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Travel Guide

Everything you Need to Know to Summit Nevado Santa Isabel

Posted on August 9, 2022
how to summit Nevado Santa Isabel-1

If you’ve read our blogs before, you know we prefer doing things on our own. We’re also aware it’s not always possible, and summiting Nevado Santa Isabel is one of those times. I wrote this blog to give you information, from our experience, on how to summit Nevado Santa Isabel – all the way from getting ready, to finding a good guide, to reaching the peak. (Check out our video at the end of this post!)

How to get to Nevado Santa Isabel

Fly or drive to Pereira or Manizales, the two closest cities.

From there, your driver and guide will take care of everything else. The road in Parque los Nevados is absolutely terrible for about 3 hours, so you need a hardcore 4×4 to get to the hike. Entrance to the national park is restricted to certified guiding agencies only.

Guide Services

A quick Google search will get you a myriad of contacts for guide companies ranging from 600,000 to 800,000 Colombian pesos per person (USD 150 to 200).

We chose Montañas Colombianas. It worked out perfectly and, to our surprise, they were on time for eveything, which is saying a lot in Colombia. They’re on the more expensive side, but it was worth it. There’s a saying in Colombia: “Lo barato sale caro” or “cheap now, costly later,” but actually more like “you get what you pay for.” That’s definitely the case with Montañas de Colombia.

Two things to keep in mind: the more people you go with, the less it’ll cost. We went with 2 others, and we loved that group size of 4. It made it a little more affordable, and it’s a good group size for some bonding over an adventure. Then, all that’s left is to choose a date. The season with the least rain is December through March, but there may be no snow on the way up to the glacier (since no rain = no snow). We got extremely lucky and got a perfect day with LOTS of snow on the summit while we hiked up to it. Once we got to the snow line, the sky was blue and it was the perfect day. I’ll link the video below if you want to watch it!

Our training to summit the mountain

We trained very informally for this hike because, truly, anyone can do it. Still, we wanted to be over prepared. This hike actually gets you to a nice elevation, to the point where you could get mild altitude sickness. So, to lower the possibility of that happening, we went on some hikes in Bogota. I think it also helped that facemasks were mandatory at the time, so we also had restricted oxygen!

Living in Bogota will help you train for hiking Nevado Santa Isabel, since you’re already starting at a high elevation. You can go enjoy some hikes, such as Monserrate, Quebrada la Vieja, Matarredonda or La Valvanera in Chia. All of those are links you can click to find out how to get there!

What gear do you need?

This is a part that got a little expensive for us. You do need some proper gear for this hike, as it’s kind of technical, quite steep and the weather is ever-changing. Getting water-proof clothes is super important, mostly because if you get wet you may have to turn back due to the cold and possible hypothermia. You don’t want your clothes to hold you back from summiting Nevado Santa Isabel!

We decided to buy the minimum gear we needed because it’s high quality stuff that we’re going to use in our lives and is probably going to last a long time. It’s already paid off, so it was a worthwhile investment! We bought Quechua products from Decathlon because they have a wide range of prices for beginner to pro gear, and it’s all good.

 Gear we bought to hike Nevado Santa Isabel:

  • Waterproof Jacket
  • Waterproof Pants
  • Waterproof Boots
  • Waterproof Gloves
  • Fleece sweater (dries quickly)
  • Quick-drying shirt

Gear we didn’t buy because we had or borrowed it:

  • 30-40L backpack, waterbottle, sun lotion, head lamps, sun glasses (UV 400 filter), dry bags.

Recommended gear we didn’t actually use:

  • Fleece hat, first aid kit with thermal blanket, wool socks.

There’s also some gear you really shouldn’t buy because its only for hiking in the snow or technical ice climbing, and there’s not a lot of that in Colombia. Make sure your guide service includes the following gear in their price:

  • Crampons
  • Helmet
  • Gaiters
  • Ice axes (piolets)
  • Trekking poles

Where to Stay

This is another thing you don’t have to worry about. You also won’t be camping or anything, since this is a one-day hike. Hidden in a location only the gnarliest of 4×4’s can reach is a gorgeous hostel. It’s called Refugio el Cisne and it has warm water and WiFi. It only has space heaters, and they’re on a schedule, so it is pretty cold. But it’s gorgeous and the beds and blankets are SO warm. A huge plus is that the meals are big and absolutely delicious. This is where you’ll stay after the first acclimation hike for one night before getting up at 1 a.m. for your summit attempt.

How to summit Nevado Santa Isabel

For those of you who, like me, like knowing what you’re getting into in detail, this is what your 2-day trip might look like based on our experience:

  • Day 1, 5 a.m.: the 4×4 picks you up from Pereira or Manizales (or Santa Rosa de Cabal, but you can’t get here directly on a plane) for a bumpy 5-6 hour ride into the mountains. The ride includes a delicious breakfast stop.
  • 11 a.m.: acclimation hike to Laguna Verde. The idea is for you to get used to the altitude (over 4,000 meters or 13,000 feet) and for the guide to see how well off you are to set the pace for the following day. The hike is gorgeous.
  • 4 p.m.: lunch at the hostel
  • 5 p.m.: equipment and safety workshop on how to put on and use crampons, ice axe and gaiters.
  • 6:30 p.m.: dinner
  • 8 p.m.: well-deserved bedtime
  • Day 2, 1 a.m.: wake up time and final preparation.
  • 1:30 a.m.: quick breakfast and get into the 4×4 to the trailhead
  • 3 a.m.: the hike begins (ideal time to summit is 6 hours, and then 3 back down, which is about what it looked like for us).
  • 6 a.m.: sunrise and a view of Nevado del Ruiz.
  • 8 a.m.: arrival at the snow line and putting on your ice climbing gear for the final push to the summit!
  • 9 a.m.: summit!
  • 12 noon: back at the trailhead for some food, celebration and the road back to Pereira or Manizales.
  • ** For an additional price, you can stop by the hot springs close to Santa Rosa de Cabal, but you have to book that ahead of time.

Watch this video of our experience – it was truly one of the best times of our lives! Now you know how to summit Nevado Santa Isabel, I hope you do it!

Travel Guide

How to get to Quebrada la Vieja

Posted on July 6, 2022
how to get to Quebrada la Vieja

The mountains to the east of Bogota are a unique place right outside the big city. You’re close to the city, but the cool air enters your nose like you’re in the backwoods of who-know-where. All the hikes on Bogota’s mountain range were closed for a few years because they were over-used. Thankfully, they reopened in 2022, although with more restrictions. You have to reserve a spot online and have until about 9:30 am to reach the top of the hike. This all makes for a nicer hike with less crowds. And let me tell you – the amount of people you could find here on a Sunday before the restrictions was CRAZY! Find out how to get to Quebrada la Vieja, make your reservation and more by reading on!

How to get to Quebrada la Vieja:

You can find the map to get to Quebrada la Vieja at the bottom of this post!

Walking:

  1. Get on a Transmilenio to get to the Calle 72 station and walk straight towards the mountains.
  2. On Calle 72, you’ll find the trailhead with a big sign. You’ll still be among the buildings, but on top of a little creek. Follow the trail.
  3. When the trail puts you back on the pavement, keep walking towards the mountain. When you get to the Circunvalar road, or Carrera 2 Este, you have to cross it underneath through a sketchy-looking tunnel. Exit the tunnel and the real trailhead will be right above.
  4. Start hiking and a few minutes in they’ll ask you for your reservation and point you in the right direction. Eventually, tou’ll get to a large clearing. If you continue on the trail towards the left, you can get to a lookout with a statue of a Virgin. If you continue on the trail towards the right and keep going, you can get to a lookout with a cross.

In a car:

To be honest, it’s best to get to Quebrada la Vieja from the Transmilenio or in an Uber.

If Ubering, type in this address and you’re good: Quebrada La Vieja, Cl. 71, Bogotá.

If you do head over in a car:

  1. The closest parking garage is called Park Elite on Calle 72 close to Carrera 7 (I know, that probably means nothing to you, so it’s marked on the map below).
  2. Walk up Calle 72 towards the mountains, eventually walking along a little creek and through a sketchy tunnel. The trailhead will be there right after the tunnel.
  3. Start hiking and a few minutes in they’ll ask you for your reservation and point you in the right direction. Eventually, you’ll get to a large clearing. If you continue on the trail towards the left, you can get to a lookout with a statue of a Virgin. If you continue on the trail towards the right and keep going, you can get to a lookout with a cross.

Is it safe?

During the hours Quebrada la Vieja is open to the public, there are officials spread out across the hike to help make it safe and a police officer at Claro de la Luna. So yes, it is safe!

Watch this video to see Quebrada la Vieja for yourself! It’s hard to believe this is INSIDE Bogotá..

How to make a reservation:

  1. Go to https://gme.acueducto.com.co/visitas/
  2. Click on any of the Quebrada la Vieja options. I recommend La Virgen or Alto de la Cruz because Claro de la Luna is an intermediate option from where you can go left to La Virgen or right towards Alto de la Cruz. The “Paramo” option is a longer hike but is usually not available.
  3. Fill out the information and you’re good to go! You have to show your reservation when you get there.

Some things to know:

  • There is no entrance fee for the Quebrada la Vieja trail.
  • Pets are not allowed on the trail.
  • The trail is open Tuesday to Friday from 5:00 to 9:00 am and Weekends from 6:00 to 11:00 am. It’s not open on Mondays and, if the Monday is a holiday, it won’t be open on Tuesday.
  • The hike to the Virgin is 1.3 km and 1.7 km to the Cross.
  • You’re only allowed to go to one lookout per visit, so if you want to get to know the Virgin and the Cross, you’ll have to go two separate days.
  • If you have any questions, write to me on Instagram!

What to do at Quebrada la Vieja:

Have a breakfast picnic while you gaze at Bogota from above.

Take care of your surroundings: people sometimes damage beauty while they try to enjoy it; please try not to! One of the amazing things about Quebrada la Vieja is how wild it feels even though you’re literally minutes from one of the world’s most populated cities. Let’s keep it that way.

Take pictures of towering eucalyptus and pine trees, the morning sun rays splitting the air, the cold morning air visibly entering and exiting your lungs, and Bogota, much smaller from above.

Interested in getting to know the outdoors close to Bogota? I recommend you check out Choachi and all there is to do around there!
Travel Guide

How to get to the Neusa Dam

Posted on January 2, 2018
how to get to the Neusa Dam, Camping at the Neusa Dam, Reflection on Water, mountains, andes, sunrise

One of the most popular dams close to Bogota is the Neusa dam. Only an hour and a half away from Bogota, this dam makes for a great spot for outdoor activities and is especially well-known for its camping. What’s best about this place is that it’s so dam big that even though it’s a popular spot, it doesn’t feel saturated with people. Here’s how to get to the Neusa Dam and some things you should know about it!

*Bored of the city? Check out this blog post for a list of places to do outdoor activities close to Bogota!

How to get to the Neusa Dam

You can find the map to get to the Neusa Dam at the bottom of this post!

In Public Transportation:

  1. In Bogota, make your way to the Portal del Norte, which is a bus station in the north of the city (you can plan your route there from your location on Google Maps).
  2. Take a bus to Zipaquira, which will cost about $5,000 COP ($1.70 USD). Once you’re there, ask for a bus that will take you straight to the Neusa Dam. This one costs about $4,000 COP ($1 USD). Both buses, and actually all buses, will have signs attached to their windshields saying where they are headed.
  3. After climbing up the road to the Neusa Dam, the bus will drop you off at the entrance, where there’s a fork in the road to go left or right. To the left about 1 kilometer, you’ll find the Dam’s administration, where you pay, and then one of the camping areas, called “Chapinero,” with 5 camping spots if you keep going. To the right, you’ll find the other camping area, called “Laureles,” with 7 camping spots. The camping to the right is more popular because of the pine forests. We recommend zone 4 of Laureles.

In a Car:

With a GPS: type in “Embalse Neusa Park” on Waze or Google Maps and follow the directions.

Without a GPS:

  1. In Bogota, drive north on the Autopista and leave the city. Keep heading north until you reach the first bridge. Don’t go over it. Follow directions to Chia, taking a road to the right, which will then curve to the left, under the bridge.
  2. Stay on this road until the next bridge. Go over this bridge, staying on the right. Continue on this road until you see a Homecenter on your right. Shortly after, you’ll take a right where there’s a sign for Zipaquira and Ubate.
  3. Stay on this road until you get to a bridge. Stay on your left to go over the bridge, which will take you to the right, following the sign to Ubate.
  4. Shortly afterwards, you’ll run into a round-about. Take the second exit. This road is adjacent to the main road, but much quicker. When it runs back into the main road, get on it to the right.
  5. Soon, you’ll see a sign that says “Embalse del Neusa 14km.” There, get on the left and do a U-turn where the road allows it (in Spanish it’s a retorno). The entrance to go up to the Neusa Dam is the first entrance to the right after the U-turn.
  6. From there, just follow the main road and you’ll reach the main entrance of the Neusa Dam!
  7. At the entrance, there’s a fork in the road to go left or right. To the left about 1 kilometer, you’ll find the Dam’s administration, where you pay, and then one of the camping areas, called “Chapinero,” with 5 camping spots if you keep going. To the right, you’ll find the other camping area, called “Laureles,” with 7 camping spots. The camping to the right is more popular because of the pine forests.
  8. Find a picnic, or camping spot and park right next to it!

Click here to read some of our tips on car camping!

Prices

Camping at the Neusa Dam costs $60,000 pesos (15 USD) per person, and you can stay up to 3 nights with this. If you’re camping, you don’t have to pay an additional entrance fee. Don’t throw away your receipt, since park authorities will ask for it every night.

The entrance fee to the park for day-trips costs $6,000 pesos ($1.5 USD) for Colombians and $13,500 pesos ($4 USD) for foreigners.

To see all the prices for everything (cabins, fishing, grill, etc.), go to this link.

Some things to know:

  • Make sure you have cash, especially small bills for buses.
  • The Neusa Dam is open from 8:00 am to 4:00 pm for people going just for the day. Service hours for camping are from 8:30 am to 10:00 pm. The dam is open every day except Monday, or Tuesday if Monday is a holiday, to allow the environment a day to recover from the crowds.
  • This park is pet friendly.
  • If you have a boat or kayak, and a license to use it at the Neusa Dam, which you can get for free at the Ministry of Transport in Bogota, you can use it and go fishing in the dam. Each day of boat-use costs $26,500 COP ($9 USD).
  • The rainiest seasons are April to June and October to November.

What to do at the Neusa Dam:

The challenge: take a bike with you and bike around the dam! There’s a road that goes the whole way around the dam. Whichever way you go (left or right when you get to the dam), you’ll bike along an unpaved road until you enter Tausa, a nearby town, and then make your way to the unpaved road on the other side of the dam to continue your trek and make it back. If you’re up for the challenge of challenges, ride your bike from Bogota, ride around the dam, and then ride back!

Camp: the Neusa Dam is most well-known for its camping. That’s because in a country where there is a tiny amount of infrastructure for outdoor activities, this place is a breath of fresh air. The roads, though unpaved, are easy to drive along, and you don’t have to hike to your camping spot – you can park your car right next to your tent, only 15 meters from the water’s edge. It’s comfortable but still adventuresome, which means it draws crowds.

Pack for comfort: I say this because my brother and I didn’t do it right. We had little food, no fire, no warm place to sit while still outside of the tent, BUT we did have a thermos full of hot coffee. We’re used to camping simply, hours from the car. But we realized you can take a lot of things with you when you’re right next to your car. Take anything you need, such as to make a big fire, two foldable chairs, a guitar, a harmonica, TWO thermoses of hot coffee and lots of food.

Take pictures: especially at dawn. The place is beautiful, but at dawn there’s fog over the water, birds flying around, and the water is so still that everything is almost perfectly reflected.

Another ridiculously beautiful place, where you can also camp, is La Chorrera. This place is a must, since it houses Colombia’s tallest waterfall. It’s also only an hour and a half from Bogota!

Travel Guide

How to get to Las Moyas Trail

Posted on September 11, 2017
How to get to Las Moyas Trail, hike in bogota, colombia, nature

The Las Moyas Trail, or Sendero las Moyas, was closed for years. But it’s been open to the public since 2022, and the whole process was re-organized to be efficient, quick and safe. I appreciate Live Happy Colombia and the land owners, who opened this trail for people to enjoy it, while still taking care of the area and all its beauty. This is how to get to Las Moyas Trail!

But first, a comment from the heart. Bogota, with its mountains, could be like Santiago, Chile or Boulder, Colorado. If Colombia’s Eastern Mountains (Cerros Orientales) were full of hiking and mountain biking trails, Bogota would be completely different. However, that culture just doesn’t exist, and trails get damaged due to bad use or over-use when they do open. The only way that culture can change is by organizations taking the initative and taking the risk of opening lots of trails to share the load, teach people to take care of what they have and regulating their use. It looks like that’s already starting to happen, and we’re SO excited for what the future holds!

If you like hiking, click here to read about Quebrada la Vieja, which is 6 blocks from Las Moyas!

How to get to Las Moyas Trail

*Note: You can find the map to get to Las Moyas Trail at the bottom of this post!

Walking:

  1. Get to the Transmilenio station called Calle 76 and then walk to Carrera 7 (towards the mountain).
  2. Cross Carrera 7, and keep walking towards the mountain on Calle 74. You’ll get to the Circunvalar, which is Carrera 1. Cross it and continue on Calle 74, which bends to the left becoming Carrera 1 East.
  3. Turn right on Calle 77 and then take the next left, which is Carrera 2 East.
  4. Walk along this road until you find the entrance to the Horizontes – Las Moyas Trail. It’s on the right after a sign that points you to the Metropolitan Club.
  5. Hike for about 2 hours until you get to a boulder field past the antenna on the summit.

In a car:

With a GPS: Use Waze or Google Maps to look up “Umbral Cultural Horizontes” and follow the instructions. Parking is prohibited on the street, but there’s a parking area for the hike next to the Metropolitan Club (I marked the spot on the map).

Without a GPS:

  1. In Bogota, get to the Carrera 7 and go up towards the mountain on Calle 74 until you get to Carrera 2.
  2. Take a right on Carrera 2 and then take the next right turn and then your next right turn again to be on Diagonal 76. Cross the Circunvalar, which is Carrera 1.
  3. Once you cross the Circunvalar, the road will turn left becoming Carrera 1 East.
  4. Take the first right turn onto Calle 77 and then take a left where the street ends, which is Carrera 2 East.
  5. On this road, go right and park at the Metropolitan Club. The spot is marked on the map below. The Las Moyas Trail begins at the end of the road going up to the right.
  6. Hike for about 2 hours until you get to a boulder field past the antenna on the summit.

Some things to know:

  • The trail opens from Tuesday to Friday from 6-9:00 AM and you have to be starting the hike between 6 and 6:30 AM. Entry on the weekends is subject to group outings, which are organized on their Telegram.
  • The entry fee to Sendero las Moyas is $15,000 pesos, and you can buy a monthly “membership” for 60,000 pesos. This money goes towards the trails conservation and some social inclusion projects.
  • The trail is totally safe during the authorized hours.
  • The hike is 4.2 kilometers or 2.6 miles long.
  • To make a reservation and pay, click on this link to go to Live Happy Colombia’s website and follow the instructions. You’ll also find your QR code at that link, which you have to show to start hiking the trail.
  • Pets are not allowed.

What to do in Las Moyas:

Picnic on top of a rock: have your breakfast at the summit of Las Moyas Trail, with amazing landscapes whichever way you turn.

Take care of your surroundings: people sometimes damage beauty while they try to enjoy it, like when they’re eating on top of a boulder. Don’t graffiti the boulders or even engrave anything on them. Take everything you brought with you back to the city, even organic waste. The beauty of a pristine place is that it’s pristine. Let’s keep it that way.

This hike is my favorite one on Bogota’s eastern mountains, partly because it has some amazingly photogenic views. The only thing missing is the Pine Forest of Quebrada la Vieja but, you know, nothing’s perfect! I hope you get to it now that you know exactly how to get to Las Moyas Trail!

Read some more posts about outdoor adventures close to Bogota to get psyched for more!

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