Where to Sport Climb Close to Hueco Tanks
After 3 weeks bouldering in Hueco Tanks, our bodies were spent. As we planned for the next stages of our trip, people kept telling us about a sport climbing crag called Last Chance Canyon near Carlsbad, New Mexico. Though we wanted to keep driving west, the itch to sport climb got a hold of us and we headed north-east from Hueco. It turned out to be exactly what we needed after so much bouldering, and we were even conditioned for the Solstice Cave, which has super overhung climbs all the way to 14a. This place is a must-go for the next times we visit Hueco now! Here’s how to get to Last Chance Canyon and a little bit of beta for your trip here!
Btw, THIS is my Hueco Tanks gumby guide!
How to get to Last Chance Canyon
Just look for Last Chance Canyon, Carlsbad, New Mexico, and Google Maps will take you straight to where you start hiking.
What to climb?
We got on a 10d at the Solstice Cave to warmup both days we were there. It was a good route to get a feeling for the rock here. Then we got on Eternal Sunshine 12a, which people had recommended us, and it was AMAZING. After that, we tried Solstice 12d, which is kind of a thuggy jug-haul, and it was also an absolute blast. Next time we hope to get on the only 4-star route in the cave, a 13b on the other side.
The hiking!
Right where you park your car there’s a sign requesting climbers to pack their trash out (do it). From there, you can see the Solstice Cave all the way in the valley. Hike the path, keeping to the left of the hill you’re on if you ever stray off-path (you can actually see the path on Google Maps if you want a visual). It’s a hike down all the way, which means its VERY tiring on the way up. The way up takes about 45 minutes, but we didn’t time it.
The sleeping?
Last Chance Canyon is inside of Lincoln National Forest, which means you can camp for free. You’ll see a number of camping spots and fire circles right before you get to the trailhead down to the Solstice Cave, and you can stay for free up to 14 days. You also won’t see a lot of people, with we thought was perfect after Hueco.
The driving!
The last 4 miles of the drive here are a bit rough, with some spots where you’d want a little more clearance. Our Subaru Forester made it without a problem, and our friend’s Crosstrek also made it. A smaller vehicle? Maybe, if you’re a master of unpaved roads, but do it at your own risk. The point is, you don’t need 4-wheel drive, but you do want some good clearance.
Extra little bit of beta?
- It can get windy AF here, and don’t always trust the weather forecast (it deceived us).
- Its close to Sitting Bull falls, where there’s also climbing. We didn’t climb here this time around, but you could also come and just enjoy the falls and get in the water.
- Take lots of water, but there’s drinking water from a faucet right before the dirt road at the Guadalupe Rangers District.
- You can find all the beta for this climbing crag online, but we mostly used Mountain Project.
- We only visited the Solstice Cave, but there’s one area called the Mad Cow Cave, and that’s a spot we’ll be visiting next time because it sounds awesome.
