MUST-GO after Hueco – How to get to Last Chance Canyon

Posted on March 25, 2024

Where to Sport Climb Close to Hueco Tanks

After 3 weeks bouldering in Hueco Tanks, our bodies were spent. As we planned for the next stages of our trip, people kept telling us about a sport climbing crag called Last Chance Canyon near Carlsbad, New Mexico. Though we wanted to keep driving west, the itch to sport climb got a hold of us and we headed north-east from Hueco. It turned out to be exactly what we needed after so much bouldering, and we were even conditioned for the Solstice Cave, which has super overhung climbs all the way to 14a. This place is a must-go for the next times we visit Hueco now! Here’s how to get to Last Chance Canyon and a little bit of beta for your trip here!

Btw, THIS is my Hueco Tanks gumby guide!

How to get to Last Chance Canyon

Just look for Last Chance Canyon, Carlsbad, New Mexico, and Google Maps will take you straight to where you start hiking.

What to climb?

We got on a 10d at the Solstice Cave to warmup both days we were there. It was a good route to get a feeling for the rock here. Then we got on Eternal Sunshine 12a, which people had recommended us, and it was AMAZING. After that, we tried Solstice 12d, which is kind of a thuggy jug-haul, and it was also an absolute blast. Next time we hope to get on the only 4-star route in the cave, a 13b on the other side.

The hiking!

Right where you park your car there’s a sign requesting climbers to pack their trash out (do it). From there, you can see the Solstice Cave all the way in the valley. Hike the path, keeping to the left of the hill you’re on if you ever stray off-path (you can actually see the path on Google Maps if you want a visual). It’s a hike down all the way, which means its VERY tiring on the way up. The way up takes about 45 minutes, but we didn’t time it.

The sleeping?

Last Chance Canyon is inside of Lincoln National Forest, which means you can camp for free. You’ll see a number of camping spots and fire circles right before you get to the trailhead down to the Solstice Cave, and you can stay for free up to 14 days. You also won’t see a lot of people, with we thought was perfect after Hueco.

The driving!

The last 4 miles of the drive here are a bit rough, with some spots where you’d want a little more clearance. Our Subaru Forester made it without a problem, and our friend’s Crosstrek also made it. A smaller vehicle? Maybe, if you’re a master of unpaved roads, but do it at your own risk. The point is, you don’t need 4-wheel drive, but you do want some good clearance.

Extra little bit of beta?

It can get windy AF here, and don’t always trust the weather forecast (it deceived us).
Its close to Sitting Bull falls, where there’s also climbing. We didn’t climb here this time around, but you could also come and just enjoy the falls and get in the water.
Take lots of water, but there’s drinking water from a faucet right before the dirt road at the Guadalupe Rangers District.
You can find all the beta for this climbing crag online, but we mostly used Mountain Project.
We only visited the Solstice Cave, but there’s one area called the Mad Cow Cave, and that’s a spot we’ll be visiting next time because it sounds awesome.

Travel Guide

Gumby to Dirtbag – Ultimate Guide to Climbing in Hueco Tanks

Posted on March 18, 2024

Climbing in Hueco Tanks State Park

We just spent three weeks at Hueco Tanks, our first time ever. And this guide is everything you need to know for your first time there – or what we learned. You could call this a FAQ, because it answers a lot of questions WE have asked, had answered, and now are giving to you. Without further ado… this is a beginner’s guide to climbing in Hueco Tanks.

The Season:

Pretty much when everywhere else is too cold to climb. The bouldering season goes from beginning of November to end of March; pretty much the whole time the Hueco Rock Ranch is open – although I wish they’d stay open a little longer.

By early March, everyone’s saying its too hot, the Rock Ranch closes, and hot blooded Colombians are just now thawing from winter, ready to boulder in the life-giving sun. It does get WAY too windy in late March, though.

I’m writing this from a library in El Paso, hiding from 40 mph winds in the desert as I write, actually.

The rock:

Is this boring stuff? But this is why Hueco Tanks is said to be the best bouldering in the world.

The rock is a weak granite that feels to me like sandstone… but the way its been shaped by erosion across eons? Oh mama! This rock makes climbing feel like it makes sense!

Where to Stay to Climb in Hueco Tanks:

Rock Ranch: We car camped for $10 per person, and it was super worth it. You can a communal area with furniture, a cooking area, a ping pong table and lots of cool people to meet. If you choose the rooms, they cost $25 for the bunks and $45 for a private room, per person per night. They have their own cool, nicer, communal area. The Ranch is open from mid-November to mid-March.
Gleatherland: This camping location is known for being quiet and peaceful, and it’s first-come first-serve for camping, at $5 per person per night. If you’re in an RV, it costs $25 per night and you need a reservation. It gets cheaper the longer you stay, and Gleatherland is open from November to April.
The Mud Hut: This location is where the party’s at. You’ll be able to meet a lot of climbers, and it’s the closest to the entrance to Hueco Tanks. It costs $5 per night per person.
El Paso: This puts you about 20-30 minutes away from Hueco Tanks, but getting an AirBnB or hotel is always an option and may give you the comfort you need for a substantial price increase.
In the State Park: They have some campsites with water and others with electricity. Staying here puts you a bit far away from civilization, and you’re trapped in the park from 6pm to 8am every day. If you have the Texas State Park Pass, it can be a good option in terms of price, but it’s a bit limiting.

Should you make reservations?

The short answer is yes.

Only 70 people can visit the park self-guided every day. That’s why there’s are two types of people entering Hueco Tanks each day. The people with reservations, who can enter the park between 8 and 10 am (or call 915-857-1135) to hold their reservation), and those who are waiting in a line of cars on the right side of the road at the Hueco Tanks entrance, if the park’s full.

Right at 8 am every day, the first 10 people waiting in line get to enter the park immediately. From 8-10 am, those in line can get in as and if people call to cancel their reservations. At 10, all unfulfilled reservations are automatically cancelled and that number of people waiting in line get to go in. After that, if you’re in line, you have to wait for people to start exiting the park.

So…

It helps having reservations, and you can make them starting 3 months before your visit by calling (512) 389-8911. Before calling, make sure you’ve made an account for yourself on Reserve America. You can call and make a reservation for multiple people, and they all have to have accounts on Reserve America.

This is especially nice if you’re going to be climbing in Hueco Tanks for a mere week and need to be in the park by 8 am every day you have planned.

We were climbing for 3 weeks, and our plans changed based on how WRECKED our bodies were and due to the weather.

We were able to climb on days we didn’t have reservations, and it was no problem at all, especially during the week. Some days, we were able to arrive at noon and get right in; other days, we waited in line for 2 hours. One day we did NOT get in (it was a Saturday).

It’ll definitely be harder to get in without a reservation during high season and the weekends, but if you get in line SUPER early, you’ll most likely make it in.

That being said, if you have a reservation and choose to forego it, CANCEL IT so that someone in line can get in quick!

Best boulders in Hueco Tanks:

This is very subjective, obviously, but my favorite climbs were: Girls of Juarez, Stegosaur, Denizen, Free Willy, and King Cobra.

Lala’s favorite boulders were: Baby Martini, Lobster Claw, Denizen, and Girls of Juarez.

Should you get the Texas State Park Pass?

Most likely, yes. It costs $70 and whoever is in the car with you will pay $0 to get into the park. All it takes is 10 days of climbing for it to be worth it for one person. With 4 people in a car? 3 days. And it lasts a full year, so you can use it next season too if you time it right!

Tour or self-guided?

Self guided means you’ll be rock climbing on North Mountain, since all others require a guide. There is more than enough climbing on North Mountain for a lifetime, and it has the best boulders. Going on tours every day could get very pricey, but it’s worth getting to know other areas. So go on some tours, but mostly self guided!

Do you need a guidebook?

Yea, it makes it so much easier to find boulders. However, if it’s too pricey, you do get signal pretty much around the entire park or at least a stone’s throw away, so you could rely on Mountain Project or a similar app.

Fun Climbing Challenges

We met some folks at the Hueco Rock Ranch who had been climbing at Hueco Tanks State Park so long, they were making up games… and man, they had the right idea. Here’s two super fun challenges!

The Tour d’ Fours: Climb these ten V4’s in a day at Hueco Tanks, in this order (this day was spectacular) – Dab, T-bone Shuffle, Lithologic, Squirm, B-Flat, Denizen, Pudgy Pussack, Double Vision, Girls of Juarez, and Bloody Flapper. The end will haunt you. A classically sand-bagged Hueco Tanks V4. Enjoy!
Nobody Runs Out of Here Alive: Start at the pond parking and run up to Nobody Here Gets Out Alive (V2). Climb it and run all the way back down to where you started. Current record (about 6:30) and rules are in a binder in the barn at Hueco Rock Ranch.

Check out our favorite crags close to Nashville!

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