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Travel Guide

Gumby to Dirtbag – Ultimate Guide to Climbing in Hueco Tanks

Posted on March 18, 2024

Climbing in Hueco Tanks State Park

We just spent three weeks at Hueco Tanks, our first time ever. And this guide is everything you need to know for your first time there – or what we learned. You could call this a FAQ, because it answers a lot of questions WE have asked, had answered, and now are giving to you. Without further ado… this is a beginner’s guide to climbing in Hueco Tanks.

The Season:

Pretty much when everywhere else is too cold to climb. The bouldering season goes from beginning of November to end of March; pretty much the whole time the Hueco Rock Ranch is open – although I wish they’d stay open a little longer.

By early March, everyone’s saying its too hot, the Rock Ranch closes, and hot blooded Colombians are just now thawing from winter, ready to boulder in the life-giving sun. It does get WAY too windy in late March, though.

I’m writing this from a library in El Paso, hiding from 40 mph winds in the desert as I write, actually.

The rock:

Is this boring stuff? But this is why Hueco Tanks is said to be the best bouldering in the world.

The rock is a weak granite that feels to me like sandstone… but the way its been shaped by erosion across eons? Oh mama! This rock makes climbing feel like it makes sense!

Where to Stay to Climb in Hueco Tanks:

Rock Ranch: We car camped for $10 per person, and it was super worth it. You can a communal area with furniture, a cooking area, a ping pong table and lots of cool people to meet. If you choose the rooms, they cost $25 for the bunks and $45 for a private room, per person per night. They have their own cool, nicer, communal area. The Ranch is open from mid-November to mid-March.
Gleatherland: This camping location is known for being quiet and peaceful, and it’s first-come first-serve for camping, at $5 per person per night. If you’re in an RV, it costs $25 per night and you need a reservation. It gets cheaper the longer you stay, and Gleatherland is open from November to April.
The Mud Hut: This location is where the party’s at. You’ll be able to meet a lot of climbers, and it’s the closest to the entrance to Hueco Tanks. It costs $5 per night per person.
El Paso: This puts you about 20-30 minutes away from Hueco Tanks, but getting an AirBnB or hotel is always an option and may give you the comfort you need for a substantial price increase.
In the State Park: They have some campsites with water and others with electricity. Staying here puts you a bit far away from civilization, and you’re trapped in the park from 6pm to 8am every day. If you have the Texas State Park Pass, it can be a good option in terms of price, but it’s a bit limiting.

Should you make reservations?

The short answer is yes.

Only 70 people can visit the park self-guided every day. That’s why there’s are two types of people entering Hueco Tanks each day. The people with reservations, who can enter the park between 8 and 10 am (or call 915-857-1135) to hold their reservation), and those who are waiting in a line of cars on the right side of the road at the Hueco Tanks entrance, if the park’s full.

Right at 8 am every day, the first 10 people waiting in line get to enter the park immediately. From 8-10 am, those in line can get in as and if people call to cancel their reservations. At 10, all unfulfilled reservations are automatically cancelled and that number of people waiting in line get to go in. After that, if you’re in line, you have to wait for people to start exiting the park.

So…

It helps having reservations, and you can make them starting 3 months before your visit by calling (512) 389-8911. Before calling, make sure you’ve made an account for yourself on Reserve America. You can call and make a reservation for multiple people, and they all have to have accounts on Reserve America.

This is especially nice if you’re going to be climbing in Hueco Tanks for a mere week and need to be in the park by 8 am every day you have planned.

We were climbing for 3 weeks, and our plans changed based on how WRECKED our bodies were and due to the weather.

We were able to climb on days we didn’t have reservations, and it was no problem at all, especially during the week. Some days, we were able to arrive at noon and get right in; other days, we waited in line for 2 hours. One day we did NOT get in (it was a Saturday).

It’ll definitely be harder to get in without a reservation during high season and the weekends, but if you get in line SUPER early, you’ll most likely make it in.

That being said, if you have a reservation and choose to forego it, CANCEL IT so that someone in line can get in quick!

Best boulders in Hueco Tanks:

This is very subjective, obviously, but my favorite climbs were: Girls of Juarez, Stegosaur, Denizen, Free Willy, and King Cobra.

Lala’s favorite boulders were: Baby Martini, Lobster Claw, Denizen, and Girls of Juarez.

Should you get the Texas State Park Pass?

Most likely, yes. It costs $70 and whoever is in the car with you will pay $0 to get into the park. All it takes is 10 days of climbing for it to be worth it for one person. With 4 people in a car? 3 days. And it lasts a full year, so you can use it next season too if you time it right!

Tour or self-guided?

Self guided means you’ll be rock climbing on North Mountain, since all others require a guide. There is more than enough climbing on North Mountain for a lifetime, and it has the best boulders. Going on tours every day could get very pricey, but it’s worth getting to know other areas. So go on some tours, but mostly self guided!

Do you need a guidebook?

Yea, it makes it so much easier to find boulders. However, if it’s too pricey, you do get signal pretty much around the entire park or at least a stone’s throw away, so you could rely on Mountain Project or a similar app.

Fun Climbing Challenges

We met some folks at the Hueco Rock Ranch who had been climbing at Hueco Tanks State Park so long, they were making up games… and man, they had the right idea. Here’s two super fun challenges!

The Tour d’ Fours: Climb these ten V4’s in a day at Hueco Tanks, in this order (this day was spectacular) – Dab, T-bone Shuffle, Lithologic, Squirm, B-Flat, Denizen, Pudgy Pussack, Double Vision, Girls of Juarez, and Bloody Flapper. The end will haunt you. A classically sand-bagged Hueco Tanks V4. Enjoy!
Nobody Runs Out of Here Alive: Start at the pond parking and run up to Nobody Here Gets Out Alive (V2). Climb it and run all the way back down to where you started. Current record (about 6:30) and rules are in a binder in the barn at Hueco Rock Ranch.

Check out our favorite crags close to Nashville!

Travel Guide

How to Get to and What to Do in Cáqueza

Posted on November 11, 2022

If you’ve traveled to Villavicencio, you’ve passed through Cáqueza. It’s well-known on the Bogotá-Villavicencio highway as one of the best places in the country to stop to eat “piquete” (fritanga – more on that later). What not everyone knows is that Cáqueza is a 5-star destination for nature lovers, which makes sense because of its mountains, rivers and warm weather. Here’s how to get to and what to do in Cáqueza!

Everything I mention here is marked on the map below!

If you’re interested in an even more gorgeous place with colder weather, read this post on how to get to Choachi!

How to Get to Cáqueza

In public transportation:

Take a Cootranscáqueza bus from Terminal de Transporte Salitre in Bogotá. The price is below – read on for more!

In a car:

Enter “Cáqueza” in Google Maps or Waze and follow the directions.
From Bogotá, take Avenida Boyacá south, practically all the way to Cáqueza. Just stay on the main road, following the signs to Chipaque, Cáqueza and Villavicencio.
When you get to the intersection to enter Cáqueza, it’s very well signposted, and will be to the right.

What to do in Cáqueza:

Glamping

Cáqueza has a lot of glamping sites surrounded by nature. Glamping is usually best in colder climates, but the mountains and scenery around here make it an ideal place for glamorous camping.

This part of Colombia, along with Choachi and Fómeque, which are very closeby, has some of the BEST glamping we’ve seen. Click here to see them!

Hike to Cerro de Monruta and the Hanging Rock

Walking to Cerro de Monruta is like walking to Monserrate in Bogotá or the statue of the virgin in Villa de Leyva, but much easier. You reach an outlook with a gorgeous panoramic view of the town.

Right next to it is the Hanging Rock (not to be confused with the one in Ubaté), where you can take some great pictures.

Extreme Mountain Biking on the Cuchilla de Cáqueza

This place, which could translate to Razorback Ridge of Cáqueza has one of the most beautiful mountain biking trails I have ever seen. You have to ride up an unpaved road and then ride all the way down the ridge to the river.

It’s a technical descent that many cyclists come to because it is so incredible, always with the river below you… WAY below. It’s even worth coming if you’re not a cyclist.

Here’s a really cool video I found of this trail!

Eat some Grease at a Piqueteadero/Roastery

The piqueteaderos of Cáqueza are famous. Piqueteaderos are restaurants for eating fritanga, which can have any combination of beef, pork and chicken, criole potato, chorizo, blood sausage, pork rind, fried green plantains (patacones), ripe plantains, fried yucca… and more!

Eat until you’re bursting at the seams and then explore the town a bit to digest. The cathedral in this town is gigantic and beautiful, and the town is full of streets and viewpoints for walking.

Jump into the Cáqueza River

If you’re wanting to cool off, a great plan is to stop at the Waterfront of the Cáqueza River. There, you can leave your car next to the road and walk a few meters to the river for a dip. It’s a perfect plan in a very beautiful and natural environment, and I marked the place on the map below!

Other things to know:

There are a total of 2 tolls between Bogotá and Cáqueza.
The bus ticket to get here costs $9,000 Colombian pesos (less than 2 dollars).
The road to Cáqueza is in good conditions, but it can have a lot of traffic.
Make sure you take cash because a lot of stores and restaurants don’t take cards.

Travel Guide

How to get to Fómeque

Posted on November 4, 2022

Without a doubt, the most beautiful destination near Bogotá is the entire area behind its Eastern Mountain Range. The whole area that is Choachi, Fómeque and Ubaqué is in the middle of some of the most beautiful mountains we have ever seen. Plus, most of Fómeque is inside Chingaza National Natural Park! It’s a place you need to get to know because of the nature around it, and it gets bonus points because the town itself is beautiful (especially the main square – more about that below). Here’s how to get to Fómeque!

All points and routes are marked on the map below!

How to get to Fómeque

In public transportation:

It’s REALLY simple. Take a bus from the Cootransfomeque terminal in Bogotá. The address is weird: Ac. 6 #1528, but it’s on Calle 6, one block from Avenida Caracas (walking away from the mountains). I left the price below… read on!

In a car:

Write “Fómeque” in Google Maps or Waze and follow the instructions for how to get to Fómeque. In Bogota, take the Circunvalar south-bound to the Universidad Distrital, where you turn left to exit towards Choachi.
Enter Choachi and follow the map to start heading to Fómeque.

If you’re interested in Choachi too, click here to read about how to get there and more!

What to do in Fómeque:

Hike in Chingaza

Chingaza National Natural Park holds a special place in our hearts. It’s gorgeous, and too few people have been there.

It is one of Colombia’s largest National Parks. The park has entraces from the north through La Calera or from the south, through Fómeque. You’ll see a plethora of lagoons, and its mountains are awe-inspiring.

The only frustrating thing is that it can be difficult to get to some trails because of the TERRIBLE road conditions and the requirements to enter. To read more about how to get to Chingaza National Natural Park, click here!

Go Glamping

If you haven’t experienced glamping, you have to. It’s a combination of camping and glamour. It’s glamorous camping.

You usually sleep deep in the wilderness in domes or cabins made specifically for enjoying nature. The structures are almost always rustic but elegant, offer good food and often have a jacuzzi right next to them.

Click here to read about the BEST glamping near Choachi, Fómeque and even Cáqueza!

Visit Parque Jesús Maestro

Walk around the beautiful town and get to know it, but especially Jesús Maestro Park. This is the main square, and you can tell they have put some love into it because it’s a beauty. Green is how I would describe it, and the town’s cathedral is imposing and attractive.

The square and its surroundings are the perfect place to have a small town lunch, whether you’re passing through Fómeque or it’s your destination.

Try Artisan Beer

Fómeque has a craft brewery known for its beautiful bottles with Colombian animals, such as the jaguar and the spectacled bear.

Stop by for a refreshing drink and support a cool local business!

To see more activities in Fómeque, here’s a link to the official tourist brochure of the Mayor’s Office of Fómeque.

Other things to know:

There are 0 tolls from Bogotá to Fómeque.
The bus ticket to Fómeque costs $13,000 Colombian pesos (about 3 dollars).
After Choachi, the road is still paved, but not in a great condition.
Take cash for paying in lots of stores and restaurants that don’t accept cards payments.

Travel Guide

The 9 BEST Glamping Close to Choachi

Posted on October 29, 2022

Glamping just isn’t the same without a spectacular view. That’s why there are SO MANY sites for glamping near Choachi – it’s one of Colombia’s most spectacular destinations, with its mountains and valleys. These are the 9 BEST sites for glamping close to Choachi for you to visit! (I saved the best for last!)

No one paid us to make this list – it’s based on my research to go get to know these places, and it’s so you don’t have to search. Having said that, all of these glamping sites cost between $200,000 and $400,000 Colombian pesos a night (40-80 dollars) depending on the season.

All glamping sites are marked on the map at the end of the entry.

Glamping Close to Choachi

First, to learn how to get to Choachi, you can read this post!

Refugio Explora Verde

This is a hostel that also happens to have some Swiss style cabins. The cabins look comfortable and warm, but they don’t have much space except for sleeping. The whole hostel is rustic Colombian style (everything is made of brick). One of the best things they have is an elevated net between the trees where you can appreciate the scenery.

Colombia Mountain Tours

This is a large, but covered dome, that’s very accessible because it’s close to the road. It’s just off the main road to Choachi towards Parque Aventura La Chorrera. It looks big, has lots of living space and includes a very nice kitchen. It has a view towards La Chorrera, but from very far away.

Glamping Bonaire

This site has a dome and a normal rectangular room, both of which are well apart, and both have a whole lot of transparent walls and windows. The dome has a Jacuzzi, but I think the room looks nicer, so deciding where to stay might be tough. The view from Glamping Bonaire is beautiful. This destination is kind of far from Bogota, beyond Fómeque.

Glamping Fomeque Valto

This place looks elegant and beautiful, although I would say it’s a bit too manicured for my taste. I prefer glamping sites made of wood that blend in well with the nature around it. This one is designed slightly differently and even has a small fence around the glamping. It does have an incredible view, though, and a jacuzzi. I know people will love this place.

El Cielo Glamping

This glamping consists of several large wooden Swiss style cabins, VERY nice. It’s located near Cáqueza. It also has a jacuzzi, and the view from the cabin’s extended platform and the bed itself is amazing. Because of the area’s classic weather, it can be sunny or cloudy at dawn – both have their magic vibe.

La Granja Tacuara

This is where the glamping close to Choachi starts getting crazy! Here, you get a spectacular view of the mountains. The cabins are SO nice, all made of lots of wood and with big windows, and it feels very deep into nature. It has hot tubs, elevated nets and places to make campfires. The only problem is that it’s quite far from Bogota, beyond Cáqueza. But I would say it’s worth the trip.

Glamping Cúspide

This glamping is beautiful, rustic (lots of wood) and elegant. Of all the photos of glamping in Choachi I have seen, I think it has the most beautiful view. Also, it is VERY close to Choachi. It has domes and Swiss style cabins, and I liked them because they look spacious, so you can spend time at the lodge, not just sleeping.

Monte Luna Glamping

I think this glamping close to Choachi is the one we would go to first. And I’ll tell you why: there’s only a single dome on the property, and it overlooks the highest waterfall in Colombia – La Chorrera. The dome looks gorgeous, and it’s more spacious than many of the ones I’ve seen because it has some extensions on the sides.

Horeb Glamping

This place looks like the perfect glamping site, and it has a spectacular view. It’s almost next to Choachi, but very high up on the mountain. The coolest thing about it is that you can wake up above the clouds. They have domes here, and, of all the domes I saw, I liked these the most because they have a ton of windows for gazing at the sky and the gorgeous landscape. The only thing I would change about the site is have more trees.

Well, now it’s time to save up to be able to go to one of these sites for glamping close to Choachi! I’m hoping to go with Lala soon… maybe for an anniversary, but don’t tell her anything!

To learn how to get to Choachi, click here!

Travel Guide

The PERFECT trip to Sarasota, Florida (my experience)

Posted on October 26, 2022

One of the things I’m looking forward to most in life is taking my wife, Lala, on the PERFECT trip to Sarasota, Florida. To me, Sarasota means vacation. My grandad and grandma lived there, and we visited every chance we got. I want to show Lala the things I’ve loved doing there my whole life. Call it a trip down memory lane, making new memories. Due to visa issues, we haven’t been able to make this a reality, but I’ve been dreaming of it for a while now. So this is what we’re going to do in Sarasota, Florida soon, and my personal recommendation for you!

I marked everything I talk about on a map at the end of this post!

Go here to read about a pristine island on the Caribbean coast of Colombia.

What to do in Sarasota

Eat at The Old Salty Dog
Paddle Board through the Lido Mangrove Tunnels
Go to Mote Marine Laboratory
Enjoy the Sunrise AND Sunset at Siesta Key
Look for Coquinas on Long Boat Key
Fill your Belly at St. Armand’s Circle
Go for a Run from Morton’s, across the Bridge and Back

Eat at The Old Salty Dog

Of course my first recommendation is food. You probably won’t find this recommendation anywhere else, especially not as #1 on the list.

The Old Salty Dog is probably my favorite restaurant in the entire world. I have some amazing memories here, and my grandad loved it. The restaurant is right on the water, and it has that rustic feeling of regulars having to brush the dirt off their boots at the entrance. The food is great and the view is pristine.

I’ve actually only ever had the fish & chips with rootbeer, and what can I say? I 100% recommend it. I only ever go to The Old Salty Dog on vacation, which isn’t often, so I always have to stick to the tradition. I have been with others who have ordered different meals, and everything has been delicious (especially the lobster roll). Go to The Old Salty Dog located at 1601 Ken Thompson Pkwy.

Paddle Board through the Lido Mangrove Tunnels

I only did this once, but it was one of the greatest experiences I’ve ever had. You see, I’m from Colombia (South America), and everything here is kind of hard to do. You want to go hike? Book a tour. You have your own kayak? Still need a guide.

At Ted Sperling Nature Park on Lido Key, you can simply drive up to the Kayak Launch and Parking. If you have a kayak or paddleboard, just put it in the water and you’re free to enjoy a gorgeous trip through mangroves. If you don’t have one, you can rent a kayak or paddleboard right there and head out!

To get to the mangrove tunnels, just go right from the launch area. You get lots of shade while you’re in the tunnels, and you may just get lucky and see a manatee. Dolphins also show up pretty often! Then, you can head left from the launch area to go around a small island that, when I visited, had hundreds of birds on it. The whole experience is just spectacular!

Keep in mind: rental companies will charge for the whole day even if you’ll only be there a few hours.

Go to Mote Marine Laboratory

Right across from The Old Salty Dog is Mote Marine Laboratory & Aquarium. This place and diving with my dad filled my childhood with a love for the ocean and life underwater. The aquarium is just too much fun.

So, obviously, I recommend you go enjoy it. What I remember most about the aquarium is being able to pet manta rays, seeing sharks and turtles up close, and putting a quarter into a machine that turned it into a Mote Marine Laboratory and Aquarium souvenir. It’s perfect for kids, but, as an adult myself, I can say I’ll be going and marveling at everything is has to show.

And my favorite part of all: the preserved giant squid they have at the aquarium. There’s just something about seeing an animal so mysterious that it’s only been caught on camera a couple times.

Check out all their exhibits by clicking here! They open every day from 9:30 a.m. to 5 p.m. except for Thanksgiving, when they close at 2 p.m.

Enjoy the Sunrise AND Sunset at Siesta Key

Siesta Key is said to be the #1 best beach in the United States. I can see why! Its white sand is ACTUALLY white, all quartz sand. You walk through some beautiful underbrush on wooden bridges onto the warm sand that never gets too hot because, again, its white. Then you have to walk a good way to the water, which is shallow and gorgeous.

Here’s my tip: get up early and head to a McDonalds drive-thru for an egg McMuffin and a coffee. Head over to Siesta Beach with some foldable chairs and gaze over the water as the sun rises. When my family went to Siesta Beach for sunrise, I can still picture my grandma painting in her chair and my mom reading in her chair as us kids did what kids do on the beach. The point is, relish in the early morning wind (it might get chilly) and enjoy. Once it gets warm enough for you, get in the water and… you guessed it… keep enjoying.

After a nice early morning beach trip, get on with your activities for the day. Good thing you’re reading what to do in Sarasota.

At about 5, head back over to the beach. Some of my best memories were a summer 5k run at 5 p.m. right on the beach, where we’d spend hours eating, swimming and jogging. The shadows start getting long and it’s the perfect temperature for some exercise and then a dip in the water. Take some food, rest your soul in the warm temps, and watch the colorful clouds and gorgeous sunset over the waves.

Look for Coquinas on Long Boat Key

Another absolutely amazing beach nearby is on Longboat Key. It never gets as crowded as Siesta Beach because it almost seems like it’s not open to the public (I marked the access point on the map below). The sand here isn’t white, but it’s beautiful and has thousands of little shells in it.

My greatest memories here include jogging with my dad, making sand castles and looking for coquina clams in the sand.

Coquinas are called the jewels of the seaside because they’re small and radiantly colorful. What you do is you get close to the water and dig a shallow hole in the sand with one brush of your hand. The coquina clams are right there under the surface, and they immediately start digging back under the sand. And that’s what we did – uncover them over and over again to watch them hurriedly hide away. You’ll probably also see thousands of them digging in where waves wash some sand away right by the water’s edge.

Fill your Belly at St. Armand’s Circle

You can’t write a blog on what to do in Sarasota and not include St. Armand’s Circle. This is a VERY touristy area full of restaurants, shopping and bars. It’s always vibrant, and every store here will easily catch your eye. I haven’t spent much time in St. Armand’s Circle because of how touristy it is and how crowded it can get, and we usually avoid that. However, I absolutely recommend you have a lunch or dinner here, because everything is delicious.

But most of all, go to Kilwins, which is like a tiny version of Charlie and the Chocolate Factory, but for ice cream. When I go with Lala, we’re gonna get an enormous cone and walk around St. Armand’s Circle.

Go for a Run from Morton’s, across the Bridge and Back (if you can)

I saved this one for last because it means going on a 10 kilometer run, but it’s honestly one of my favorite things to do in Sarasota. Jogging is one of my favorite things to do in Sarasota, actually. It’s where I started loving to run, going out in the heat with my dad.

My favorite route is from Morton’s Gourmet Market down to Orange Avenue, towards downtown Sarasota, along the side of the bay and across the John Ringling Causeway and BACK. The heat can get to you, especially when, for some reason, we would always head out to run at midday. I know, terrible idea. But we enjoyed the heat and the sweat.

The route is on the map below!

Now that you know what to do in Sarasota, Florida, I hope you have the PERFECT trip to Sarasota! This is very much catered to myself, but I’m sure there are some nuggets of gold among all my anecdotes. If you do any of these things, let me know in the comments! I’d love to read how it went for you and talk about it!

If you’d like to read about a gorgeous Colombian island for vacationing, click here!

Travel Guide

How to Get to Las Lajas Sanctuary

Posted on September 30, 2022

Is it worth your while to drive to the middle of nowhere to see an imposing architectural and historic wonder towering over a gorgeous river? The answer is absolutely yes, although I also have to say the experience isn’t quite as magical as other travel bloggers make it seem. Though Las Lajas Sanctuary is everything they say it is, you’d definitely have to squint a little to ignore some of the negative sides of it, which is relentless crowds (we went on an average Thursday morning) and the gray, disorganized mass tourism infrastructure around the cathedral. That being said, the trip is still worth your while for a foray into culture, history and nature, all at the same time! This is how to get to Las Lajas Sanctuary in Nariño, Colombia.

Want to read about one of our favorite places in Colombia? Click here!

How to get to Las Lajas Sanctuary

I’ve marked all the places and some directions in this travel guide in the map at the end of this post!

If you’re driving, look up “Las Lajas Sanctuary” Google Maps or Waze and follow the directions (there’s 1 toll between Pasto and Ipiales).

If you’ve decided to take a taxi, at what I’d consider an unnecessarily steep price, they’ll take you and some will even work as your guides for a day trip. Finding someone who will do this isn’t exactly straightforward, but if you ask around at your hotel, friends or someone trustworthy, pretty much everyone will know someone who offers this service.

If public transportation is your method of choice (probably a good idea because its inexpensive and easy), here’s what you need to know.

From Pasto:

Take a bus from the bus terminal in Pasto to Ipiales (costs $15,000 pesos, or 3.3 dollars).
Take a bus from the bus terminal in Ipiales straight to the parking lot of Las Lajas (costs $2,500 pesos, or half a dollar).

From Ecuador:

Take a bus from the Quito bus terminal (or any other) towards Tulcán, which is on the border with Colombia.
If the bus doesn’t take you straight to the border (a location called Puente Internacional de Rumichaca), take a quick taxi ride from Tulcán to the border.
Once you’ve made it into Colombia, you can either take another quick taxi ride straight to the Las Lajas Sanctuary or grab a bus to Ipiales and then grab another bus to Las Lajas Sanctuary.

Buses will take you back to Ipiales from Las Lajas Sanctuary until 9 p.m.

Watch this video!

What to do at Las Lajas Sanctuary:

Now that you know how to get to Las Lajas Sanctuary, here’s what we think is worth your while to do!

Take advantage and walk!

Since you made it all the way out here, you might as well view the cathedral from every possible vantage point! From my memory, I believe there are 5 or 6 different lookouts with amazing views of the cathedral, the waterfall (yep, there’s a waterfall) and the river below. It ends up being a lot of uphill walking, and being 2,900 meters (almost 10,000 feet) above sea level doesn’t help.

Paseo de olla.

This is an EXTREMELY Colombian tradition, where families will travel out of the city, usually on Sunday, taking a pot (olla in Spanish) full of potatoes, onion, spices, hen, plantain and other delicacies with them. Paseo de olla translates to pot trip. Families will usually cook everything at their destination. At Las Lajas Sanctuary, you can buy one of these pots full of traditional Colombian food and eat on some stumps while you look up at the giant cathedral.

Visit the inexpensive museum and the inside of the cathedral.

I’m not usually a museum guy, but since it cost $3,000 pesos (66 cents), we gave it a try and it was worth it. The inside of the cathedral is also amazing.

Ride the Cable Car.

On your way to Las Lajas Sanctuary, I recommend you tell the bus driver you’ll be getting off at the cable cars. That way, you can arrive at the Sanctuary with style, enjoying the view of the entire canyon and cathedral from WAY above. It’s also a good idea because then, when you’re ready to leave, you can walk up to the buses and taxis through a gorgeous walkway with traditional foods and souvenirs jam-packed on either side of you all the way there.

The cable car ride costs $10,000 pesos (2.2 dollars) one way and $16,000 pesos (3.5 dollars) there and back. The price goes up on weekends and holidays, to $12,000 pesos one way and $20,000 roundtrip.

Crossing the Border

Whether you’re entering or exiting Colombia, the key word is patience. You never know what you’re going to find at the border. It could be a pristine day and a quick process, or it may take you hours to get a stamp on your passport. This could be due to protests going on in Colombia or Ecuador, or because of Venezuelans migrating to-and-fro. Just wait it out and you’ll be on your way!

Click here to read a little bit about this place’s history!

Travel Guide

How to Get to La Valvanera in Chía

Posted on August 12, 2022

If you’re looking for a hike that’s a lot like Monserrate, but not as crowded, the hike to La Valvanera Chapel is the one for you. It’s not in Bogota, but in a town right outside the city called Chía. The hike is easy, but nice and steep at some points. There are also two bike trails, one on a road up to the chapel and a mountain biking trail to get down the mountain. This is how to get to La Valvanera.

Check out the map at the bottom of the post for a visual guide!

How to get to La Valvanera in Chía

In Public Transportation (check out the map because getting around Chia can be a little confusing):

If you’re in Bogota, head to Portal Norte (marked on the map below) and take a Flota Chia almost all the way to the Chia Transportation Terminal. This costs $3,500 Colombian pesos.
Get off right before the terminal at Calle 11 – you can tell the driver and they’ll drop you off there.
Walk on Calle 11 all the way until it ends, staying on its weird turns, and passing a bridge that goes over a small but beautiful creek.
If you’re hiking, go left where Calle 11 ends and take the first road to the right. A little to the right of where this new road ends, after some shops where you can buy some treats, you’ll see a big sign, which is the trailhead for the hike up to La Valvanera Chapel.
If you’re biking, go right where Calle 11 ends and take the first road to the left. If you stay on this road, you’re pretty much on the bike route. So keep going straight when you get to an intersection and you’ll start the climb up. At the first definite Y in the road, take a left, and then take the middle road at the middle intersection, where there’s a sign towards the La Valvanera Chapel. This is the longest and least steep bike route.
There are two steeper bike rides coming from the other side of the Chapel, and doing all of them on the same trip is a great idea! I’ve marked all of them on the map below.

In a car: Enter “Parqueadero MTB Chia Valvanera” into Google Maps or Waze and follow the directions. This is where you can park, and the hike starts by the mountainside where you see a big sign.

To read about another hike literally IN Bogota, click here!

What to do at La Valvanera:

Like I said before, you can either bike or hike up to the Chapel. Enjoy some wonderful nature while you work those lungs. The hike is half a kilometer long, or about 0.34 miles. There are actually 3 bike routes, from 1 to 2.7 kilometers long, and the shortest one is STEEP. There’s also a gnarly mountain biking descent route.
Have a picnic at the top. You can either take some food and eat on the grass by the Chapel or buy some delicious traditional Colombian food at the restaurant at the top.
As long as you’re in Chia, I’d like to recommend two of my favorite restaurants: El Galápago Campestre, for some huge burgers or amazing steaks, and La Magola, for some of the best Colombian bread (pandeyuca and almojabana) and a fermented rice drink called masato.

Some things to know:

Is it safe? Definitely, if you go in the morning, and even more so on the weekends, because you’ll be surrounded by other like-minded hikers and bikers. It can be a little more lonesome in the afternoon, but still safe. At night, it may or not be unsafe, like any place in Colombia, so just go in the morning!

Going up to La Valvanera Chapel is free.

This hike is pet-friendly.

Take really good care of this area. Not that this doesn’t apply to everywhere you go, but the area is actually an indigenous reserve. Don’t risk everyone’s access to this gorgeous spot by littering or being disrespectful.

To see the biking and hiking routes beforehand, I suggest you search for them on Strava. I’ll link you to the most popular bike route, which is the 2 km one, to see distance, altitude, height gained, etc.

Thanks for making it this far! I’d really appreciate it if you watched the YouTube video above to get a feel for the hike. Happy exploring!

Travel Guide

Everything you Need to Know to Summit Nevado Santa Isabel

Posted on August 9, 2022

If you’ve read our blogs before, you know we prefer doing things on our own. We’re also aware it’s not always possible, and summiting Nevado Santa Isabel is one of those times. I wrote this blog to give you information, from our experience, on how to summit Nevado Santa Isabel – all the way from getting ready, to finding a good guide, to reaching the peak. (Check out our video at the end of this post!)

How to get to Nevado Santa Isabel

Fly or drive to Pereira or Manizales, the two closest cities.

From there, your driver and guide will take care of everything else. The road in Parque los Nevados is absolutely terrible for about 3 hours, so you need a hardcore 4×4 to get to the hike. Entrance to the national park is restricted to certified guiding agencies only.

Guide Services

A quick Google search will get you a myriad of contacts for guide companies ranging from 600,000 to 800,000 Colombian pesos per person (USD 150 to 200).

We chose Montañas Colombianas. It worked out perfectly and, to our surprise, they were on time for eveything, which is saying a lot in Colombia. They’re on the more expensive side, but it was worth it. There’s a saying in Colombia: “Lo barato sale caro” or “cheap now, costly later,” but actually more like “you get what you pay for.” That’s definitely the case with Montañas de Colombia.

Two things to keep in mind: the more people you go with, the less it’ll cost. We went with 2 others, and we loved that group size of 4. It made it a little more affordable, and it’s a good group size for some bonding over an adventure. Then, all that’s left is to choose a date. The season with the least rain is December through March, but there may be no snow on the way up to the glacier (since no rain = no snow). We got extremely lucky and got a perfect day with LOTS of snow on the summit while we hiked up to it. Once we got to the snow line, the sky was blue and it was the perfect day. I’ll link the video below if you want to watch it!

Our training to summit the mountain

We trained very informally for this hike because, truly, anyone can do it. Still, we wanted to be over prepared. This hike actually gets you to a nice elevation, to the point where you could get mild altitude sickness. So, to lower the possibility of that happening, we went on some hikes in Bogota. I think it also helped that facemasks were mandatory at the time, so we also had restricted oxygen!

Living in Bogota will help you train for hiking Nevado Santa Isabel, since you’re already starting at a high elevation. You can go enjoy some hikes, such as Monserrate, Quebrada la Vieja, Matarredonda or La Valvanera in Chia. All of those are links you can click to find out how to get there!

What gear do you need?

This is a part that got a little expensive for us. You do need some proper gear for this hike, as it’s kind of technical, quite steep and the weather is ever-changing. Getting water-proof clothes is super important, mostly because if you get wet you may have to turn back due to the cold and possible hypothermia. You don’t want your clothes to hold you back from summiting Nevado Santa Isabel!

We decided to buy the minimum gear we needed because it’s high quality stuff that we’re going to use in our lives and is probably going to last a long time. It’s already paid off, so it was a worthwhile investment! We bought Quechua products from Decathlon because they have a wide range of prices for beginner to pro gear, and it’s all good.

Gear we bought to hike Nevado Santa Isabel:

Waterproof Jacket
Waterproof Pants
Waterproof Boots
Waterproof Gloves
Fleece sweater (dries quickly)
Quick-drying shirt

Gear we didn’t buy because we had or borrowed it:

30-40L backpack, waterbottle, sun lotion, head lamps, sun glasses (UV 400 filter), dry bags.

Recommended gear we didn’t actually use:

Fleece hat, first aid kit with thermal blanket, wool socks.

There’s also some gear you really shouldn’t buy because its only for hiking in the snow or technical ice climbing, and there’s not a lot of that in Colombia. Make sure your guide service includes the following gear in their price:

Crampons
Helmet
Gaiters
Ice axes (piolets)
Trekking poles

Where to Stay

This is another thing you don’t have to worry about. You also won’t be camping or anything, since this is a one-day hike. Hidden in a location only the gnarliest of 4×4’s can reach is a gorgeous hostel. It’s called Refugio el Cisne and it has warm water and WiFi. It only has space heaters, and they’re on a schedule, so it is pretty cold. But it’s gorgeous and the beds and blankets are SO warm. A huge plus is that the meals are big and absolutely delicious. This is where you’ll stay after the first acclimation hike for one night before getting up at 1 a.m. for your summit attempt.

How to summit Nevado Santa Isabel

For those of you who, like me, like knowing what you’re getting into in detail, this is what your 2-day trip might look like based on our experience:

Day 1, 5 a.m.: the 4×4 picks you up from Pereira or Manizales (or Santa Rosa de Cabal, but you can’t get here directly on a plane) for a bumpy 5-6 hour ride into the mountains. The ride includes a delicious breakfast stop.
11 a.m.: acclimation hike to Laguna Verde. The idea is for you to get used to the altitude (over 4,000 meters or 13,000 feet) and for the guide to see how well off you are to set the pace for the following day. The hike is gorgeous.
4 p.m.: lunch at the hostel
5 p.m.: equipment and safety workshop on how to put on and use crampons, ice axe and gaiters.
6:30 p.m.: dinner
8 p.m.: well-deserved bedtime

Day 2, 1 a.m.: wake up time and final preparation.
1:30 a.m.: quick breakfast and get into the 4×4 to the trailhead
3 a.m.: the hike begins (ideal time to summit is 6 hours, and then 3 back down, which is about what it looked like for us).
6 a.m.: sunrise and a view of Nevado del Ruiz.
8 a.m.: arrival at the snow line and putting on your ice climbing gear for the final push to the summit!
9 a.m.: summit!
12 noon: back at the trailhead for some food, celebration and the road back to Pereira or Manizales.
** For an additional price, you can stop by the hot springs close to Santa Rosa de Cabal, but you have to book that ahead of time.

Watch this video of our experience – it was truly one of the best times of our lives! Now you know how to summit Nevado Santa Isabel, I hope you do it!

Travel Guide

How to get to Quebrada la Vieja

Posted on July 6, 2022

The mountains to the east of Bogota are a unique place right outside the big city. You’re close to the city, but the cool air enters your nose like you’re in the backwoods of who-know-where. All the hikes on Bogota’s mountain range were closed for a few years because they were over-used. Thankfully, they reopened in 2022, although with more restrictions. You have to reserve a spot online and have until about 9:30 am to reach the top of the hike. This all makes for a nicer hike with less crowds. And let me tell you – the amount of people you could find here on a Sunday before the restrictions was CRAZY! Find out how to get to Quebrada la Vieja, make your reservation and more by reading on!

How to get to Quebrada la Vieja:

You can find the map to get to Quebrada la Vieja at the bottom of this post!

Walking:

Get on a Transmilenio to get to the Calle 72 station and walk straight towards the mountains.
On Calle 72, you’ll find the trailhead with a big sign. You’ll still be among the buildings, but on top of a little creek. Follow the trail.
When the trail puts you back on the pavement, keep walking towards the mountain. When you get to the Circunvalar road, or Carrera 2 Este, you have to cross it underneath through a sketchy-looking tunnel. Exit the tunnel and the real trailhead will be right above.
Start hiking and a few minutes in they’ll ask you for your reservation and point you in the right direction. Eventually, tou’ll get to a large clearing. If you continue on the trail towards the left, you can get to a lookout with a statue of a Virgin. If you continue on the trail towards the right and keep going, you can get to a lookout with a cross.

In a car:

To be honest, it’s best to get to Quebrada la Vieja from the Transmilenio or in an Uber.

If Ubering, type in this address and you’re good: Quebrada La Vieja, Cl. 71, Bogotá.

If you do head over in a car:

The closest parking garage is called Park Elite on Calle 72 close to Carrera 7 (I know, that probably means nothing to you, so it’s marked on the map below).
Walk up Calle 72 towards the mountains, eventually walking along a little creek and through a sketchy tunnel. The trailhead will be there right after the tunnel.
Start hiking and a few minutes in they’ll ask you for your reservation and point you in the right direction. Eventually, you’ll get to a large clearing. If you continue on the trail towards the left, you can get to a lookout with a statue of a Virgin. If you continue on the trail towards the right and keep going, you can get to a lookout with a cross.

Is it safe?

During the hours Quebrada la Vieja is open to the public, there are officials spread out across the hike to help make it safe and a police officer at Claro de la Luna. So yes, it is safe!

Watch this video to see Quebrada la Vieja for yourself! It’s hard to believe this is INSIDE Bogotá..

How to make a reservation:

Go to https://gme.acueducto.com.co/visitas/
Click on any of the Quebrada la Vieja options. I recommend La Virgen or Alto de la Cruz because Claro de la Luna is an intermediate option from where you can go left to La Virgen or right towards Alto de la Cruz. The “Paramo” option is a longer hike but is usually not available.
Fill out the information and you’re good to go! You have to show your reservation when you get there.

Some things to know:

There is no entrance fee for the Quebrada la Vieja trail.
Pets are not allowed on the trail.
The trail is open Tuesday to Friday from 5:00 to 9:00 am and Weekends from 6:00 to 11:00 am. It’s not open on Mondays and, if the Monday is a holiday, it won’t be open on Tuesday.
The hike to the Virgin is 1.3 km and 1.7 km to the Cross.
You’re only allowed to go to one lookout per visit, so if you want to get to know the Virgin and the Cross, you’ll have to go two separate days.
If you have any questions, write to me on Instagram!

What to do at Quebrada la Vieja:

Have a breakfast picnic while you gaze at Bogota from above.

Take care of your surroundings: people sometimes damage beauty while they try to enjoy it; please try not to! One of the amazing things about Quebrada la Vieja is how wild it feels even though you’re literally minutes from one of the world’s most populated cities. Let’s keep it that way.

Take pictures of towering eucalyptus and pine trees, the morning sun rays splitting the air, the cold morning air visibly entering and exiting your lungs, and Bogota, much smaller from above.

Interested in getting to know the outdoors close to Bogota? I recommend you check out Choachi and all there is to do around there!

Travel Guide

6 Fun Facts about Colombia’s Snowy Mountains

Posted on February 6, 2022

Also called Nevados, there are only a few of them left. You may be thinking, “Snow in COLOMBIA?!” Well, yea… but more than snow, glaciers. And instead of boring you with a ton of information and bad news about Colombia’s melting glaciers, I thought it would be more fun to give you some fun facts about Colombia’s snowy mountains:

General things to think about:

Part of Colombia is right on the equator, so the weather is proportionally warmer at the same altitude as anywhere further north or south. To really help you understand this, I’ll tell you a story. I hiked around the glacier on Mt. Baker in Washington State a few years ago in shorts because it was August. The summit of Mt Baker is at 3,200 meters. Now, you have to climb to about 4,800 meters to see any snow in Colombia! So if you think about it, if Colombia were further north or south, it would have snow EVERYWHERE!
There used to be snow on Monserrate and all of the mountains above Bogota! Of course, this was like 30,000 years ago, but its really fun to think about!
In the 20th century, there were 14 snowy peaks in Colombia, among which were some well-known places like Puracé and El Cumbal. Now there’s only 6 of them!

More specific fun facts:

Nevado Santa Isabel is set to lose its glacier by the end of the decade. Actually, it currently has less than 1 square kilometer of snow on it. It is currently Colombia’s lowest, most accesible summit with snow. I think its worth paying it a visit!
Summiting Cocuy is not allowed right now because of a scandal! Back in 2017, a video came out of people “playing soccer” on the summit. It caused an uproar and the local indigenous people closed access and destroyed the road. But that video was just the needle that broke the camel’s back. The real reason was a lack of respect for such a treasure – a treasure that also happens to be diminishing a little too quickly. Was the reaction a little much? Maybe. I think something could be worked out for everyone’s benefit.
Throughout history, there has been an ongoing debate as to which one of the Sierra Nevada’s peaks is the tallest one. The consensus right now is that Cristobal Colon is the highest, just a few meters above Simon Bolivar. But from what I’ve read, no one’s 100% sure yet. Goes to show how much attention Colombia pays its glaciers.

If you read until here, you must really be interested in Colombia’s snowy peaks! I hope you enjoyed these fun facts about Colombia’s snowy mountains.

We’re planning on summiting as many as we can, just for the fun of it. I’ve always wanted to because I felt like they were a national treasure that will soon be no more. There’s a sort of appeal to that. We’ll be making videos about our summit project, so if you’d like to support us, head over to our YouTube and subscribe! Can’t wait! WOOOOOOOOOOO

You may like to read: How to Get to Choachi

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