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MUST-GO after Hueco – How to get to Last Chance Canyon

Posted on March 25, 2024
How to get to Last Chance Canyon

Where to Sport Climb Close to Hueco Tanks

After 3 weeks bouldering in Hueco Tanks, our bodies were spent. As we planned for the next stages of our trip, people kept telling us about a sport climbing crag called Last Chance Canyon near Carlsbad, New Mexico. Though we wanted to keep driving west, the itch to sport climb got a hold of us and we headed north-east from Hueco. It turned out to be exactly what we needed after so much bouldering, and we were even conditioned for the Solstice Cave, which has super overhung climbs all the way to 14a. This place is a must-go for the next times we visit Hueco now! Here’s how to get to Last Chance Canyon and a little bit of beta for your trip here!

Btw, THIS is my Hueco Tanks gumby guide!

How to get to Last Chance Canyon

Just look for Last Chance Canyon, Carlsbad, New Mexico, and Google Maps will take you straight to where you start hiking.

What to climb?

We got on a 10d at the Solstice Cave to warmup both days we were there. It was a good route to get a feeling for the rock here. Then we got on Eternal Sunshine 12a, which people had recommended us, and it was AMAZING. After that, we tried Solstice 12d, which is kind of a thuggy jug-haul, and it was also an absolute blast. Next time we hope to get on the only 4-star route in the cave, a 13b on the other side.

The hiking!

Right where you park your car there’s a sign requesting climbers to pack their trash out (do it). From there, you can see the Solstice Cave all the way in the valley. Hike the path, keeping to the left of the hill you’re on if you ever stray off-path (you can actually see the path on Google Maps if you want a visual). It’s a hike down all the way, which means its VERY tiring on the way up. The way up takes about 45 minutes, but we didn’t time it.

The sleeping?

Last Chance Canyon is inside of Lincoln National Forest, which means you can camp for free. You’ll see a number of camping spots and fire circles right before you get to the trailhead down to the Solstice Cave, and you can stay for free up to 14 days. You also won’t see a lot of people, with we thought was perfect after Hueco.

The driving!

The last 4 miles of the drive here are a bit rough, with some spots where you’d want a little more clearance. Our Subaru Forester made it without a problem, and our friend’s Crosstrek also made it. A smaller vehicle? Maybe, if you’re a master of unpaved roads, but do it at your own risk. The point is, you don’t need 4-wheel drive, but you do want some good clearance.

Extra little bit of beta?

  • It can get windy AF here, and don’t always trust the weather forecast (it deceived us).
  • Its close to Sitting Bull falls, where there’s also climbing. We didn’t climb here this time around, but you could also come and just enjoy the falls and get in the water.
  • Take lots of water, but there’s drinking water from a faucet right before the dirt road at the Guadalupe Rangers District.
  • You can find all the beta for this climbing crag online, but we mostly used Mountain Project.
  • We only visited the Solstice Cave, but there’s one area called the Mad Cow Cave, and that’s  a spot we’ll be visiting next time because it sounds awesome.
Travel Guide

Gumby to Dirtbag – Ultimate Guide to Climbing in Hueco Tanks

Posted on March 18, 2024
Climbing in Hueco Tanks

Climbing in Hueco Tanks State Park

We just spent three weeks at Hueco Tanks, our first time ever. And this guide is everything you need to know for your first time there – or what we learned. You could call this a FAQ, because it answers a lot of questions WE have asked, had answered, and now are giving to you. Without further ado… this is a beginner’s guide to climbing in Hueco Tanks.

The Season:

Pretty much when everywhere else is too cold to climb. The bouldering season goes from beginning of November to end of March; pretty much the whole time the Hueco Rock Ranch is open – although I wish they’d stay open a little longer.

By early March, everyone’s saying its too hot, the Rock Ranch closes, and hot blooded Colombians are just now thawing from winter, ready to boulder in the life-giving sun. It does get WAY too windy in late March, though.

I’m writing this from a library in El Paso, hiding from 40 mph winds in the desert as I write, actually.

The rock:

Is this boring stuff? But this is why Hueco Tanks is said to be the best bouldering in the world.

The rock is a weak granite that feels to me like sandstone… but the way its been shaped by erosion across eons? Oh mama! This rock makes climbing feel like it makes sense!

Where to Stay to Climb in Hueco Tanks:

  • Rock Ranch: We car camped for $10 per person, and it was super worth it. You can a communal area with furniture, a cooking area, a ping pong table and lots of cool people to meet. If you choose the rooms, they cost $25 for the bunks and $45 for a private room, per person per night. They have their own cool, nicer, communal area. The Ranch is open from mid-November to mid-March.
  • Gleatherland: This camping location is known for being quiet and peaceful, and it’s first-come first-serve for camping, at $5 per person per night. If you’re in an RV, it costs $25 per night and you need a reservation. It gets cheaper the longer you stay, and Gleatherland is open from November to April.
  • The Mud Hut: This location is where the party’s at. You’ll be able to meet a lot of climbers, and it’s the closest to the entrance to Hueco Tanks. It costs $5 per night per person.
  • El Paso: This puts you about 20-30 minutes away from Hueco Tanks, but getting an AirBnB or hotel is always an option and may give you the comfort you need for a substantial price increase.
  • In the State Park: They have some campsites with water and others with electricity. Staying here puts you a bit far away from civilization, and you’re trapped in the park from 6pm to 8am every day. If you have the Texas State Park Pass, it can be a good option in terms of price, but it’s a bit limiting.

Should you make reservations?

The short answer is yes.

Only 70 people can visit the park self-guided every day. That’s why there’s are two types of people entering Hueco Tanks each day. The people with reservations, who can enter the park between 8 and 10 am (or call 915-857-1135) to hold their reservation), and those who are waiting in a line of cars on the right side of the road at the Hueco Tanks entrance, if the park’s full.

Right at 8 am every day, the first 10 people waiting in line get to enter the park immediately. From 8-10 am, those in line can get in as and if people call to cancel their reservations. At 10, all unfulfilled reservations are automatically cancelled and that number of people waiting in line get to go in. After that, if you’re in line, you have to wait for people to start exiting the park.

So…

It helps having reservations, and you can make them starting 3 months before your visit by calling (512) 389-8911. Before calling, make sure you’ve made an account for yourself on Reserve America. You can call and make a reservation for multiple people, and they all have to have accounts on Reserve America.

This is especially nice if you’re going to be climbing in Hueco Tanks for a mere week and need to be in the park by 8 am every day you have planned.

We were climbing for 3 weeks, and our plans changed based on how WRECKED our bodies were and due to the weather.

We were able to climb on days we didn’t have reservations, and it was no problem at all, especially during the week. Some days, we were able to arrive at noon and get right in; other days, we waited in line for 2 hours. One day we did NOT get in (it was a Saturday).

It’ll definitely be harder to get in without a reservation during high season and the weekends, but if you get in line SUPER early, you’ll most likely make it in.

That being said, if you have a reservation and choose to forego it, CANCEL IT so that someone in line can get in quick!

Best boulders in Hueco Tanks:

This is very subjective, obviously, but my favorite climbs were: Girls of Juarez, Stegosaur, Denizen, Free Willy, and King Cobra.

Lala’s favorite boulders were: Baby Martini, Lobster Claw, Denizen, and Girls of Juarez.

Should you get the Texas State Park Pass?

Most likely, yes. It costs $70 and whoever is in the car with you will pay $0 to get into the park. All it takes is 10 days of climbing for it to be worth it for one person. With 4 people in a car? 3 days. And it lasts a full year, so you can use it next season too if you time it right!

Tour or self-guided?

Self guided means you’ll be rock climbing on North Mountain, since all others require a guide. There is more than enough climbing on North Mountain for a lifetime, and it has the best boulders. Going on tours every day could get very pricey, but it’s worth getting to know other areas. So go on some tours, but mostly self guided!

Do you need a guidebook?

Yea, it makes it so much easier to find boulders. However, if it’s too pricey, you do get signal pretty much around the entire park or at least a stone’s throw away, so you could rely on Mountain Project or a similar app.

Fun Climbing Challenges

We met some folks at the Hueco Rock Ranch who had been climbing at Hueco Tanks State Park so long, they were making up games… and man, they had the right idea. Here’s two super fun challenges!

  • The Tour d’ Fours: Climb these ten V4’s in a day at Hueco Tanks, in this order (this day was spectacular) – Dab, T-bone Shuffle, Lithologic, Squirm, B-Flat, Denizen, Pudgy Pussack, Double Vision, Girls of Juarez, and Bloody Flapper. The end will haunt you. A classically sand-bagged Hueco Tanks V4. Enjoy!
  • Nobody Runs Out of Here Alive: Start at the pond parking and run up to Nobody Here Gets Out Alive (V2). Climb it and run all the way back down to where you started. Current record (about 6:30) and rules are in a binder in the barn at Hueco Rock Ranch.

Check out our favorite crags close to Nashville!

Travel Guide

How to Get to Florian

Posted on June 7, 2019
how to get to florian, ventanas de tisquizoque, what to do, climbing in colombia, jungle

Kalymnos in Colombia. It has a nice ring to it. Florian is a small town in Santander, Colombia. 3 kilometers into the jungle is an enormous cave with a river flowing through it (it really rushes during the rainy season) and some stellar climbing inside of it. Though there’s only 1 cave with rock climbing, this place is known for its many caves carved into the side of the mountain. That’s why it’s called the Ventanas de Tisquizoque (Tisquizoque Windows). People come here just to camp, hike and climb. There’s also a number of other climbing areas further down the mountain, but of course the cave is the main attraction. You climb on some great limestone, stalactites and the weirdest-shaped holds. The place is worth a visit, it’s kind of mind blowing! This is how to get to Florian and the Tisquizoque Windows.

If you’re researching climbing areas in Colombia, we have the perfect list for you here!

How to get to Florian

*Note: the map to get to Florian from Bogotá is at the end of this post!

In Public Transportation:

  1. Go to Bogota’s main Bus Terminal or Northern Terminal and take a bus to Puente Nacional. One of the companies that offers the trip is “Reina.” If you’re not in Bogota, any main city will offer bus rides here or close to it.
  2. Once you’re in Puente Nacional, you’ll take a bus or car that will drop you off in Florian. They leave Puente Nacional from 4 a.m. to 4 p.m. every 2 hours (but don’t count on them being punctual). They can drop you off at Florian or at the hostel on the way, which I’ll talk more about later.

In a Car:

With a GPS: enter “Florian, Santander” into Google Maps or Waze and follow the directions. Make sure your map sends you through Puente Nacional (as in the map below). There’s a shorter way, but it’s a terrible road.

Without a GPS (I really recommend having a GPS or a map to look at):

  1. In Bogota, drive north out of the city. Follow directions to Chia.
  2. After passing a big university on your left, stay right on the bridge right before entering Chia. After to see a Homecenter on your right, go right where there’s a sign towards Zipaquira and Ubate.
  3. Keep driving until you get to yet another bridge. Stay left and get on the bridge, which will take you to the right, following the sign to Ubate.
  4. Soon, you’ll get to a round-about. Take the second exit. It will end eventually, connecting to another road. Stay on this road, following signs towards Chiquinquira and Puente Nacional.
  5. Next, you have to go through Puente Nacional’s main plaza and head to the tiny town of Jesus Maria. From there, you turn at a really random left turn (marked on the map below) and it’s a straight shot to Florian on a mostly unpaved road.
  6. Again, I really recommend having a GPS because after Puente Nacional because there are barely any signs to help you get to your destination. What’s amazing is that Google has street view all the way to Florian!
  7. If you’re headed to the climber hostel, its 4 km before Florian when you see a red house on your right and a white one on your left.

If you’re looking places to hike, camp and enjoy the outdoors close to Bogota, read this blog post here!

Where to Stay

The best place to stay while you’re here is Refugio Munay, although there are some hostels in Florian. Refugio Munay was built very recently by climbers we know, for all kinds of travelers. There are some rooms with beds, but most people will be camping. The camping facilities have community bathrooms and a kitchen. Most importantly, the place is gorgeous. You camp in the middle of the mountains. This place is only 4 kilometers from Florian as you follow the instructions above!

What to do at Florian:

Climb

Obviously! The only reason you’re reading this is probably because you’re a climber! Anyway, the climbing here is all limestone, and everything used to be quite hard. Now that there’s been more development, there are more easy climbs, ranging from 5.9 to 5.14a. The climbing style here tends to be very overhung, pumpy and physical, especially in the cave. The newer zones are outside, on the side of the mountain, and are more vertical. There are a number of different areas, but the most popular is the large cave. Here’s a list of the zones:

  • El portón : 14 climbs from 5.10a – 5.13a
  • La guaca: 13 climbs from 5.11c -5.13b
  • La cueva del indio: 7 climbs from 5.11b – to projects.

Bike

Mountain biking around here, whether on the unpaved roads between tiny towns or on mountain trails, is spectacular. The views are gorgeous and the air is fresh and alpine-ish (Florian is 1800 meters, or 5,900 feet above sea level).

Waterfall Hopping

If you’re only here for the climbing, you’ll still get to see enough waterfalls. But if you’re into hiking and visiting beautiful spots, there are definitely enough waterfalls to visit. Get some exercise, have a picnic, and enjoy. Ask around at your hostels or around town for trails and waterfalls worth visiting!

Take Photos

Florian and its surroundings are extremely photogenic. It doesn’t take much to get some great shots!

Go Pond Hopping

Where there are waterfalls, there are ponds. Two great ponds for a nice swim are Charco Paila and Charco Azul. Even better, getting to them involves some pretty nice hikes. Ask around at the links I included right below to find out how to get there! Or you can just get the info or a guide while you’re there.

Some things to know:

  • One of Florian’s main men is named Miguel Angel Garcia, and this place is his baby. You can contact him if you’re thinking of heading to climb or do some tourism. His phone number is 3118709992.
  • You can also get more information about Florian and the climbing, by messaging this Facebook page or contact Refugio Munay here!
  • There are various climbing areas in Florian that are owned by individuals. Because of that, there are rules in some places, such as leaving before 6 pm, etc. Before you head over, talk to someone who knows the place to get your do’s and don’ts.
  • The road to Florian is mostly unpaved, but pretty much any car can make it when it’s dry. It’ll just be very bumpy. You can call Miguel Angel or Refugio Munay to ask about the road conditions.

So why go to Kalymnos now that you know how to get to Florian?! Ok, don’t answer that.

BUT, if you liked reading about this place, or went and loved it, you might like to know about our favorite climbing area in Colombia: La Mojarra!

Travel Guide

Where to Climb in Colombia

Posted on January 25, 2019
where to climb in Colombia, la mojarra, rock climbing

For us, one of the best reasons to travel is to go climb. Getting to know a new place with friends and climbing on new rock is wonderful. Now, if you’re wondering if there’s climbing in Colombia because you’re coming or might come, let me tell you: there sure is! Colombia has some ridiculously amazing climbing, from an enormous cave in the middle of nowhere with a waterfall spraying from its mouth to small and famous crags an hour from the city. This is where to climb in Colombia.

Since I talked about the cave, I guess we’ll start there!

Where to Climb in Colombia

Florian

There are 4 climbing areas at Florian, one of which is this cave. Obviously, it’s the main attraction. As you gain height on the limestone tufas, all you can hear is the raging waterfall below you and your own yells as you crush your project (the waterfall only rushes during the rainy season). The other areas are cool too, though! This climbing area has everything from 5.10 to 5.14. Getting here is quite the journey because, like I said, Florian is in the middle of nowhere. Part of the drive is 48 km (30 miles) of unpaved roads, putting Florian at about 5 hours from Bogota! There is a new guide for Florian. For info on the guide, how to get there and more, read this blog post!

Suesca

If you’ve been researching where to climb in Colombia, I’m sure this place has come up. Suesca is Colombia’s oldest and most well-known climbing area. The rock is sandstonemnand you can find everything from 5.6 to 5.14 sport climbing and trad. Since this place is so popular, the rock is really slick, and almost everything is vertical. You’ll have a hard time finding something really overhung. Guidebooks are available at any Monodedo store in Bogota or in Suesca. This place is also just 1 hour from Bogota, Colombia’s capital city. Click here to read a full guide on Suesca!

Sutatausa

Sutatausa is also known as Sutanblue because of its similarities to the climbing in Fontainebleau, in France (so, sandstone). I’m not so sure about that, but it is Colombia’s best bouldering area. And though it’s known for its boulders, it also has sport climbing on the imposing cliff-line above. I love this place because it’s extremely beautiful… and it’s only about 2 hours north of Bogota! There is no official guidebook, but you can get a “guide drawing” at the nearby hostel. To read about that and other details regarding Sutatausa, click here!

Macheta

Now, if you read “vertical” for Suesca and didn’t like the sound of it, Macheta is the place for you. Everything is overhung and almost everything is above 5.12. But that’s old Macheta. New Macheta is VERY vertical, and has some gorgeous, extremely long routes that follow splitter cracks in the rock. The place is called the Hall of Justice. A 5-star name for a 5-star climbing area. About 2.5 hours north of Bogota, this spot is a must-visit! You can get a guidebook to Old Macheta at any Monodedo store in Bogota or in Suesca, but there is no guide for New Macheta. To read more about both areas of Macheta, click here!

La Mojarra

The Mecca of Colombian sport climbing. Orange, South American sandstone, amazing routes and a mountainous landscape make La Mojarra something out of a dream. When people ask me where to climb in Colombia, I always recommend this place. It has easy climbs and hard climbs, and they’re all beautiful. It’s 8 hours from Bogota and about 2 from the city of Bucaramanga. The weather is warm and the sun hits the cliff-line in the morning, giving climbers the excuse to sleep in to climb in the afternoon’s sweet temps. You can get a guidebook at Refugio la Roca, a hostel right above the cliff, or on their website. Read more about this climbing area in La Mesa de los Santos here!

Puente Reyes

This place, also known as La Peña de las Aguilas (The Eagles’ Crag, with no eagles though) is a beautiful climbing area in Boyacá. It’s right next to a river in an area of the country where the weather is constantly changing. It has over 40 routes, all on sandstone, with way more to be developed. It’s an almost perfect place for some sport climbing. There’s also a lot to do nearby! There’s quaint towns, like Mongui, hikes, and paradisical natural scenes, like the Laguna Negra. Puente Reyes has a guidebook (more like guide-PDF) which you can access here!

El Peñol

If you’re visiting Medellin, Colombia’s 2nd-largest and best city, you’re probably going to want to visit El Peñol. El Peñol is a gigantic granite monolith that rises from the ground beside a beautiful dam. As touristy as this place is, something VERY few people do is rock climb to the top. Just imagine people’s faces (because normal people can climb up an infinite staircase to the top) as you mantle onto the lookout and belay your partner up. El Peñol has sport climbing and trad from 5.8 to 5.12 and is one enourmous slabby slab.

La Peña

This place, close to Medellin, is said to be the climbing area with the most potential in Antioquia. It’s a young area, less developed than others, but already has over 40 routes from 5.8 to 5.13c and a hostal that’s also in its beginning stages, but is beautiful (another lodging option is the crazy “Aero Hostal”). From what I’ve seen in pictures and photos, the place is gorgeous and in the middle of nowhere. The development it has had is high-quality – they even have a guide already! La Peña is about 3 hours from Medellin. Click here for how to get there.

Choachí – Valle Escondido

This cloudy place right behind the mountains of Bogota houses some great climbing and the 6th tallest waterfall in South America. It’s called Valle Escondido, or Hidden Valley. Also, some (I) would say it’s magical. The climbing area is pretty undeveloped, but has the potential to be as amazing as La Mojarra. The rock, (surprise!) is sandstone. This climbing area is only an hour and a half from Bogota going east and definitely worth a visit! Another cool thing about this place is that its 3,100 meters (10,170 feet) above sea level. So you’ll get some high-altitude climbing! There’s a guide for this place, and you can get it there or at Zona de Bloque. Read a full guide on how to get there here!

Tona

Imagine a cliff-side with two levels. Each level has tons of different climbing – from vertical climbing much like La Mojarra’s to overhangs like Macheta’s. The potential is crazy! And I say potential because this place is just now being developed, and getting here is quite a journey. That’s what makes it so worth it. A friend of our bought some land to start a hostel and develop the climbing, and it feels in the middle of nowhere, although it’s 3 hours from Bucaramanga. Click here to read all about this place’s awesome story!

Well, I hope knowing where to climb in Colombia has motivated you to come visit this country, meet new people, and climb on new rock. If you are, maybe send us a message and we’ll see if we can go climb with you!

Finally, if you like hiking at high altitudes, you might also enjoy reading about Colombia’s paramos!

Travel Guide

Indoor Climbing Gyms in Bogota

Posted on January 17, 2018
indoor climbing gyms in bogota, laladventures

Colombia has a ton to offer when it comes to climbing, indoors and outdoors. You could consider Lala and I weekend warriors, climbing indoors during the week, and making it outdoors on the weekends. This is a list of indoor climbing gyms in Bogota.

If you’d like to read our local tips for touring Bogota, click on the link!

Where to Climb Indoors in Bogota

Before we start, for non-climbers, I’d like to point out that there are two kinds of climbing you can practice at climbing gyms in Bogota. First is bouldering, which is without a rope because it’s not very high (you do have pads beneath you, though). Second is sport climbing, which is with a rope and harness because you climb high.

Roca Solida

Roca Solida is our home gym. Lala and I have come to this gym for the most part of our climbing lives, which makes it about 10 years. I’ve worked here as a coach and also set for them (if you go, look for routes with the name “Eric” on them and let me know how you liked them!). This indoor climbing gym, like most in Bogota, only has bouldering. Its walls are filled with holds and are very featured: slabs, overhangs, crazy overhangs, and roofs.

Address: Av 19 #125 – 26

Phone Number: (57-1) 812-1208

Hours: 10am-10pm Monday to Friday, 10am-8pm Saturday, 9am-3pm Sundays and holidays.

WEYA

WEYA is through and through a bouldering gym for boulderers. Come here to boulder your socks off, because everything here is overhung except for maybe a 1 meter by 50 cm section at the end of the wall. Really nice people work and climb here, I must say, and the sports therapist who works on the second floor of the gym, Liliana Roa, is a magician (she’s healed me twice).

Address: Carrera 20b No. 73-17

Phone Number: (57-1) 732-2314

Hours: 1pm-9:45pm Monday to Friday, 9am-6:45pm Saturday, not open Sunday and holidays.

Zona de Bloque

Zona de Bloque is probably Bogota’s most complete bouldering gym. But, again, you can only boulder here. It is a big gym, with a lot of holds and a lot of features. I’d say Zona has the best setting too, so expect to do some fun climbing.

Address: Carrera 21 No. 50-34

Phone Number: (57-1) 255-4305

Hours: 10am-9:45pm Monday to Friday, 9am-9pm Saturday, 11am-5pm Sunday and holidays.

Gran Pared

Gran Pared used to be undoubtedly Colombia’s best climbing gym. It was huge and the sport climbing amazing – world class, even. They closed down for years, but are now up and running again. The gym is smaller now, but still has amazing sport climbing. So if you’ve gotten tired of all those bouldering gyms in Bogota, this place will be a good rest.

Address: Calle 52 # 15 – 27

Phone Number: (57-1) 288-4061

Hours: 2pm-9:45pm Monday to Friday, 10am-6:45pm Saturday, 10am-5:45pm Sunday and holidays.

Cumbre Andina

I honestly don’t know much about Cumbre Andina, except that it is another only-bouldering gym and looks really cool in pictures! It has lot of cool features and holds. So go get to known this gem of a gym.

Address: Calle 78 # 24 – 45

Phone Number: (57-1)  388 27 84

Hours: 8am-10pm Monday to Friday, 8am-7pm Saturday, 9am-5pm Sunday and holidays.

Rocópolis

Rocópolis, for a long time while Gran Pared was closed, was Bogota’s only gym where you could sport climb, so a lot of people came to love it. It’s also really close to my house, so I was able to enjoy it a good bit. This gym is smaller, but it has fun routes and great people work and climb there.

Address: Carrera 49 #128c-17

Phone Number: (57-1) 322 306-1737

Hours: 2pm-10pm Monday to Friday, 9am-6pm Saturday, 12pm-6pm Sunday and holidays.

 

Interested in getting outdoors close to Bogota? Check out this link with our recommendations!

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