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hiking

Travel Guide

How to Get to La Valvanera in Chía

Posted on August 12, 2022
how to get to La Valvanera

If you’re looking for a hike that’s a lot like Monserrate, but not as crowded, the hike to La Valvanera Chapel is the one for you. It’s not in Bogota, but in a town right outside the city called Chía. The hike is easy, but nice and steep at some points. There are also two bike trails, one on a road up to the chapel and a mountain biking trail to get down the mountain. This is how to get to La Valvanera.

Check out the map at the bottom of the post for a visual guide!

How to get to La Valvanera in Chía

In Public Transportation (check out the map because getting around Chia can be a little confusing):

  1. If you’re in Bogota, head to Portal Norte (marked on the map below) and take a Flota Chia almost all the way to the Chia Transportation Terminal. This costs $3,500 Colombian pesos.
  2. Get off right before the terminal at Calle 11 – you can tell the driver and they’ll drop you off there.
  3. Walk on Calle 11 all the way until it ends, staying on its weird turns, and passing a bridge that goes over a small but beautiful creek.
  4. If you’re hiking, go left where Calle 11 ends and take the first road to the right. A little to the right of where this new road ends, after some shops where you can buy some treats, you’ll see a big sign, which is the trailhead for the hike up to La Valvanera Chapel.
  5. If you’re biking, go right where Calle 11 ends and take the first road to the left. If you stay on this road, you’re pretty much on the bike route. So keep going straight when you get to an intersection and you’ll start the climb up. At the first definite Y in the road, take a left, and then take the middle road at the middle intersection, where there’s a sign towards the La Valvanera Chapel. This is the longest and least steep bike route.
  6. There are two steeper bike rides coming from the other side of the Chapel, and doing all of them on the same trip is a great idea! I’ve marked all of them on the map below.

In a car: Enter “Parqueadero MTB Chia Valvanera” into Google Maps or Waze and follow the directions. This is where you can park, and the hike starts by the mountainside where you see a big sign.

To read about another hike literally IN Bogota, click here!

What to do at La Valvanera:

  • Like I said before, you can either bike or hike up to the Chapel. Enjoy some wonderful nature while you work those lungs. The hike is half a kilometer long, or about 0.34 miles. There are actually 3 bike routes, from 1 to 2.7 kilometers long, and the shortest one is STEEP. There’s also a gnarly mountain biking descent route.
  • Have a picnic at the top. You can either take some food and eat on the grass by the Chapel or buy some delicious traditional Colombian food at the restaurant at the top.
  • As long as you’re in Chia, I’d like to recommend two of my favorite restaurants: El Galápago Campestre, for some huge burgers or amazing steaks, and La Magola, for some of the best Colombian bread (pandeyuca and almojabana) and a fermented rice drink called masato.

Some things to know:

Is it safe? Definitely, if you go in the morning, and even more so on the weekends, because you’ll be surrounded by other like-minded hikers and bikers. It can be a little more lonesome in the afternoon, but still safe. At night, it may or not be unsafe, like any place in Colombia, so just go in the morning!

Going up to La Valvanera Chapel is free.

This hike is pet-friendly.

Take really good care of this area. Not that this doesn’t apply to everywhere you go, but the area is actually an indigenous reserve. Don’t risk everyone’s access to this gorgeous spot by littering or being disrespectful.

To see the biking and hiking routes beforehand, I suggest you search for them on Strava. I’ll link you to the most popular bike route, which is the 2 km one, to see distance, altitude, height gained, etc.

Thanks for making it this far! I’d really appreciate it if you watched the YouTube video above to get a feel for the hike. Happy exploring!

Travel Guide

How to get to Quebrada la Vieja

Posted on July 6, 2022
how to get to Quebrada la Vieja

The mountains to the east of Bogota are a unique place right outside the big city. You’re close to the city, but the cool air enters your nose like you’re in the backwoods of who-know-where. All the hikes on Bogota’s mountain range were closed for a few years because they were over-used. Thankfully, they reopened in 2022, although with more restrictions. You have to reserve a spot online and have until about 9:30 am to reach the top of the hike. This all makes for a nicer hike with less crowds. And let me tell you – the amount of people you could find here on a Sunday before the restrictions was CRAZY! Find out how to get to Quebrada la Vieja, make your reservation and more by reading on!

How to get to Quebrada la Vieja:

You can find the map to get to Quebrada la Vieja at the bottom of this post!

Walking:

  1. Get on a Transmilenio to get to the Calle 72 station and walk straight towards the mountains.
  2. On Calle 72, you’ll find the trailhead with a big sign. You’ll still be among the buildings, but on top of a little creek. Follow the trail.
  3. When the trail puts you back on the pavement, keep walking towards the mountain. When you get to the Circunvalar road, or Carrera 2 Este, you have to cross it underneath through a sketchy-looking tunnel. Exit the tunnel and the real trailhead will be right above.
  4. Start hiking and a few minutes in they’ll ask you for your reservation and point you in the right direction. Eventually, tou’ll get to a large clearing. If you continue on the trail towards the left, you can get to a lookout with a statue of a Virgin. If you continue on the trail towards the right and keep going, you can get to a lookout with a cross.

In a car:

To be honest, it’s best to get to Quebrada la Vieja from the Transmilenio or in an Uber.

If Ubering, type in this address and you’re good: Quebrada La Vieja, Cl. 71, Bogotá.

If you do head over in a car:

  1. The closest parking garage is called Park Elite on Calle 72 close to Carrera 7 (I know, that probably means nothing to you, so it’s marked on the map below).
  2. Walk up Calle 72 towards the mountains, eventually walking along a little creek and through a sketchy tunnel. The trailhead will be there right after the tunnel.
  3. Start hiking and a few minutes in they’ll ask you for your reservation and point you in the right direction. Eventually, you’ll get to a large clearing. If you continue on the trail towards the left, you can get to a lookout with a statue of a Virgin. If you continue on the trail towards the right and keep going, you can get to a lookout with a cross.

Is it safe?

During the hours Quebrada la Vieja is open to the public, there are officials spread out across the hike to help make it safe and a police officer at Claro de la Luna. So yes, it is safe!

Watch this video to see Quebrada la Vieja for yourself! It’s hard to believe this is INSIDE Bogotá..

How to make a reservation:

  1. Go to https://gme.acueducto.com.co/visitas/
  2. Click on any of the Quebrada la Vieja options. I recommend La Virgen or Alto de la Cruz because Claro de la Luna is an intermediate option from where you can go left to La Virgen or right towards Alto de la Cruz. The “Paramo” option is a longer hike but is usually not available.
  3. Fill out the information and you’re good to go! You have to show your reservation when you get there.

Some things to know:

  • There is no entrance fee for the Quebrada la Vieja trail.
  • Pets are not allowed on the trail.
  • The trail is open Tuesday to Friday from 5:00 to 9:00 am and Weekends from 6:00 to 11:00 am. It’s not open on Mondays and, if the Monday is a holiday, it won’t be open on Tuesday.
  • The hike to the Virgin is 1.3 km and 1.7 km to the Cross.
  • You’re only allowed to go to one lookout per visit, so if you want to get to know the Virgin and the Cross, you’ll have to go two separate days.
  • If you have any questions, write to me on Instagram!

What to do at Quebrada la Vieja:

Have a breakfast picnic while you gaze at Bogota from above.

Take care of your surroundings: people sometimes damage beauty while they try to enjoy it; please try not to! One of the amazing things about Quebrada la Vieja is how wild it feels even though you’re literally minutes from one of the world’s most populated cities. Let’s keep it that way.

Take pictures of towering eucalyptus and pine trees, the morning sun rays splitting the air, the cold morning air visibly entering and exiting your lungs, and Bogota, much smaller from above.

Interested in getting to know the outdoors close to Bogota? I recommend you check out Choachi and all there is to do around there!
Travel Guide

A NEW Climbing Area Close to Bucaramanga

Posted on October 19, 2020
new climbing area close to bucarmanga

Deep in the mountains of Santander, about 2 hours from Bucaramanga, there is our friend, Silvio Bejarano. His vision, quite literally, since you can see it from his front door, is a cliff-side with incredible climbing potential. He moved there by himself to launch his hostal, La Antigua Floresta, and develop the climbing nearby. This place is worth visiting because it is going to be big in the climbing community. It already has some spectacular climbs, without even scratching the surface. Plus, out there you really are far from civilization, so it’s a great place to take a deep breath of nature and rest. Read on to get to know La Antigua Floresta and the new climbing area close to Bucaramanga and Tona!

If you’d like to read about another great climbing spot close to Bucaramanga, click here!

How to Get to La Antigua Floresta

(Find a map to get to La Antigua Floresta from Bucaramanga at the end of this blog post!)

Traveling on Colombia’s bus system is usually easy and inexpensive, but getting to La Antigua Floresta is quite complicated, so we recommend getting there in a car or motorcycle. If you need transportation from Bucaramanga, you can contact Silvio and he’ll set it up for you (more on that below).

With a GPS: look up “La Antigua Floresta, Tona, Santander” on Google Maps or Waze and follow the directions. Park your car at an entrance to a path on the road, shortly after passing “El Gramal” (I marked the spot on the map below). Someone will meet you there for the hike up to the hostel.

Without a GPS:

  1. Exit downtown Bucaramanga on the road to Cúcuta from Megamall. At kilometer 18, take the second exit on the roundabout headed towards Tona.
  2. When you enter the town of Tona, keep going straight, passing the plaza. Head up the road until “El Gramal.” This is the last place you can buy groceries. We recommend you buy them here to support the local economy!
  3. Continue 10 minutes until you find the entrance to the hostal on a wide curve (marked on the map). You can leave your car inside the fence.
  4. From here, you have a 30-40 minute hike left to get to La Antigua Floresta!

What to Do at La Antigua Floresta

  • Rock Climb!

At the time we visited in October, 2020, there were 17 routes, 11 in one climbing area and 6 in another. All were slabby, but we watched as Silvio bolted a 3-bolt roof with some crazy moves. Further up the cliff (on the second pitch, which you can climb up to on a via ferrata) are several undeveloped climbing areas. There’s everything from insane, layered overhangs to long-ass cracks to slabs waiting to be bolted, and surely of every climbing level. This place is going to have a lot of classic climbs, so it’s worth a visit… and if you can contribute just a tiny bit to developing it by simply visiting and having a great time, I’m sure our buddy Silvio Bejarano would greatly appreciate that.

  • Hike Along the Whole Edge of the Middle of the Cliff

One of the days we visited Silvio, he showed us one of the hikes on which he plans to take people. You start off hiking up to the first climbing area and along the edge of the cliff where there’s a via ferrata to climb up to a ledge in the middle of the cliff. This ledge spans the entire length of the cliff. From there, you keep hiking all the way up through valleys and boulder fields as you watch the clouds roll in and out of the panorama. The whole way, you have incredible (potential) climbs above your head. It was an 8 hour hike with lunch stop and everything, and worth every moment!

  • Get in the River

It will be cold! But in a place with so many rivers and watering holes, you just have to take advantage of them. Pretty much every hike runs across a river or creek, so your options are extensive. Lale actually got into the pool from where La Antigua Floresta gets its water and helped clear the pipe of leaves (everyone gets their water from the rivers here, since there is no piping system, and it’s absolutely drinkable).

  • Pick Andean Blueberries

There are scores of Andean Blueberry plants behind La Antigua Floresta. During a chill day, there’s nothing quite like picking blueberries and then making jelly, dessert or pancakes with them.

  • You can Apply to Volunteer

As of now, La Antigua Floresta has a ways to go. Silvio is looking to make it a proper hostel for climbers and non-climbers alike, with a capacity to host lots of people and make them feel like they’re at home. If you’re looking to get cheaper lodging, want to get your hands dirty or would like to help develop this upcoming climbing area, we suggest you contact the place and see what you can set up! (Contact info below).

  • Eat. A lot.

One thing La Antigua Floresta has had from the start is a fully equipped kitchen. They even have one of those industrial ovens with four doors! We made some delicacies while we were there: French bread, lasagna, pizza, cinnamon rolls, some delicious oatmeal and pancakes with Andean blueberries and more. Silvio is a great chef, or you can pay for cooking space. You’ll have to hike in with all your groceries, so choose wisely. Still, I’d say a difficult hike is worth it for a full belly at all times.

Biosafety

The hostel has important biosafety protocols for everyone’s safety. You have to make a reservation beforehand, fill out a Health Statement and Liability Exemption Form and disinfect yourself and your belongings upon arrival. The maximum number of climbers allowed during the pilot program is 8 climbers in the climbing area.

Some Things to Know

  • To contact Silvio directly, you can call or WhatsApp him at (321) 389-9107. You can also message him on Instagram on La Antigua Floresta or Escalada Tona‘s pages. Drop them a follow too to support this venture!
  • Staying at La Antigua Floresta costs $25,000 pesos per day.
  • You can rent all sorts of camping and climbing gear.
  • Low or old cars might have trouble on the last stretch of the journey up. If you want to play it safe, you can take the same road from above, though it is a longer trip.
  • Before getting to the hostel, you have to hike a 1.5 km path from the road. We highly recommend taking luggage with which you can hike (learn from our mistake)!
  • As of October, 2020, there are 11 climbing routes in one climbing area and 6 in the other. Routes are being opened as often as possible, but nuts and bolts are expensive, so the endeavor may be slow at times.
  • There is ONE toll from Bucaramanga to La Antigua Floresta, and none on the way back.
  • The cell service that connects best in this area is Claro.

We truly hope this helps make up your mind to visit! It’s a new climbing area close to Bucaramanga, and its going to be huge. If you’ve been wondering where to climb in Colombia or Santander, this is as good a place as any. Let us know if you do!

If you’d like to see a long list of climbing areas in Colombia, click here and read on!

Travel Guide

How to Get to Parque Embalse el Hato

Posted on June 21, 2019
how to get to Parque Embalse el Hato, close to bogota, outdoors, camping

Very close to the Neusa Dam is another smaller dam that is also great for camping, walking, fishing and simply enjoying nature. It’s called the Parque Embalse el Hato, or Hato Dam Park. This place is a little further from Bogota (about 2 hours). However, since it’s small, it can feel more crowded even though there aren’t that many people. It also seems to attract a different crowd than the Neusa Dam. During our experience, there was loud music until 1 am and drunken singing until 3 am. This is based on one visit, and I try not to judge, but I would still recommend the Neusa Dam over this place. Despite that, we’ll always remember the Hato Dam dearly because Lala and I GOT ENGAGED HERE!! There’s also lots to do around Ubate, the closest town. This is how to get to Parque Embalse el Hato. 

Find out how to get to the Neusa Dam here!

How to get to Parque Embalse el Hato

*Note: the map to get to Embalse el Hato from Bogota is at the end of this post!

In Public Transportation:

  1. Go to Bogota’s Terminal de Transporte (Main Bus Terminal) and take a bus to Ubate. The bus companies that have a route there are Expreso Gaviota, Flota San Vicente and Rápido El Carmen.
  2. Once you get to Ubate, ask around at the bus terminal for transportation to Parque Embalse el Hato. If that doesn’t work, go to Ubate’s main plaza, find the government building or a tourism company and get them to help you out. You could also walk to the dam, but it would take 1 to 1.5 hours.

In a Car:

With a GPS: enter “Parque Embalse el Hato” into Google Maps or Waze and follow the directions.

Without a GPS:

  1. In Bogota, exit the city headed north.
  2. Stay on the highway following the signs to Chia. Shortly after a toll, you’ll head right to go under a bridge.
  3. At the next bridge, stay right on the bridge and follow this road until you see a Homecenter on the right. Then, turn right where you see a sign to Zipaquira and Ubate.
  4. Stay left to cross the next bridge, following signs to Ubate.
  5. Not long afterwards, you’ll get to a round-about. Take the second exit and stay on this road, which will take you through Sutatausa, all the way to Ubate.
  6. When you’re right outside of Ubate, you’ll get to a round-about. Take the second exit towards downtown Ubate.
  7. When you get to a fork in the road, go left on the road that doesn’t have a stoplight. Stay on that road until Calle 5 and turn left onto it, where there’s a red store called Almacen Montevideo.
  8. Go until you cross a bridge, where the road ends, and turn left again.
  9. From here, stay on the main road until you see a white sign that points to Embalse el Hato to the left. Head left and you’ll arrive in a few minutes!

If you’re bored of the city, here’s a list of outdoor activities to do close to Bogota!

What to do at Embalse el Hato:

Camp

Just like the Neusa Dam, most people come here to camp with friends and family. Camping costs $21,500 Colombian pesos or about $7 dollars. This fee covers up to 3 consecutive nights of camping! The area is pretty new, but has a good bit of amenities. There’s actually a bathroom with toilet paper! Also, starting random campfires is prohibited. If you want fire and warmth, you have to use a kind of grill structure they rent out to people. I listed the prices of everything below, but you can also find prices at this link (which is in Spanish, though), where you can also rent a cabin room if you’d rather not camp.

Colfrance

My family has a tradition while we’re traveling back from Villa de Leyva of stopping at Colfrance. Ubate is known for its milk, and Colfrance is known for everything that has to do with dairy. And it’s French. We always get a glass of milk and a pandeyuca, and people look at us funny. You can also get sausages, coffee, cheese, desserts and lots of typical Colombian foods. It’s right outside of Ubate and worth a visit! I marked it on the map below.

Cerro de Chegua

A whole lot of hikes in Colombia and around the world end with a cross at the summit. One summit close to Embalse el Hato has an actual church, or sanctuary, on top of it, and it’s a very significant landmark of Ubate. You can get pretty close to it in a car and then you have to hike about half a kilometer. The sanctuary is nice, but the view is what’s truly beautiful.

Some Things to Know:

  • Towards the end of the trip, the road towards Embalse el Hato becomes unpaved, but is in good enough conditions for any car.
  • Take cash, because very few restaurants, stores, etc. will take your credit or debit card!
  • You’ll pay 3 tolls on your trip: two on the way there and one on the way back to Bogota.
  • The park is closed on the first business day of every week.
  • Schedule: Tuesday to Sunday 8:30 AM to 4:00 PM. You can arrive to camp until 6:00 PM Tuesday to Thursday and until 9:00 PM Friday to Sunday and Holidays.
  • It costs $5,500 pesos ($2 dollars) for citizens to enter the park and $10,500 pesos ($4 dollars) for foreigners.
  • Camping costs $21,500 Colombian pesos ($7 dollars) and pays for 3 successive nights of camping. If you pay for camping, you don’t have to pay the entrance fee.
  • Parking costs $3,000 pesos for cars and $2,000 pesos for motorcycles (about $1 and $0.75) , only if you’re there for the day. If you’re camping, there is no parking fee.
  • Renting a grill structure costs $5,000 pesos ($1.5 dollars).

We hope this helps you find out how to get to Parque Embalse el Hato, and that it motivates you to go!

Another place that’s pretty close to Ubate, and is actually closer to Bogota, is Sutatausa. There, you can rock climb, hike and camp. Read about how to get to Sutatausa here!

Travel Guide

How to get to La Mesa

Posted on June 17, 2019
how to get to La Mesa, what to do, main plaza

A quaint town just about 2 hours south-west of Bogotá, La Mesa is a good place to visit for a day or even to spend a weekend. This town is in the middle of the mountains, in a truly beautiful setting. There’s lots to eat, places to see and trails to hike. We’ll get into that shortly. This is how to get to La Mesa!

If you’re researching outdoor activities close to Bogota, we have the perfect list for you here!

How to get to La Mesa

*Note: the map to get to La Mesa from Bogota is at the end of this post!

In Public Transportation:

  1. Head over to Bogota‘s Main Bus Terminal (I marked it on the map) and take a bus to La Mesa. A lot of bus companies will have a route there, but the cheapest is San Vicente, at $12,000 Colombian pesos.

In a Car:

With a GPS: enter “La Mesa, Cundinamarca” into Google Maps or Waze and follow the directions.

Without a GPS:

  1. The easiest way to go to La Mesa without crossing Bogota’s traffic-filled south is to start by getting on Av. Boyacá.
  2. From the Boyacá road, it’ll be easiest for you to head west on Calle 13 towards Mosquera (away from Bogota’s Eastern mountain range). It’ll take you straight to Mosquera.
  3. When you get to Mosquera, don’t go into town. Stay on the main road (which is Occidente 50) headed left towards Facatativa.
  4. Shortly after, you’ll see a sign that says “Para La Mesa Tome Carril Derecho.” This means, stay in the right lane for La Mesa. When the road splits right, go right.
  5. This will lead you to a round-about. Take the third exit, towards La Mesa.
  6. Stay on the main road and you will arrive at La Mesa.

Read about this cloud forest that’s between La Mesa and Bogota!

What to do at La Mesa:

Salto de las Monjas

  • how to get to La Mesa, cathedral, santa barbara de la mesa
  • how to get to La Mesa, beautiful architecture
  • how to get to La Mesa, nature, outdoors, sunset

If you like rivers and waterfalls, this is the activity for you. A short, easy hike will lead you to a beautiful pool carved out by a waterfall. How to get to Salto de las Monjas: follow the same directions to get to La Mesa from Bogota. Once you’re close to La Mesa, you’ll see a white sign pointing towards “Cachipay” to the right. Go right until you get to the Paraiso Terrenal Hotel. You can park there, ask someone where the trail begins and get started!

Macadamia Adventure Park

This park is right outside La Mesa as you get there following the directions above. It’s kind of a ropes course park on steroids. It has zip lining, walking across valleys on thin metal ropes, and adventurous things like that. One thing I will say is that if you’re used to adrenaline (like, if you rock climb) it won’t be as fun. It wasn’t for us because we’re so used to the excitement of climbing. That being said, if you’re not an adrenaline junky like us, you’re in for a treat!

Go Hiking

There are so many hikes around here. Like I said, La Mesa is in the mountains, so there’s enough rivers, waterfalls, and… well, mountains to get some exercise and fresh air. Trails can be hard to find in Colombia, because we just don’t have very good outdoors infrastructure, but they’re there! Check out this website with a long list of hikes in the area and feel free to ask around for directions when you’re close to the trailhead. You may have to do some research, but definitely do it.

Visit the Main Plaza

As with most Colombian cities and towns, La Mesa has a main plaza and a beautiful cathedral. Head over (I marked it on the map) and enjoy the scenery, people watch a little and eat some local food. It’s a good time.

Bike

Since both Bogota and La Mesa are right in the Andes mountains, the road between them is winding and has some nice, steep slopes. Colombians are really into biking, and it’s common for people to travel between the two places on their bikes for exercise. It’s really hard though, especially the way back to Bogota, since it’s mostly uphill. If you’re hardcore, go ahead and do the trek. If not, no problem! Take your bike to La Mesa and bike around… it’s worth it!

Some things to know:

  • La Mesa is warmer than Bogota.
  • Make sure you take cash, because a lot of small restaurants, stores, etc. won’t accept debit or credit cards.
  • There are lots of hotels here. My only recommendation is more of an observation: the further away from La Mesa you stay, the hotels/hostels revolve more around nature.

I hope this blog post helped you understand how to get to La Mesa and gave you some ideas for what to do at La Mesa.

Now, if you love camping, we know the place just for you. It’s north of Bogota, and it’s amazing. Read about the Neusa Dam here!

Travel Guide

What to do in Villa de Leyva

Posted on October 27, 2018
what to do in Villa de Leyva, how to get to Villa de Leyva, hiking, adventure, food tips, where to eat, vacation

Villa de Leyva is a dreamy place. The Spanish tiles, cobbled roads, every restaurant’s vibe and the combination of dessert and forest make it one of Colombia’s most beautiful towns. Only 3 hours and 4 tolls away from Bogota, it’s a great place to rest, go on some adventures and enjoy its unique culture. In this blog post, you’ll get tips on where to go on adventures and where to eat, two of Lala and my favorite things to do. This is what to do in Villa de Leyva (and how to get there too, below!).

You may also be interested in reading: how to get to Mongui, a town that competes with Villa de Leyva for Boyacá’s most beautiful town.

What to do in Villa de Leyva

*Note: the map with all the following places and how to get from Bogota to Villa de Leyva is at the end of this travel guide!

Hiking at the Iguaque Fauna and Flora Sanctuary

We do this hike up to Iguaque Lake (Laguna de Iguaque) every time we go to Villa de Leyva. We’ve done it 7 or 8 times and have enjoyed it every time. After a 30 minute drive on an unpaved road you get to a center where to pay to enter. Then you walk a little to a hostel and restaurant they have, and there you begin the steep hike up to the lake through forests and paramos. For more information about this park, read this blog post with everything you need to know!

Eat at Antique

One of many traditions we have as a family is eating at Antique after hiking. That is, of course, after sleeping a couple of hours. Antique is one of those beautiful restaurants you can find in Villa de Leyva for a special occasion. It can be pricey, but after a tough hike and on vacation you just have to treat yourself. If you earn in dollars, or another well-off currency, though, this will be an amazing meal at a good price.

Eat Dessert at La Galleta or at Pastelería Francesa

Villa de Leyva is diverse when it comes to cultures. Two places I love to taste two different cultures and at La Galleta and at Pastelería Francesa. At La Galleta, you can find desserts from Colombia and the world, but my recommendation is you eat the miloja, which has bunches of layers with cream in between and Arequipe on top. It’s the best dessert I’ve ever had. At Pasteleria Francesa, you can experience French pastries. I have three words to describe the place: chocolate, chocolate and chocolate. Eat anything and everything that has chocolate! Both these places are marked on the map below.

Hike up to el Santo (the Saint)

If you still have energy after hiking up to Iguaque Lake or if you prefer a shorter, easier but equally beautiful hike, you can walk up to the statue of the Saint that towers over Villa de Leyva. You can see it in the distance from town. To get to the trail, go to Calle 12 and walk towards the mountains. In other words, if you’re in the main plaza facing the church, take the road to the right towards the mountain. That road, Calle 12, will take you directly to the start of the trail.

Eat at Sutamarchan

Sutamarchan is a town about 20 minutes from Villa de Leyva. It is so tied to my family’s experiences in Villa de Leyva that I had to include it in this list. We always eat there on our way back to Bogota – it’s known for its Fritanga. Fritanga is unhealthy, but delicious—all friend meat products. It is an extremely traditional Colombian meal and Sutamarchan is one of the best places for it. How to get to Sutamarchan: exit Villa de Leyva on Carrera 12, which you can take one block down from the plaza which the mountains on your left. Follow the signs towards Sutamarchan and Chiquinquira. When you get to Sutamarchan, take a left on the corner with the restaurant Fabrica de Longaniza and eat there… it’s our favorite place.

Ride a Bike in the Desert

One of the best things you can do in Villa de Leyva is ride your bike. Here are some routes you can take, but the funnest way is to go where you want. I recommend you get lost in the small desert, where there’re some awesome hills. It’s almost like BMX! I marked the dessert on the map below. You can find companies that rent bikes and can guide you in Villa de Leyva.

How to get to Villa de Leyva

On Public Transportation:

  1. Go to Terminal Salitre or Terminal del Norte in Bogota, two different bus terminals.
  2. Take a bus straight to Villa de Leyva for $23.000 Colombian pesos ($8 USD).

In a Car:

With a GPS: enter “Villa de Leyva” into Google Maps or Waze and follow the directions.

Without a GPS:

  1. Exit Bogotá going North, following signs to Tunja. You’ll go by Tocancipá, Suesca, the Sisga Dam, Chocontá and Puente de Boyacá (the Boyacá bridge, where Bolivar fought the battle that won Colombia its independence from Spain).
  2. After Puente de Boyacá, take the next U-turn and then turn right where there’s a sign pointing towards Samacá.
  3. Follow this road all the way to Samacá. When you get to the town, get to Calle 4 following the main road, where you’ll turn left and then to the plaza, where you’ll turn right. On this road you’ll be on route to Villa de Leyva.
  4. Not much later, the road will end. Turn left.
  5. Right after the next toll (called peaje Sachica) turn right where a sign points to Villa de Leyva. That road will take you straight to town.

Some things to know:

–          I recommend you go to Villa de Leyva on a weekend that isn’t a holiday or vacation because this town is very touristy and can get really full.

–          However, if you don’t mind crowds, Villa de Leyva has amazing events like the Kite Festival in August.

–          All of Villa de Leyva’s streets are cobbled and all its structures are similar: white walls and Spanish tiles. It’s so nice.

–          Take cash to pay for services you can’t pay with a card.

–          The rainy season is between April and May, and October and November.

I hope this helped you get to know what to do in Villa de Leyva. Enjoy your trip!

If you like adventures, read this blog post about outdoor adventures close to Bogota!

Travel Guide

How to get to Matarredonda Ecological Park

Posted on October 10, 2018
outdoor adventures close to bogota, how to get to matarredonda ecological park, hiking, paramo, frailejon

Matarredonda Ecological Park (Parque Ecológico Matarredonda in Spanish) is a perfect place to rest from the city. It’s a beautiful, small and not very well-known park. It’s only 1 hour from Bogota (depending on where you are and the traffic) and is a gorgeous paramo with water everywhere and an easy hike. A paramo is an alpine ecosystem that only occurs close to the equator. One hike ends at a lake and another one goes to a lake and a waterfall. They’re both about an hour a half trek and are not very steep. This is how to get to Matarredonda Ecological Park.

La Chorrera, Latin America’s sixth tallest waterfall, is only 30 minutes from there! Click here to read how to get there!

How to get to Matarredonda Ecological Park

*The map to get to Matarredonda Ecological Park from Bogota is at the end of this travel guide.

On Public Transportation:

  1. Starting in Bogota, take a bus with the companies Transoriente or Cootransfómeque on Calle 6 with Av. Caracas (its on the map below). The bus costs $10,000 Colombian pesos ($3.5 USD), although it may be less because you aren’t going all the way to Choachi, and the trip lasts about an hour. Buses leave between 5:15 a.m. and 8:00 p.m. every day.
  2. Tell the bus driver you’re going to Parque Ecológico Matarredonda, which will be on your right (be watching for it in case the driver forgets).

In a Car:

With a GPS: enter “Matarredonda Ecological Park” into Google Maps or Waze and follow the directions.

Without a GPS:

  1. In Bogotá, look for Calle 26 going east (or towards the mountains) and stay on it following the signs to the Circunvalar.
  2. Then, follow the signs that indicate that Choachi is to the left. The road upwards begins right after an Universidad Distrital campus.
  3. A few minutes from there, the road makes a confusing U-turn. Be watching for it and stay on the main road.
  4. Stay on this road for about 30 minutes until you see the entrance to Matarredonda Ecological Park on your right.

What to do at Matarredonda Ecological Park

El Marquez del Once: this famous lookout point over Bogota is best known by the cyclists that climb up Bogota’s Eastern mountains every day. It is a great place to have breakfast before hiking or a late lunch after hiking a few hours. Make sure you get the classic Colombian agua-panela, cheese and arepa. See where it is on the map below.

Eat at the Entrance: just like at el Marquez del Once, you can eat at the park entrance, where theres a nice restaurant with traditional food. You might have to eat at one place on the way there and at the other on the way back!

Cerro Guadalupe: even closer to Bogota is Cerro Guadalupe, the mountain with the statue of the Guadalupe Virgin that’s across from Monserrate. Its a great place to visit after hiking the Matarredonda paramo. From Bogota, it’ll be on you right. From Matarredonda, it’ll be on your left. It’s marked on the map below for your convenience!

Stay all day: my recommendation for Matarredonda Ecological Park is to get there early (9 or 10 in the morning) to be able to do both hikes. At a slow pace, both hikes will take a maximum of 5 hours and they’re easy, so it’s worth getting to know them all. That way, you get some exercise, breathe a LOT of fresh air and can be back home by 4 or 5 to take it easy the rest of the day.

Some Things to Know:

–          Make sure you take cash to pay the bus and whatever you buy in places that don’t take your card.

–          There are no tolls on the way to Matarredonda Ecological Park.

–          Entering the park costs $8,000 pesos ($3 USD).

–          The park’s schedule is from 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. every day.

–          Camping costs 12,000 pesos ($4 USD) per person.

–          You don’t need a guide because the trails are very well developed.

–          Click here for a link to a map of the full two hikes.

–          For more information, call this number: 3178657320 or email vjmatarredonda@gmail.com.

I hope this helped you learn how to get to Matarredonda Ecological Park and that you go enjoy the place!

If you like hikes, I suggest you read this blog post on Chingaza National Park, one of Colombia’s most amazing national parks.

Travel Guide

How to get to Lake Guatavita

Posted on October 4, 2018
how to get to Lake Guatavita, what to do, hiking, nature, close to Bogota

Guatavita is a gorgeous town with two well-known bodies of water: the Tominé Dam (Embalse de Tominé), which is right next to the town, and Lake Guatavita (Laguna de Guatavita), which is about 20 minutes away. Lake Guatavita, the topic of this blog post, used to be the central part of an indigenous ritual that occurred when a new Chieftain (Cacique) was put in place. The natives would throw gold statues in the water, making it the site of the El Dorado legend. Because of that, the lake has been a point of interest since olden times, but is now visited because it’s beautiful and has a rich history. This is how to get to Lake Guatavita!

You might also be interested in “How to get to Suesca,” an adventurous town close to Guatavita.

How to get to Lake Guatavita

*The map to get to Lake Guatavita from Bogota is at the end of this post!

In Public Transportation:

  1. Starting in Bogota, take a bus to Guatavita. You can hop on at the Portal Norte, which is Bogota‘s North Bus Terminal. It costs $9,000 pesos ($3 USD).
  2. Tell the bus driver you’re getting off at the entrance to Lake Guatavita (but don’t say Lake Guatavita, say La Laguna de Guatavita!). Stay attentive to where you are and you’ll see a sign on your left that points towards the lake after you pass Sesquile.
  3. From there, there are 7 kilometers (4.3 miles) to the park, and you have three options: (1) walk, which could take about 2 hours, (2) pay for private transportation, which costs around $60,000 pesos ($20 USD), or (3) start walking and try to hitch-hike your way there.
  4. When you get to the park and pay the entrance fee, which is $12,000 pesos ($4 USD) for Colombians and $17,000 pesos ($6 USD) for foreigners, the guides will wait until there is a big enough group for the 20 minute guided hike to Lake Guatavita.
  5. To get back, you can take a bus where the bus dropped you off before in the opposite direction. Another option is to take the same bus to Guatavita, get to know the town and then take a bus straight to Bogota from there.

In a Car:

With a GPS: enter “Lake Guatavita” in Google Maps or Waze and follow the instructions.

Without a GPS:

  1. Exit the city going north and stay on the road to Tunja, not the road to Chia.
  2. Shortly after passing the second toll from Bogota, you’ll see a sign that says Guatavita and Suesca are to the right. Turn right after the bridge and you’ll get to a round-about. Enter the roundabout and take the following exit following the signs to Guatavita. Stay right.
  3. At the following intersection, turn right to get on the road to Guatavita. Stay on the main road to pass through Sesquile.
  4. Soon, you’ll see the road to Lake Guatavita on your left. Stay on that road all the way to the park entrace, following the signs to the Lake.
  5. Once you get to the park, park your car and pay the entrance fee, which is $12,000 pesos ($4 USD) for Colombians and $17,000 pesos ($6 USD) for foreigners, the guides will wait until there is a big enough group for the 20 minute guided hike to Lake Guatavita.

What to do at Lake Guatavita

Take pictures: Lake Guatavita is one of the most beautiful, unique places close to Bogota. The lakes and all of the landscape around it are too picturesque. You just have to take pictures to remember the place.

Go to Guatavita and the Tominé Dam: Guatavita and the Tominé Dam are also gorgeous and totally worth visiting. The dam is right next to the town and both are just 20 minutes from Lake Guatavita.

Go to Sopó: a great plan for after the day’s adventure is to visit Sopó and eat at Alpina or, if you want some more adventure, you can go to Pionono Park on the mountain right next to Sopó. Click here to read more about this town and park!

Some things to know:

–          Make sure you take cash to pay for all of the products and services that don’t take cards (almost everything).

–          There are 2 tolls from Bogota to Lake Guatavita and 1 on the way back.

–          The park’s schedule is from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. every day except the first day of each month.

–          The entrance fee to the park is $12,000 pesos ($4 USD) for Colombians and $17,000 pesos ($6 USD) for foreigners.

–          The bus to Guatavita costs $9,000 pesos ($3 USD).

–          The lake is 3,100 meters (10,170 feet) above sea level.

–          Rainy seasons are between April and June and October and November.

I hope this helped you learn how to get to Lake Guatavita, a great place for an outdoor adventure with a history lesson!

Another great place to eat and ride your bike is the Sisga Dam. Click here to learn more about this spot!

Travel Guide

How to get to the Sutatausa Bluffs

Posted on October 3, 2018
how to get to the sutatausa bluffs, farallones de sutatausa, where to climb in colombia, climbing, green, andes, outdoor adventures close to bogota

The Farallones de Sutatausa, or the Sutatausa Bluffs or Cliffs (I’ll call them Bluffs from here on out), are an amazing place for a little bit of adventure. It’s a place you can come and go easily in a day and also a place that makes you want to stay a few days. You can rock climb, hike, camp and relax in beautiful hostels. This is how to get to the Sutatausa Bluffs!

You might also be interested in reading “how to get to the Neusa Dam,” for an awesome camping spot nearby Sutatausa.

How to get to the Sutatausa Bluffs

*The map to get to the Sutatausa Bluffs from Bogota is at the end of this post!

In Public Transportation:

  1. In Bogotá, go to the Portal del Norte, which is Bogota’s North Bus Terminal.
  2. Take a bus to Ubaté, which costs about $10,000 pesos or about US $3.50.
  3. Tell the bus driver you’re going to the entrace to the Farallones de Sutatausa. I recommend you look at the map below in Street View to get an idea of where you need to get off. The road to the bluffs is about 5 minutes from the town of Sutatausa, has a sign that points you towards the bluffs, and has a store right next to it called “Parador las Brisas.” Be watching!
  4. Walk along this unpaved road and you’ll get to a fork in the road. Go right until you get to la tienda de Don Antonio (tienda is a small store in Spanish).
  5. From there, you have three options: (1) go up the mountain to climb or to hike to the top of the bluffs on a trail that starts right in front of the store, (2) hike to the right of the store on a stone trail to climb or to hike to the top of the bluff, or (3) hike to the left towards a hostel, Kamp Nattivo, and to other trails that make it to the top.
  6. For more information on these options, read the “what to do at the Sutatausa Bluffs” section below.

In a Car:

With a GPS: enter “Tienda DON Antonio, Sutatausa, Cundinamarca” into Google Maps or Waze and follow the directions.

Without a GPS:

  1. From Bogota, exit the city going north.
  2. Stay on the highway until you get to a bridge after you pass a toll. Don’t go over the bridge. Instead, take the road that goes right, which then curves left and goes under that same bridge.
  3. Stay on this road until the net bridge. Go over it, staying right where it splits in two. Follow this road until you get to a Homecenter on the right. A little later, go right where there’s a sign towards Zipaquirá and Ubaté.
  4. Stay on your left to go over the next bridge, which curves right, following the signs to Ubaté.
  5. Not long afterwards, you’ll get to a round-about. Take the second exit.
  6. Stay on this road all the way to the entrance to the bluffs, which will be on the right. I recommend you look at the map below in Street View to get an idea of where you need to turn right. The road to the bluffs is about 5 minutes from the town of Sutatausa, has a sign that points you towards the bluffs, and has a store right next to it called “Parador las Brisas.”
  7. Get on the unpaved road towards the bluffs and stay right where the road splits in two to get to la tienda de Don Antonio (tienda is a small store in Spanish). You can park there and the cost of parking is to buy something in the store.
  8. From there, you have three options: (1) go up the mountain to climb or to hike to the top of the bluffs on a trail that starts right in front of the store, (2) hike to the right of the store on a stone trail to climb or to hike to the top of the bluff, or (3) drive to the left of the store to a hostel, Kamp Nattivo, and to other trails that make it to the top.
  9. For more information on these options, read the “what to do at the Sutatausa Bluffs” section below.

What to do at the Sutatausa Bluffs:

Climb

One of the best spots to go bouldering in all of Colombia is right underneath the Sutatausa Bluffs. You can find boulders from V0 to V12 and the rock is bomber. You can simply take your crash pad and start climbing (or rent it from Kamp Nattivo), but if you want a guide, you can stop by Kamp Nattivo , which is to the left from Don Antonio’s store, and get one – its not much of a guidebook, more like pieces of paper, but it works. There are boulders right in front of Don Antonio’s store and upwards and to the right of the store in the pine forest you can see from there.

There is also some great sport climbing on the bluffs themselves, up to 5.14a. You can find the routes going right from the store on the stone trail. If you need a guide, you can go to Kamp Nattivo and they’ll get you good to go. If you’re wondering where to climb in Colombia or close to Bogota, this is one of the best options!

Go Hiking

The Sutatausa Bluffs have a lot of trails to get to the top. There are two most well-known hikes. The first one is directly in front of Don Antonio’s Store. The trail is very well developed and is pretty steep. The second one is to the right of the store and starts on an unpaved road that becomes a stone trail that makes it to the top.

You have to hike up to the top! The landscape around the place is incredible, with really uniquely shaped mountains. So make sure you turn around when you rest during the hikes to admire the landscape. Also, take some food to have a picnic, rest and enjoy the view from the top. And don’t forget to hike along the top, since there are some amazing formations there.

Go Camping

You can camp under the stars and surrounded by mountains in lots of places: Quinta de Fragua, which is right to the right of Don Antonio’s store, Kamp Nattivo, which is a few minutes to the left, or up on the mountain with Don Antonio’s permission and only on his property.

Kamp Nattivo is a hostel created by a climber, one of the climbers who most developed this area, and is an incredibly comfortable and beautiful place. It has unique structures in the woods, they have a stellar customer service and if you see photos of the place, you’ll want to go stay there. So go Google Kamp Nattivo and go get to know it!

Take Photos

As always, you have to take photos. This place has a unique, gorgeous landscape. And everyone knows photos are best with action, and what better action than people enjoying, hiking and climbing with an amazing background?

Some things to know:

–          You can rent crash pads to go bouldering at the hostel, Kamp Nattivo.

–          This is a stellar place to go bouldering and sport climbing.

–          To pay for parking at Don Antonio’s store, just buy something in the store.

–          Take cash to pay for the bus, something at the store and for places that won’t accept your card, which is most places.

–          In 1541, the area’s natives collectively committed suicide, preferring it to falling in the hands of Spaniard missionaries.

–          There’s 1 toll on the way to the bluffs and 0 on the way back.

 

I hope this blog post helped you learn how to get to the Sutatausa Bluffs (or Farallones de Sutatausa) and a little more. But mostly, I hope you go climb in this wonderful area.

If you’re looking for another place to climb, check out this blog post about Suesca, the most popular climbing spot close to Bogota!

Travel Guide

How to get to Mongui

Posted on September 14, 2018
how to get to mongui, what to do, laguna negra, black lagoon, oceta paramo, laguna negra, paramo de oceta, hiking

As it turns out, “the world’s most beautiful paramo” (an alpine ecosystem in the Andes) is right next to “Boyaca’s most beautiful town!” Really, the Oceta Paramo and Mongui are known for that, respectively. Just knowing that makes Mongui a place to go, especially in December when the streets light up with millions of Christmas lights. A random fact: 25% of Colombia’s supply of balls comes from Mongui. So if you need a ball and want to travel, Mongui is the perfect place. This is how to get to Mongui.

You might also like: how to get to Isla Fuerte.

How to get to Mongui

*The map to get to Mongui from Bogota is at the end of this post!

In a car

With a GPS (highly recommended): type in “Mongui, Boyaca” in Waze or Google Maps and follow the directions.

Without a GPS:

  1. Exit Bogota heading north. Stay on the main road, following the signs to Tunja or Sogamoso when the road may split.
  2. Right before Tunja, stay on your left. The road will split in two and the left-side road will take you to Sogamoso instead of straight into the heart of Tunja. There are signs, so be watching for them!
  3. Stay on this road, following signs to Sogamoso. You’ll go straight through Paipa. Stay on the main road.
  4. You will soon get to a round-about where a sign will indicate that you can go towards Tibabosa or Nobsa. Take the second exit, towards Nobsa, and stay on the main road.
  5. The exit to go up the mountain to Mongui will be on your right. The sign is right between the fork in the road, so be watching. It is right after a restaurant with blue windows.
  6. Drive up the windy road. From here on out I suggest you use the map below, because this could get confusing. When you get to the fork in the road with a virgin’s statue in the middle, go right and drive all the way to the Mongui’s main plaza.

On Public Transportation

  1. Go to Bogota’s Bus Terminal (search Terminal de Transporte on Google Maps or Waze) and take a bus from there to Sogamoso. It will cost about $25,000 Colombian pesos or $8.50 USD.
  2. Once you get to Sogamoso’s bus terminal, take a bus from there to Mongui.
  3. The bus drops you off at the main plaza.

What to do in Mongui:

Hike to the Laguna Negra (Black Lagoon) and the Ocetá Paramo:

As I said before, the Oceta Paramo is known as the world’s most beautiful paramo. Now, I haven’t been to all of the world’s paramos, but this one is the most beautiful I’ve seen. You can get there and to the Laguna Negra walking from Mongui or in a car, going around the mountain. We’ve camped 3 nights there and they have been some of the best camping nights in my life. You have to see this place, even if it’s on a day trip. We actually have an entire blog post dedicated to the lagoon. Click here to read how to get to the Laguna Negra!

Buy some balls:

Mongui makes 25% of Colombia’s balls and exports even more. At the main plaza, at least one in every four shops has balls hanging inside and outside the buildings. They’re really good, handmade, and the perfect souvenir with which to remember the town.

Go to Lake Tota:

Lake Tota is Colombia’s biggest lake, so it’s worth giving it a visit on your trip to or from Mongui. My recommendation is you go on the way to or back because it’s a good 50 km (30 miles) from Mongui and it can be a full-day activity. You can have a picnic, eat at a restaurant, walk around, fish, etc. You can also camp there, and let me tell you – the sunsets and sunrises at Lake Tota are dreamy! You have to take your camera.

Relax, walk around, be a tourist:

Other blogs will recommend you just sit back and relax in Mongui. And I would have to agree because it is so calm and quaint. What I disagree with is that there isn’t anything to do. Please, if there are mountains around you there’s lots to do! And relaxing and resting is so much more gratifying after an adventure.

Some things to know:

–          The drive to Mongui takes about 3.5 hours.

–          If you’re going to walk from Mongui to the Laguna Negra, I recommend you hire a guide because they know how to deal with locals who don’t like tourists.

–          Make sure you take cash to pay for the products and services you can’t pay with your card (most things).

–          Mongui’s famous balls are handmade.

–          Lake Tota is about 50 km, or 30 miles, from Mongui.

–          There are 3 tolls from Bogota to Mongui.

 

I hope this has helped you learn how to get to Mongui and that it motivates you to visit this lovely town!

If you’re interested in visiting a fun town close to Bogota, read this blog post on how to get to Suesca.

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