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Travel Guide

What to do in Puerto Leguizamo

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I thought we were going to the middle of nowhere. And… we were! But in the middle of nowhere is a town that is a lot more developed and booming than you’d think, being in the south of Colombia in the Amazon rain forest… in Puerto Leguizamo, Putumayo. We got there and there were hotels, restaurants, touristy activities, adventure tourism, and just a lot to DO! And the beauty of the town – oh my goodness. Built on the edge of the Putumayo river, you can expect gorgeous sunsets every day. Puerto Leguizamo is the place to travel in Colombia in 2018, so this is for you to get to know a little more about this place, so you can go and so that, and this is a beautiful thing about tourism, Puerto Leguizamo and its people may thrive. So here’s what to do in Puerto Leguizamo!

Before we start, though, I want to talk a little bit about BeAncestro. Their mission is for the town to thrive off the natural and cultural tourism the town has to offer. We love what they stand for and would love to see it boom, so give Tati a call when you visit Puerto Leguizamo! Her phone number is: (+57) 310-419-8115. You can also message them on Facebook!

What to do in Puerto Leguizamo

  • Sunset on the Bongo: the most popular spot to watch the sunset is on the bongo. The bongo is a yellow floating box of metal that allows you to stand on the river, instead of on its tree-covered edge. Word is the bongo is also a very popular place to ask someone to be your boy/girlfriend.
  • Swim in lagoons: swimming in the Putumayo river can be pretty dangerous because of its strong current, but swimming in lagoons that feed the river is safe and so refreshing. Being in the middle of the Amazon is a unique experience, and one of the best parts of swimming in these lagoons is that it can only be done with permission from the local tribes. You feel like you’re being included in something special, and so it is.
  • Meet the world’s biggest freshwater fish: only a 30 minute hike from Puerto Leguizamo will take you to Don Zuleta’s farm, where you can meet and feed a specimen of the world’s largest freshwater fish – a Pirarucu named Barrabas. Don Zuleta considers it his child. A 2.3 meter, 150 kilogram (7.5 feet, 330 pounds) child. Don Zuleta actually farms these wonderful creatures, attempting to educate people about fishing this endangered species. His idea is that if people want the fish for their meat, which is said to be the best in the world, they can go get the meat at farms instead of killing the fish in the wild. Don Zuleta also wants people to understand that these animals aren’t dangerous, as Discovery and other TV channels have portrayed it to be. They have small throats, so they only eat small fish. The Pirarucus are like children!
  • Survive in the Jungle: The Rock, in Jumanji, has nothing on Don Zuleta. He’s a true Amazonian badass. He’ll teach you how to survive in the jungle during the day… and at night!
  • Find Exotic Birds: the Amazon rain forest is a birdwatcher’s heaven. We went out on a rainy morning, saw hundreds of birds and monkeys, and were then told it had been a pretty inactive morning. I can only imagine what it must be like when the birds and monkeys are out and about instead of hiding from the rain! Birdwatchers in the area identified 215 birds, of the 1,486 birds identified in Colombia during the Global Big Day event. The birdwatching around Puerto Leguizamo is ridiculously incredible.
  • See Pink Dolphins: you know, there are few places in the world where you can see Pink Dolphins, and Puerto Leguizamo is one of them. Only about 20 minutes from town along the river, we found a bunch of them and watched them show us their fins and catch their food.
  • Get to know indigenous cultures: the wealth of indigenous cultures around Puerto Leguizamo is one of the main reasons you should visit the town. BeAncestro considers it one of their main focuses: it’s even in their name – ancestro, which means ancestor – and rightly so, since the indigenous culture of the Amazon is so foreign to most people, but also something we all should know more about. You’ll learn about mambe, which is a coca leaf powder they ingest like chewing tobacco, watch traditional dances, eat traditional foods (casabe and fish), and can get to know them personally.
  • Go to La Paya National Park: we sadly didn’t get to go to this national park, but we heard it’s THE park for birdwatching. You can also see monkeys, jaguars, boas, and much, much more.
  • Drink juices at the Galeria: one of my (Eric’s) favorite meals was a breakfast where we drank juice and ate fried stuff. But the winner there was the juice. In the main square there’s a small indoor plaza where people go to eat and buy groceries. Ask for the guy who makes juices and then indulge! When my dad and I travel together we occasionally have a meal of only juices if we find spectacular juices. This place 147% makes the cut for a juice meal.

If you call Tati, from BeAncestro, you’ll do a lot of these activities depending on how long you’re there. Let her know what sounds best to you!

How to get there:

In a plane: your two options are to fly to Puerto Asis and make a connection to Puerto Leguizamo or fly to Florencia and make a connection to Puerto Leguizamo. The only airline that flies to Puerto Leguizamo is Satena.

In a boat: you can ride a boat to Puerto Leguizamo from Puerto Asis or Florencia, but it’s better to just fly in.

Some things to know:

Once a very dangerous region of Colombia, Puerto Leguizamo now, I can with certainty, is ridiculously safe. You can walk around with camera equipment or valuable items and nothing will happen, and Leguizamenios are proud of that fact.

Just to reiterate, Tati’s phone number is: (+57) 310-419-8115. Call her and she’ll give you a tour of a lifetime.

Get the yellow fever vaccine 10 days before your trip. If you’re in Bogota, you can get vaccinated for free at the airport. There were no cases of yellow fever in Colombia in 2017, but it’s best to be safe.

Even if you were vaccinated, take bug spray. There are many, many insects that want to suck your blood in the Amazon Rainforest.

Make sure you drink bottled water. Really, this tip applies to any town or city in Colombia other than Bogota.

The rainy season is from March to July.

Take a camera. Obviously!! Puerto Leguizamo is one of the most photogenic places I’ve ever been. Part of that may be because there are no roads to the town, which have kept it from crowds of tourists. Let’s hope it stays that way… take care of it when you go!

 

Are you going to be in Bogota for some time? Here’s a list of places to go while you’re there!

Travel Guide

How to get to Isla Fuerte

How to get to Isla Fuerte, caribbean, scuba diving, adventure, isla fuerte ecolodge

The ocean, scuba diving, food, and hammocks. Those are the 4 things that come to mind when I think of Isla Fuerte.

I’ve had the privilege of visiting scuba diving destinations since I was young because my dad is a Scuba Instructor. One of those places is Isla Fuerte.

The ocean and the diving in Isla Fuerte are spectacular. The visibility underwater is almost always great. You can go on beautiful dives 5 minutes from the coast on a boat, you can dive a wreck, and even dive at a reef an hour away from the island in the open ocean.

From the time you place foot on Isla Fuerte you get pampered, especially with the food. The time of arrival is always right before lunch and the initial surprise at how good the food is never fades. In fact, what I know I will miss most every time I leave Isla Fuerte is the food.

And the hammocks. Oh the hours you spend in a hammock. The sun and scuba diving are tiring – and those are two things that you will surely find in Isla Fuerte. What better way to rest than in hammocks by the sea?

Isla Fuerte is a hidden paradise.

How to get to Isla Fuerte:

*Note: at the bottom of this post you can find a map to get familiar with where all the places I’ll mention are!

There are a few airports you can fly into to get to Isla Fuerte, but one route that’s the simplest – arriving in Monteria:

  1. Fly to Monteria’s Aeropuerto (Airport) los Garzones.
  2. From there, take a taxi to Paso Nuevo, a town on the coast of Cordoba close to San Bernardo del Viento. It usually costs $150,000 COP or about $50 dollars. People at the hostel you’re staying at on the island probably know some taxi drivers they trust. Make sure you ask them! The ride is beautiful, following the riverbed of the Sinu River and going through the landscapes that make Monteria and the region famous for its cattle.
  3. There’s only one way to get to Isla Fuerte from Paso Nuevo and that’s on a boat. Talk to the people at your lodging in Isla Fuerte and they will arrange to pick you up (they usually do that in the morning). You can find my hostel advice below!

Other places from which you can get to Paso Nuevo:

  • Cartagena: fly into Cartagena and take a bus or a car for 4 to 5 hours to Paso Nuevo. If you’re going on a bus you’ll have to get off at Lorica and take a taxi to Paso Nuevo.
  • Medellin: fly into Medellin and take a bus or a car for 10 to 12 hours to Paso Nuevo. If you’re going on a bus you’ll have to get off at Monteria or Lorica and take a taxi to Paso Nuevo.
  • Barranquilla: fly into Barranquilla and take a bus or a car for 7 to 8 hours to Paso Nuevo. If you’re going on a bus you’ll have to get off at Lorica and take a taxi to Paso Nuevo.

Some things to know:

My hostel advice (totally non-sponsored, I just like them): The best hostal by far on the island is the Isla Fuerte Ecolodge. Being privileged in having a scuba instructor for a Dad, I’ve stayed at this hostel around 5 times and the experience has always been incredible. On an isolated island with no water source and only recently electricity, the hostel is big on sustainability. They invest heavily in Isla Fuerte’s natural environment and native community. On top of being great people, you just have a good time. You can dive, kayak, aqua-plane, there are beautiful walks, and the food is spectacular 100% of the time. You also leave Isla Fuerte having made a bunch of friends. It’s really a unique, joyful place.

Something to take into account, as comfortable as the hostel is, is that since there’s limited water and electricity there’s no air conditioning.

Read more at islafuerte.com

Taxi from Paso Nuevo to Monteria: about $150,000 COP or $50 dollars.

Parking in Paso Nuevo: before you get on the boat to Isla Fuerte, you can park in Paso Nuevo if you drove. When you get off the main highway to enter Paso Nuevo, go all the way until the paved road ends. There, take a left and on the first corner of the second block you’ll see a yellow house with a big patio to its right. Tell them you need to park and they’ll show you how to go about it. They have a huge parking lot behind the house.

Trash: all the trash on Isla Fuerte must eventually be taken to the mainland, but even on the coast trash is handled badly and will end up in the ocean. Take your trash as far inland as you´re going!

Water: be careful with how much water you use. Isla Fuerte does not have a natural source of water, so all their water is collected during the few rainy months they get on the Island.

The lighthouse of death: one of the hikes in Isla Fuete leads you to a lighthouse. Usually people dare each other to climb up it, but please don’t. When I was in Isla Fuerte recently, my plan was to climb it until a local showed us a rung that had rusted off the ladder all by itself and fallen to the ground. All the rungs are probably in the same condition. (If you’ve ever climbed up, I’d love to hear your experience in the comments though!)

What to do in Isla Fuerte:

  • Go see the Bonga: this tree is gigantic. You have to go see it. You think the ocean is amazing? There are epic things on land too, like this tree!
  • Swing on the Roots of the Walking Tree: this tree is an enormous Ficus whose canopy spans 70 meters. Roots grow from its branches, which hold the canopy up as it expands. Some of these roots haven’t reached the ground and are so strong that you can climb up them or swing on them.
  • Morgan’s Cave: they say this cave got its name because the Pirate Morgan has a cave in San Andres, Providencia, Islas del Rosario, and everywhere really, so there had to be one in Isla Fuerte. You won’t find his treasure or his body, but there are bats and tiny frogs.
  • Quibbes: one of my traditions is to stop in Cerete on the way to Paso Nuevo and eat quibbes, which are Arab empanadas. You can get them filled with curdled milk, eggplant, or meat. They may not sound that appealing but they are amazing.
  • Scuba, kayak, paddle boarding, and aqua-plane: being on an island and not doing all these ocean activities is pretty much a sin. You can do all of these in Isla Fuerte. My favorite is the aqua-plane, which is like a plane underwater. You can maneuver it above and below the surface of the water and make it turn around like an airplane doing pirouettes as you hold onto it and a boat pulls you. Two people can hang on it while one drives. The challenge: who can hold on the longest?
  • Go birdwatching: this tiny island has 83 species of birds to watch for days! Birds migrate to Isla Fuerte during winter, finding the perfect place to reproduce and making it a heavenly place if you’re a birdwatcher.

Check out our tourism tips for exploring Bogota if you’re there for some time or read some more posts to get psyched to go an adventure!

Here’s a small glimpse of what a few days in Isla Fuerte are like!

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