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Travel Guide

How to Get to and What to Do in Cáqueza

How to get to and what to do in Caqueza

If you’ve traveled to Villavicencio, you’ve passed through Cáqueza. It’s well-known on the Bogotá-Villavicencio highway as one of the best places in the country to stop to eat “piquete” (fritanga – more on that later). What not everyone knows is that Cáqueza is a 5-star destination for nature lovers, which makes sense because of its mountains, rivers and warm weather. Here’s how to get to and what to do in Cáqueza!

Everything I mention here is marked on the map below!

If you’re interested in an even more gorgeous place with colder weather, read this post on how to get to Choachi!

How to Get to Cáqueza

In public transportation:

Take a Cootranscáqueza bus from Terminal de Transporte Salitre in Bogotá. The price is below – read on for more!

In a car:

  1. Enter “Cáqueza” in Google Maps or Waze and follow the directions.
  2. From Bogotá, take Avenida Boyacá south, practically all the way to Cáqueza. Just stay on the main road, following the signs to Chipaque, Cáqueza and Villavicencio.
  3. When you get to the intersection to enter Cáqueza, it’s very well signposted, and will be to the right.

What to do in Cáqueza:

Glamping

Cáqueza has a lot of glamping sites surrounded by nature. Glamping is usually best in colder climates, but the mountains and scenery around here make it an ideal place for glamorous camping.

This part of Colombia, along with Choachi and Fómeque, which are very closeby, has some of the BEST glamping we’ve seen. Click here to see them!

Hike to Cerro de Monruta and the Hanging Rock

Walking to Cerro de Monruta is like walking to Monserrate in Bogotá or the statue of the virgin in Villa de Leyva, but much easier. You reach an outlook with a gorgeous panoramic view of the town.

Right next to it is the Hanging Rock (not to be confused with the one in Ubaté), where you can take some great pictures.

Extreme Mountain Biking on the Cuchilla de Cáqueza

This place, which could translate to Razorback Ridge of Cáqueza has one of the most beautiful mountain biking trails I have ever seen. You have to ride up an unpaved road and then ride all the way down the ridge to the river.

It’s a technical descent that many cyclists come to because it is so incredible, always with the river below you… WAY below. It’s even worth coming if you’re not a cyclist.

Here’s a really cool video I found of this trail!

Eat some Grease at a Piqueteadero/Roastery

The piqueteaderos of Cáqueza are famous. Piqueteaderos are restaurants for eating fritanga, which can have any combination of beef, pork and chicken, criole potato, chorizo, blood sausage, pork rind, fried green plantains (patacones), ripe plantains, fried yucca… and more!

Eat until you’re bursting at the seams and then explore the town a bit to digest. The cathedral in this town is gigantic and beautiful, and the town is full of streets and viewpoints for walking.

Jump into the Cáqueza River

If you’re wanting to cool off, a great plan is to stop at the Waterfront of the Cáqueza River. There, you can leave your car next to the road and walk a few meters to the river for a dip. It’s a perfect plan in a very beautiful and natural environment, and I marked the place on the map below!

Other things to know:

  • There are a total of 2 tolls between Bogotá and Cáqueza.
  • The bus ticket to get here costs $9,000 Colombian pesos (less than 2 dollars).
  • The road to Cáqueza is in good conditions, but it can have a lot of traffic.
  • Make sure you take cash because a lot of stores and restaurants don’t take cards.
Travel Guide

How to get to Fómeque

how to get to Fomeque

Without a doubt, the most beautiful destination near Bogotá is the entire area behind its Eastern Mountain Range. The whole area that is Choachi, Fómeque and Ubaqué is in the middle of some of the most beautiful mountains we have ever seen. Plus, most of Fómeque is inside Chingaza National Natural Park! It’s a place you need to get to know because of the nature around it, and it gets bonus points because the town itself is beautiful (especially the main square – more about that below). Here’s how to get to Fómeque!

All points and routes are marked on the map below!

How to get to Fómeque

In public transportation:

It’s REALLY simple. Take a bus from the Cootransfomeque terminal in Bogotá. The address is weird: Ac. 6 #1528, but it’s on Calle 6, one block from Avenida Caracas (walking away from the mountains). I left the price below… read on!

In a car:

  1. Write “Fómeque” in Google Maps or Waze and follow the instructions for how to get to Fómeque. In Bogota, take the Circunvalar south-bound to the Universidad Distrital, where you turn left to exit towards Choachi.
  2. Enter Choachi and follow the map to start heading to Fómeque.

If you’re interested in Choachi too, click here to read about how to get there and more!

What to do in Fómeque:

Hike in Chingaza

Chingaza National Natural Park holds a special place in our hearts. It’s gorgeous, and too few people have been there.

It is one of Colombia’s largest National Parks. The park has entraces from the north through La Calera or from the south, through Fómeque. You’ll see a plethora of lagoons, and its mountains are awe-inspiring.

The only frustrating thing is that it can be difficult to get to some trails because of the TERRIBLE road conditions and the requirements to enter. To read more about how to get to Chingaza National Natural Park, click here!

Go Glamping

If you haven’t experienced glamping, you have to. It’s a combination of camping and glamour. It’s glamorous camping.

You usually sleep deep in the wilderness in domes or cabins made specifically for enjoying nature. The structures are almost always rustic but elegant, offer good food and often have a jacuzzi right next to them.

Click here to read about the BEST glamping near Choachi, Fómeque and even Cáqueza!

Visit Parque Jesús Maestro

Walk around the beautiful town and get to know it, but especially Jesús Maestro Park. This is the main square, and you can tell they have put some love into it because it’s a beauty. Green is how I would describe it, and the town’s cathedral is imposing and attractive.

The square and its surroundings are the perfect place to have a small town lunch, whether you’re passing through Fómeque or it’s your destination.

Try Artisan Beer

Fómeque has a craft brewery known for its beautiful bottles with Colombian animals, such as the jaguar and the spectacled bear.

Stop by for a refreshing drink and support a cool local business!

To see more activities in Fómeque, here’s a link to the official tourist brochure of the Mayor’s Office of Fómeque.

Other things to know:

  • There are 0 tolls from Bogotá to Fómeque.
  • The bus ticket to Fómeque costs $13,000 Colombian pesos (about 3 dollars).
  • After Choachi, the road is still paved, but not in a great condition.
  • Take cash for paying in lots of stores and restaurants that don’t accept cards payments.

Travel Guide

How to Get to Las Lajas Sanctuary

How to get to Las Lajas Sanctuary

Is it worth your while to drive to the middle of nowhere to see an imposing architectural and historic wonder towering over a gorgeous river? The answer is absolutely yes, although I also have to say the experience isn’t quite as magical as other travel bloggers make it seem. Though Las Lajas Sanctuary is everything they say it is, you’d definitely have to squint a little to ignore some of the negative sides of it, which is relentless crowds (we went on an average Thursday morning) and the gray, disorganized mass tourism infrastructure around the cathedral. That being said, the trip is still worth your while for a foray into culture, history and nature, all at the same time! This is how to get to Las Lajas Sanctuary in Nariño, Colombia.

Want to read about one of our favorite places in Colombia? Click here!

How to get to Las Lajas Sanctuary

I’ve marked all the places and some directions in this travel guide in the map at the end of this post!

If you’re driving, look up “Las Lajas Sanctuary” Google Maps or Waze and follow the directions (there’s 1 toll between Pasto and Ipiales).

If you’ve decided to take a taxi, at what I’d consider an unnecessarily steep price, they’ll take you and some will even work as your guides for a day trip. Finding someone who will do this isn’t exactly straightforward, but if you ask around at your hotel, friends or someone trustworthy, pretty much everyone will know someone who offers this service.

If public transportation is your method of choice (probably a good idea because its inexpensive and easy), here’s what you need to know.

From Pasto:

  1. Take a bus from the bus terminal in Pasto to Ipiales (costs $15,000 pesos, or 3.3 dollars).
  2. Take a bus from the bus terminal in Ipiales straight to the parking lot of Las Lajas (costs $2,500 pesos, or half a dollar).

From Ecuador:

  1. Take a bus from the Quito bus terminal (or any other) towards Tulcán, which is on the border with Colombia.
  2. If the bus doesn’t take you straight to the border (a location called Puente Internacional de Rumichaca), take a quick taxi ride from Tulcán to the border.
  3. Once you’ve made it into Colombia, you can either take another quick taxi ride straight to the Las Lajas Sanctuary or grab a bus to Ipiales and then grab another bus to Las Lajas Sanctuary.

Buses will take you back to Ipiales from Las Lajas Sanctuary until 9 p.m.

Watch this video!

What to do at Las Lajas Sanctuary:

Now that you know how to get to Las Lajas Sanctuary, here’s what we think is worth your while to do!

Take advantage and walk!

Since you made it all the way out here, you might as well view the cathedral from every possible vantage point! From my memory, I believe there are 5 or 6 different lookouts with amazing views of the cathedral, the waterfall (yep, there’s a waterfall) and the river below. It ends up being a lot of uphill walking, and being 2,900 meters (almost 10,000 feet) above sea level doesn’t help.

Paseo de olla.

This is an EXTREMELY Colombian tradition, where families will travel out of the city, usually on Sunday, taking a pot (olla in Spanish) full of potatoes, onion, spices, hen, plantain and other delicacies with them. Paseo de olla translates to pot trip. Families will usually cook everything at their destination. At Las Lajas Sanctuary, you can buy one of these pots full of traditional Colombian food and eat on some stumps while you look up at the giant cathedral.

Visit the inexpensive museum and the inside of the cathedral.

I’m not usually a museum guy, but since it cost $3,000 pesos (66 cents), we gave it a try and it was worth it. The inside of the cathedral is also amazing.

Ride the Cable Car.

On your way to Las Lajas Sanctuary, I recommend you tell the bus driver you’ll be getting off at the cable cars. That way, you can arrive at the Sanctuary with style, enjoying the view of the entire canyon and cathedral from WAY above. It’s also a good idea because then, when you’re ready to leave, you can walk up to the buses and taxis through a gorgeous walkway with traditional foods and souvenirs jam-packed on either side of you all the way there.

The cable car ride costs $10,000 pesos (2.2 dollars) one way and $16,000 pesos (3.5 dollars) there and back. The price goes up on weekends and holidays, to $12,000 pesos one way and $20,000 roundtrip.

Crossing the Border

Whether you’re entering or exiting Colombia, the key word is patience. You never know what you’re going to find at the border. It could be a pristine day and a quick process, or it may take you hours to get a stamp on your passport. This could be due to protests going on in Colombia or Ecuador, or because of Venezuelans migrating to-and-fro. Just wait it out and you’ll be on your way!

Click here to read a little bit about this place’s history!

Travel Guide

How to get to Quebrada la Vieja

how to get to Quebrada la Vieja

The mountains to the east of Bogota are a unique place right outside the big city. You’re close to the city, but the cool air enters your nose like you’re in the backwoods of who-know-where. All the hikes on Bogota’s mountain range were closed for a few years because they were over-used. Thankfully, they reopened in 2022, although with more restrictions. You have to reserve a spot online and have until about 9:30 am to reach the top of the hike. This all makes for a nicer hike with less crowds. And let me tell you – the amount of people you could find here on a Sunday before the restrictions was CRAZY! Find out how to get to Quebrada la Vieja, make your reservation and more by reading on!

How to get to Quebrada la Vieja:

You can find the map to get to Quebrada la Vieja at the bottom of this post!

Walking:

  1. Get on a Transmilenio to get to the Calle 72 station and walk straight towards the mountains.
  2. On Calle 72, you’ll find the trailhead with a big sign. You’ll still be among the buildings, but on top of a little creek. Follow the trail.
  3. When the trail puts you back on the pavement, keep walking towards the mountain. When you get to the Circunvalar road, or Carrera 2 Este, you have to cross it underneath through a sketchy-looking tunnel. Exit the tunnel and the real trailhead will be right above.
  4. Start hiking and a few minutes in they’ll ask you for your reservation and point you in the right direction. Eventually, tou’ll get to a large clearing. If you continue on the trail towards the left, you can get to a lookout with a statue of a Virgin. If you continue on the trail towards the right and keep going, you can get to a lookout with a cross.

In a car:

To be honest, it’s best to get to Quebrada la Vieja from the Transmilenio or in an Uber.

If Ubering, type in this address and you’re good: Quebrada La Vieja, Cl. 71, Bogotá.

If you do head over in a car:

  1. The closest parking garage is called Park Elite on Calle 72 close to Carrera 7 (I know, that probably means nothing to you, so it’s marked on the map below).
  2. Walk up Calle 72 towards the mountains, eventually walking along a little creek and through a sketchy tunnel. The trailhead will be there right after the tunnel.
  3. Start hiking and a few minutes in they’ll ask you for your reservation and point you in the right direction. Eventually, you’ll get to a large clearing. If you continue on the trail towards the left, you can get to a lookout with a statue of a Virgin. If you continue on the trail towards the right and keep going, you can get to a lookout with a cross.

Is it safe?

During the hours Quebrada la Vieja is open to the public, there are officials spread out across the hike to help make it safe and a police officer at Claro de la Luna. So yes, it is safe!

Watch this video to see Quebrada la Vieja for yourself! It’s hard to believe this is INSIDE Bogotá..

How to make a reservation:

  1. Go to https://gme.acueducto.com.co/visitas/
  2. Click on any of the Quebrada la Vieja options. I recommend La Virgen or Alto de la Cruz because Claro de la Luna is an intermediate option from where you can go left to La Virgen or right towards Alto de la Cruz. The “Paramo” option is a longer hike but is usually not available.
  3. Fill out the information and you’re good to go! You have to show your reservation when you get there.

Some things to know:

  • There is no entrance fee for the Quebrada la Vieja trail.
  • Pets are not allowed on the trail.
  • The trail is open Tuesday to Friday from 5:00 to 9:00 am and Weekends from 6:00 to 11:00 am. It’s not open on Mondays and, if the Monday is a holiday, it won’t be open on Tuesday.
  • The hike to the Virgin is 1.3 km and 1.7 km to the Cross.
  • You’re only allowed to go to one lookout per visit, so if you want to get to know the Virgin and the Cross, you’ll have to go two separate days.
  • If you have any questions, write to me on Instagram!

What to do at Quebrada la Vieja:

Have a breakfast picnic while you gaze at Bogota from above.

Take care of your surroundings: people sometimes damage beauty while they try to enjoy it; please try not to! One of the amazing things about Quebrada la Vieja is how wild it feels even though you’re literally minutes from one of the world’s most populated cities. Let’s keep it that way.

Take pictures of towering eucalyptus and pine trees, the morning sun rays splitting the air, the cold morning air visibly entering and exiting your lungs, and Bogota, much smaller from above.

Interested in getting to know the outdoors close to Bogota? I recommend you check out Choachi and all there is to do around there!
Travel Guide

How to Get to Refugio la Roca

refugio la roca, the rock refuge, where to climb in colombia, climbing, How to get to La Mojarra, Santander

There’s amazing places to climb everywhere, and there are great places to stay everywhere. But the sheer quality of the climbing and lodging at La Mojarra and Refugio la Roca is just something else. We can, without a doubt, say this is our favorite place to climb because of the entire experience. The climbing itself is on orange South American sandstone (more on the climbing later) and the hostel is a wonderful combination of a modern glamping destination for tourists and a simple, down-to-earth place for climbers to stay at a good price. This is how to get to Refugio la Roca!

There’s a new climbing destination being developed close by – click here to read about it!

How to Get to Refugio la Roca

(See a map to get to Refugio la Roca at the end of this post!)

In Public Transportation:

  1. From Bogota: grab a bus from the Transportation Terminal or North Terminal heading to Bucaramanga (aprox. $75,000 COP). Tell the driver you’re getting off at Los Curos (you may want to remind them about 6 or 7 hours into the drive). After you get off, cross the road and wait for a Flota Cachira or La Culona bus going to Los Santos. Tell the driver you’re getting off at Refugio la Roca, and you’ll be there in about an hour! It will be on your left. All these spots are marked on the map below.
  2. From the Airport/Bucaramanga/Piedecuesta: take a taxi to the bus station of Flota Cachira or La Culona in Piedecuesta (marked on the map below). Tell the driver you’re getting off at Refugio la Roca, which will be on your left. The trip takes about an hour and a half.

In a Car:

With a GPS: look for “Refugio la Roca” and follow the directions.

Without a GPS:

  1. From Bogota: exit the city going north. After the first toll, take a right at the bridge to go under it. At the next bridge, go over it while staying in the right lanes. Then follow directions to Zipaquira, Ubate, Susa, Barbosa and San Gil. There really is only one main road, so it isn’t too complicated. After going down Pescadero (the canyon), you’ll drive a while and get to Los Curos. Take a left on this narrow road and drive up all the way through the toll, which you don’t pay headed this way, and to Refugio la Roca (don’t go right towards Piedecuesta when given the option). The whole trip takes 8-9 hours and the roundtrip tolls cost $ 110,000 COP in total. There is ample space for parking at Refugio la Roca.
  2. From Piedecuesta: get on the highway exiting the city towards Pescadero and Bogota. When you see a sign to Mesa de los Santos, go right. Stay on the main road. After a while, it will end at another road, where you’ll want to go right. Pass the toll, which you don’t pay this way, and you’ll be at Refugio la Roca on the left in about 40 minutes. There is ample space for parking there.

Refugio la Roca

This hostel is truly a unique place: it welcomes weekend city tourists and climbers, which are two quite different groups. Right on the edge of a cliff is where Refugio la Roca has its most exclusive lodges. Then there’s a variety of other places to stay, all the way to a more communal lodging style, where climbers tend to stay for long climbing trips (prices go from $490,000 pesos COP a night for the incredible lodges to $35,000 for the dorms). Climbers that stay for more than 5 nights, receive a 10% discount!

I’d say there are three things that we enjoy the most about Refugio la Roca (aside from climbing):

  • Food: of course, if a place has good food, we’re going to love it. The kitchen at Refugio la Roca makes some of the best food I’ve had, and at great prices. We’re usually there on a budget for a climbing trip, but that doesn’t stop us from being able to enjoy. Many of their plates are named after classic climbing routes from the park. There’s not much else to say other than to recommend some food: definitely get the chicken sandwich with added bacon, as well as four-cheese pizza on the weekends. If there’s fresh bread, buy all of it (especially the chocolate bread and cheese bread).
  • Beauty: this hostel really blends into the land where it’s located. There are so many trees, you can’t really tell how much there is or what it is from the road below. Most of the lodges are built as part of the cliff or the land, and there are platforms with amazing views where we love to sit and read. There’s something to be said about simplicity, and how it’s created very mindfully, it’s absolutely beautiful.
  • Work: one of the best trips we’ve had to La Mojarra was out of the blue when Bogota shut down due to Covid and work became virtual for 2 weeks. Refugio la Roca has WiFi, so we were able to work without too many issues. When the WiFi wasn’t good, we used data. Signal is best at the crag, though. We worked half the day and would then climb every day after work. If only every day were like that…

The Rock Climbing

This world-class crag is called “La Mojarra.” The rock here is sandstone. It’s mostly vertical climbing, but there are a few parts of the crag with some really gorgeous, steep sections. This doesn’t speak for everything, but the climbing tends to be between ledges, with a variety of moves in between. If I were to compare La Mojarra to any place, it would be the Obed in Tennessee, USA (not the roofs, but definitely the vertical climbing).

One of the best things about climbing at La Mojarra is the sheer amount of climbing. You can get on everything from a 5.8 to a 5.14, and each grade has a ton of climbs to try out (except 5.14 – there’s only one of those, but there are lots of projects). Actually, one thing we recently noticed was the sheer amount of 5-star 5.13a’s. We’ve also had some really enjoyable volume days during which we just climbed 5.10s and 5.11s. It seems like they never end!

The main crag has two entrances – one from Refugio la Roca and the old way from the road. Either way, you get to a “park ranger” hut, where you sign in and out, and the bolted lines begin. From there, you can walk about 30 minutes to the end of the crag, where there’s a via ferrata. If you cross it, there’s even more climbing, although it’s chossier because it’s newer and further away. If you head back towards the Refugio and a little further, you’ll find yet another area (La Reserva) that’s also a little chossier, but very cool. Refugio la Roca usually hosts a competition/festival every January where competitors climb on new routes, so they’re always being developed.

If you’re looking for an amazing place to climb in Colombia, I seriously recommend La Mojarra. The weather is warm, but dry, and it’s quite simply a good time. We’ve gotten to know a lot of great people from all over the world coming to climb here –  it’s part of the awesome experience.

What to Do at Refugio la Roca and Mesa de los Santos (click here)

Some Things to Know

  • There are 8 tolls from Bogota to Refugio la Roca and 8 on the way back – $110,000 COP round trip.
  • If you are driving from Bogota, you should stop just outside of San Gil and try the best chorizos in a restaurant called Doña Eustaquia.
  • The crag is open from 12:00-6:00pm on weekdays and 10:00am to 6:30pm on weekends and holidays. It’s closed on Mondays, but you can climb at La Reserva that day.
  • Climbers get a 10% discount on lodging at Refugio la Roca when staying more than 5 nights.
  • There is an entrance fee of $10,000 Colombian pesos for Rocas la Mojarra, but it’s free if you stay at Refugio la Roca. Other hostels have different deals. A 1-year pass costs $150,000 pesos.
  • All cell phone carriers connect really well at the crag, but the signal for Movistar and Virgin Mobile are best at the hostel.
  • There is a kitchen anyone can use. They also rent kitchen tools!
  • Book here!

Now that you know how to get to Refugio la Roca, let us know how it goes!

Click here to read about the most impressive climbing area in Colombia!

Travel Guide

How to Get to Mangoo Glamping

How to get to Mangoo Glamping

Mangoo Glamping is a quaint little area with lots of tents of different sizes, a pool and land around it for hiking and birdwatching. It’s about 30 minutes from the town of Melgar in what Colombians would call “hot country”… because it’s hot! If you’re looking for warm weather and hours by the pool, this is the place for you. Read on to discover how to get to Mangoo Glamping and what to do while you’re there!

Click here to read about glamping in Colombia!

How to Get to Mangoo Glamping

(See a map to get to Mangoo from Bogotá at the end of this post!)

In Public Transportation:

  1. Grab a bus at Bogota’s Bus terminal (marked on the map below) to Melgar. A one-way trip costs $25,000 to $35,000 Colombian pesos ($8-$10 USD) depending on the quality of the bus.
  2. Once at the bus terminal of Melgar, find the taxis and tell the driver you’re going to Mangoo Glamping in “Vereda Chimbi.” That’s the name of the area.
  3. At Vereda Chimbi, take a left at the intersection where there’s a sign to Mangoo Glamping and a shop called “Tienda La Estrella.” Go until you see another sign and head right. This tiny road will take you to your destination.
  4. A fair price for the taxi ride is $30,000 pesos. They may try to charge more, so the best idea is to settle a price before you get on the taxi. Just tell them the hostel is 5 minutes from the Vereda Chimbi intersection.

In a Car:

With a GPS: look for “Mangoo Glamping.” The problem here is it might take you to a spot right in Melgar. That is wrong. If you can’t find the right Mangoo Glamping, just check use the map below!

Without a GPS:

  1. Exit Bogota headed south on Autopista Sur/Carrera 30.
  2. Getting to Melgar is pretty simple. It’s popular enough that there are signs towards Melgar from right outside of Bogotá. Just make sure you follow the signs to Melgar/Girardot the whole way.
  3. Once you’re close, you’ll get the option to head to Melgar (right) or Girardot (left). The town names are written on the road, not a sign, and you’ll want to go right towards Melgar.
  4. Once here, it’s best to use a map. Stay on the main road and cut straight through Melgar. Once you’re on the other side, drive until you see a big entrance to an unpaved road on the right.
  5. Take this road for a few minutes and take a left at the intersection where there’s a sign to Mangoo Glamping and a shop called “Tienda La Estrella.” Go until you see another sign and head right. This tiny road will take you to your destination, where there is ample parking.

What to Do at Mangoo Glamping

Birdwatching

I’ll say it straight away, our favorite activity at Mangoo Glamping was birdwatching. You get to go on a beautiful hike under gorgeous trees all the way to a beautiful creek. Actually, when we got to the creek, it was a raging brown river, but it’s usually tiny – the kind of creek in which you walk barefoot on smooth round stones. You can really see bunches of rare species at Mangoo Glamping and Melgar in general, and the hostel will lend you binoculars to see them well. Of course, we preferred birdwatching through a camera lens because we got to capture those memories! If you haven’t watched our video yet, check it out right above.

Pool Times

Melgar is VERY hot, so you’ll want to be in the pool as much as possible, since it really is the only way to escape the heat. Practices some dives, have a drink and enjoy, because the pool is definitely the main attraction here.

Stargazing

One of the activities the hostel has is stargazing with a high-tech telescope. Sadly, it was cloudy while we were there, but they said the activity is incredible when the sky is even partially clear. It includes a more academic part before the actual gazing, which might not be for everyone. We did learn new things, though, so it was definitely worth it.

Some Things to Know

  • There are three types of tents, from tents for 2 people to family sized tents, ranging in prices from $280,000 to $450,000 pesos, depending on the tent and time of the year. All paid nights include breakfast.
  • The restaurant serves great food with main dishes that cost between $14,000 and $30,000 pesos.
  • Activities like birdwatching and stargazing cost $20,000 pesos per child and $40,000 per adult.
  • There are two tolls from Bogota to Melgar.
  • We would consider Mangoo Glamping a great, unique place to go with your family. It’s the sort of place we would go when we were kids – lots of nature and a pool – but with the added allure of glamping. That being said, we wouldn’t quite recommend it for a romantic getaway, unless you love hot weather.
  • Check them out on instagram here.

If you end up going to Mangoo Glamping, let us know how it went!

To read about an amazing glamping spot for a romantic getaway, click here!

Travel Guide

How to Get to Zipaquirá and the Salt Cathedral

how to get to zipaquirá, cómo llegar a zipaquirá

Zipaquirá is a town north of Bogotá known for its Salt Cathedral (more on that below!). We also know it as a great place to climb and bike! If you want to walk around and get to know the place or just do activities nearby, a visit is surely worth your while. This is how to get to Zipaquirá!

Click here to read our latest blog post!

How to Get to Zipaquirá

(See a map to get to Zipaquirá from Bogotá at the end of this post!)

In Public Transportation:

  1. First off, you need to get to Portal del Norte, where a lot of buses exit the city towards smaller towns to the north. It’s right on the Autopista (main highway), so you can get there on a taxi or on a Transmilenio (take pretty much any ‘B’ route, but especially B74, B75 and B13).
  2. Take a bus straight to Zipaquirá at Platform 2, South zone. Look for buses that say “Zipa.” The ride takes about 1 hour.

In a Car:

With a GPS: look for “Zipaquira” on Google Maps or Waze and follow the instructions.

Without a GPS:

  1. Exit Bogota headed north. Keep going, passing a toll, until you get to a bridge.
  2. Once at the bridge, do not cross the bridge. Keep right to go under it towards Chia.
  3. Right before Chia, you’ll get to another bridge. Go up the bridge, staying on the right to begin heading to Zipaquirá, and keep going that way.
  4. When you see a Homecenter, you’ll soon see a sign saying Zipaquirá is to the right. Go right shortly afterwards.
  5. When you get to yet another bridge, stay right following the signs to Zipaquirá and you’ll be there within a few minutes.

What to Do at Zipaquirá

Visit the Salt Cathedral

You may be asking yourself, “Is this a Cathedral made of salt?” Well, no. The Salt Cathedral is a Cathedral deep inside a salt mine right outside of Zipaquirá. Actually, it’s a very touristy attraction, but it is absolutely worth it. You get started walking into the dark salt mine, and it’s a treat from the start. My favorite part of walking inside is looking down into enormous black pits where you can spot workers continuing to mine salt in the most magnificent caverns I’ve ever seen. Of course, there’s also the Cathedral, which is pretty cool, but the real attraction is simply being inside such a huge, ancient mine. You can book tours here. There’s also a climbing wall right outside the mine! That takes us to the next point.

Climb

There’s a cliffside close to Zipaquirá that’s perfect for climbers of all levels! Access to Rocas del Abra is extremely easy and it has enough routes for a whole lot of sport climbing. I marked the spot on the map below. Make sure you pay before you enter and take care of the place. Access here has been blocked before by locals, so please make sure you don’t ruin everyone’s fun.

Bike

Zipaquirá is very hilly, one might even say mountainous, so it has cycling routes in every direction. Our favorite goes up to Páramo de Guerrero, and it’s a gorgeous ride the whole way. You can read about that ride here. Otherwise, we encourage you to explore Zipaquirá and its surrounding towns on a bike!

Walk around Town

If you’ve been to cities and towns in Colombia, you’ve probably realized every one of them has one, if not multiple plazas. Zipaquirá is one of those with multiple plazas. Walking through Zipaquirá is a lot of fun. You can see all the plazas, eat a whole bunch of typical food and visit museums (or so we’ve heard – we don’t love museums).

Some Things to Know

  • There is one toll from Bogota to Zipaquirá and none on the way back.

Now that you know how to get to Zipaquirá, definitely do so! There’s lots to do in the town and close by!

If you’d like to read about an amazing camping spot close to Zipaquirá, click here!

Travel Guide

How to Get to Monserrate Post-COVID-19

how to get to Monserrate post-COVID-19

If you’ve looked into what to do in Bogota, you’ve surely heard of Monserrate. From downtown Bogota, just look up to the mountains and it’ll be there with its imposing cathedral. Monserrate is a very well-known destination, and it is easy to reach! There have been some changes due to the COVID-19 pandemic, but everything is now open to the public. Keep reading to learn how to get to Monserrate post-COVID-19.

There is a giant statue on another peak across from Monserrate. That is Cerro de Guadalupe… it’s less touristy and you can read how to get there here!

How to Get to Monserrate Post-COVID-19

*The map to get to Monserrate is at the end of this post!

In Public Transportation:

(we recommend you arrive in public transportation because finding parking can be complicated)

  1. First, get to the Las Aguas Transmilenio Station. The routes that pass through this station are J23, J70 and J74.
  2. Exit the station headed north (with the mountains on your right) and then walk towards the mountains of Calle 21 or 22. You’ll pass Universidad de los Andes and Quinta de Bolivar.
  3. Once you get to the Ticket Office for the Funicular and Cable Cars, you have three options to get up to the cathedral – walking or on the Funicular or Cable Car. If you’re going to walk, the path is a little to the left (north) of the ticket office. Entry is free.

In a Car:

With a GPS: look for “Taquilla Funicular Monserrate, Bogotá” on Google Maps or Waze and follow the instructions. You can park in front of the building or in the area.

Without a GPS:

  1. What is important here is getting to the Circunvalar, the road that borders Bogota’s eastern mountains. You can get on this road lots of ways, but the easiest is Calle 26. Once on the road, head south until you hit Calle 21, where you’ll find the ticket office for Monserrate.
  2. You can park in front of the ticket office or in other parking lots close to downtown.
  3. From the ticket office, you can get up to Monserrate walking or on the funicular or cable car. The trailhead in less than a block north from the ticket office.

Click here to read about some more outdoor adventures close to Bogota!

What to Do at Monserrate

Eat Typical Colombian Food:

There are 2 restaurants on the mountain top. Eating up there on Monserrate is definitely a fun experience. Both restaurants serve delicious Colombian and international food starting at about $25,000 Colombian pesos ($10 dollars). Currently, since the coronavirus pandemic, you need to make a reservation to eat here. Make your reservation here!

Hike

We definitely recommend hiking up to Cerro de Monserrate. You can enjoy the landscape all the way up and get some good exercise done. Then, it’s definitely worth heading down on the funicular or cable car, since they’re also fun experiences. Before hiking, officials will have you fill out a form, and access to the trail is free. You can start the hike from 7:00 a.m. to 1:00 p.m.

Cable Cars and Funicular

If the 1-hour walk doesn’t sound like fun, you can take the cable cars or funicular. These comfortable trips are fun because you can watch Bogota get smaller and smaller as you slowly rise hundreds of meters. From Monday to Saturday, a one-way trip costs $13,000 pesos and round-trip costs $22,000 (about US $4 and $6). On Sundays, one way costs $7,500 and round-trip is $13,000 pesos (about US $2.5 and $4).

Watch the Sunset

The best part about Monserrate is the landscape! Truth is, people may visit it to see the cathedral or for the restaurants, but we’ve been there for the views. The sun just so happens to set right over Bogota as you watch from Monserrate, giving tourists a unique experience. The best way to do it is watch the sunset and then see the city light up with life and color. It’s actually a very beautiful experience!

Some Things to Know:

  • Monserrate’s hours are as follows: Monday and Wednesday from 6:30 a.m. to 6:00 p.m., Tuesday closed, Thursday to Saturday from 6:30 a.m. to 10:00 p.m. and Sundays from 6:30 a.m. to 5:00 p.m.
  • Monserrate will be closed on Tuesdays for maintenance.
  • All of Monserrate’s services are currently available after the COVID pandemic, although with social distancing measures and rules. It’s actually much more organized than before.
  • It’s no longer mandatory to wear a mask!
  • Pets are not allowed.
  • If you plan on paying with cash, the rule is you need to pay the exact amount.

Now that you know how to get to Monserrate post-COVID-19, there’s no use waiting anymore. Let us know how it goes!

Would you like to discover Bogota as a local? Click here to read our suggestions!

Travel Guide

The Best Way to Get to Páramo de Santurbán

best way to get to páramo de santurbán

The Páramo de Santurbán is a massif. I love that word because it makes me think of massive, and that is exactly what this páramo is. (What is a páramo?) Its rocky formations are astounding. Off the start, I’ll encourage you to visit Páramo de Santurbán without a guide or with a local guide. I think that’s the best way to get to Páramo de Santurbán and truly enjoy your time. More on that below!

Click here to read about a new climbing area close by!

How to Get to Páramo de Santurbán

(See a map to get to Páramo de Santurbán from Bucaramanga at the end of this post!)

In Public Transportation:

  1. Take a Flota Cáchira bus at carrera 16 #24-50 in Bucaramanga. It costs $22,000 pesos and takes you straight to Vetas, a town in the middle of the páramo.
  2. This place is so large that you’ll find entrances to lots of paths to the páramo and its lagoons before and after Vetas.

In a Car:

With a GPS: look for “Vetas, Santander” on Google Maps or Waze and follow the instructions.

Without a GPS:

  1. Beginning at Megamall, exit Bucaramanga headed towards Cúcuta. When you reach the roundabout, take the first exit towards Berlin.
  2. Once you get to Berlin, take a left when you see the Berlin Police Station. This road will take you straight to Vetas, which happens to be right next to California! Go figure… Berlin and California. The road is unpaved.

What to Do at Páramo de Santurbán

Visit its Lagoons

What the Páramo de Santurbán has is lagoons! You can see lagoons everywhere just looking at the area on Google Maps, and a lot of them are quite close to the road. The easiest ones to get to are Laguna Pajarito and Laguna Las Calles, only 3 kilometers from Vetas, and Laguna Negra, which I marked on the map below. No guide is necessary for the hike to Laguna Negra, since there are red rocks marking the path to the lagoon. And that’s just 3 of 57 lagoons you can visit!

¿Access with or without a Guide?

There are some long hikes unknown to tourists, as well as short, easily hikable trails, like the hike to Laguna Negra. For this reason, I would say definitely try to visit without a guide if you’re there for a day trip, or at least hire completely local guides. If you do need a guide or simply need information, you can contact the following agencies from the region:

Some Things to Know

  • There are a lot of access points to different hikes within the Páramo de Santurban. Each one may have different owners, so be aware you may have to pay various entry fees depending on where you go (usually about $3 USD).
  • The road to Vetas may be difficult for low or old cars.
  • Vetas is the highest municipality above sea level in Colombia!
  • Some areas, such as the Laguna Negra, have a limit of people allowed inside in a day.
  • Carry cash, since few places will accept card payments and getting cash is extremely complicated in the area.
  • The cell service that connects best is Claro.

This is the best way to get to Páramo de Santurbán: with local guides or alone, ready to hike a lot and get to know new places! It’s definitely an amazing ecosystem!

If you want to read about what there is to do close to Tona and Vetas, click here!

Travel Guide

What to Do in Tona, Santander

what to do in Tona, Santander

Just 2 hours from Bucaramanga is a tiny town in the middle of the mountains called Tona. “Middle of the mountains” could not be a fairer description. People in the area are mainly farmers, and the town is not that well known, but tourism has recently been on the rise. For example, there are a ton of quaint hostels you can visit, hikes you can go on and, most importantly for us, a climbing area with crazy potential! Learn more and get motivated to visit below… this is what to do in Tona, Santander.

Read about the climbing and adventures close to Tona here!

How to get to Tona, Santander

*Note: the map to get to Tona from Bucaramanga is at the end of this post!

In Public Transportation:

  1. Take a bus straight to Tona from Plaza Guarin in Bucaramanga (I marked it on the map). Buses leave at 6, 7, and 11 a.m. and 1, 3 and 5 p.m.

In a Car:

With a GPS: enter “Tona, Santander” into Google Maps or Waze and follow the directions.

Without a GPS:

  1. In Bucaramanga, start your trip at Megamall taking the road to Cúcuta.
  2. At kilometer 18, you’ll run into a roundabout. Take the second exit towards Tona.
  3. Follow this road, which is pretty beat up, all the way straight to Tona. There are no tolls.
A little video of our time in Tona!

What to do in Tona, Santander:

Rock Climb!

This is why we traveled to Tona in the first place. Our friend, Silvio, found a crag with incredible climbing potential, so he bought some land and moved there to start his project of building a hostel and developing the climbing, all while contributing to the local economy. Why he moved is understandable – he lives in the midst of gorgeous valleys and rivers just below the paramo, and every sunset is spectacular. Clouds are constantly rolling in, giving the landscape and ever-changing personality. There are already a good few routes and probably hundreds waiting to be bolted. Definitely get to know this place! Silvio’s hostel is called La Antigua Floresta and you can read all about it by clicking here!

what to do in Tona, Santander, how to get

Enjoy all the Hostels

Though tourism is still developing in the area, you’d be surprised at the amount of hostels there are around here! They’re perfect for a weekend getaway. I’ll just name them and you can take care of the rest: La Antigua Floresta, Casa Tona, Cabaña de Lobos, Hostal la Montaña, Refugio Piedra Parada and Guatoque, just to name a few!

Páramo de Santurbán

First, what is a páramo? It’s an alpine ecosystem that you can only find on mountains close to the equator. The Páramo de Santurbán is very well known because it has some absolutely gorgeous rocky formations and beautiful lagoons. Plus, it’s quite close to Bucaramanga. If you’re staying close to Tona or even Bucaramanga, the trip to hike here is absolutely worth it.

Valle de Totona

This valley close to La Antigua Floresta and Tona is said to be similar to the famous Cocora Valley, also in Colombia. It has tall palm trees, and, of course, includes the beautiful hike to get there. Definitely do not miss out!

Mountain Biking

Being in the mountains, of course there are going to be a lot of paths for mountain biking. You can even ride along the royal road, which is a very old road that indigenous communities made from sections of an ancient riverbed. The ride from Bucaramanga to the roundabout and then Tona is very popular among cyclists, but it is very hard. The amount of kilometers isn’t anything otherworldly, but almost all of them are an uphill climb.

Some things to know:

  • You can contact Silvio, our friend and local guide, for more information about Tona and his hostel, La Antigua Floresta. Call or WhatsApp him at (321) 389-9107. Or you can message his Instagram pages, which are La Antigua Floresta and Escalada Tona. Might as well drop him a follow while you’re at it!
  • The roads close to Tona, Santander are not all paved, but unless you have an old, low car, you should be fine almost everywhere.
  • There are no tolls between Bucaramanga and Tona.
  • Make sure you take cash, because few places will take credit or debit.

Tona may not be very well known, and that’s exactly why you should visit. Now that you know what to do in Tona, go get to know some very special, personal experiences and contribute to the area’s micro-tourism!

Read about another beauty of the region, La Mojarra, here!

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