If you’ve traveled to Villavicencio, you’ve passed through Cáqueza. It’s well-known on the Bogotá-Villavicencio highway as one of the best places in the country to stop to eat “piquete” (fritanga – more on that later). What not everyone knows is that Cáqueza is a 5-star destination for nature lovers, which makes sense because of its mountains, rivers and warm weather. Here’s how to get to and what to do in Cáqueza!
Everything I mention here is marked on the map below!
Take a Cootranscáqueza bus from Terminal de Transporte Salitre in Bogotá. The price is below – read on for more!
In a car:
Enter “Cáqueza” in Google Maps or Waze and follow the directions.
From Bogotá, take Avenida Boyacá south, practically all the way to Cáqueza. Just stay on the main road, following the signs to Chipaque, Cáqueza and Villavicencio.
When you get to the intersection to enter Cáqueza, it’s very well signposted, and will be to the right.
What to do in Cáqueza:
Glamping
Cáqueza has a lot of glamping sites surrounded by nature. Glamping is usually best in colder climates, but the mountains and scenery around here make it an ideal place for glamorous camping.
This part of Colombia, along with Choachi and Fómeque, which are very closeby, has some of the BEST glamping we’ve seen. Click here to see them!
Hike to Cerro de Monruta and the Hanging Rock
Walking to Cerro de Monruta is like walking to Monserrate in Bogotá or the statue of the virgin in Villa de Leyva, but much easier. You reach an outlook with a gorgeous panoramic view of the town.
Right next to it is the Hanging Rock (not to be confused with the one in Ubaté), where you can take some great pictures.
Extreme Mountain Biking on the Cuchilla de Cáqueza
This place, which could translate to Razorback Ridge of Cáqueza has one of the most beautiful mountain biking trails I have ever seen. You have to ride up an unpaved road and then ride all the way down the ridge to the river.
It’s a technical descent that many cyclists come to because it is so incredible, always with the river below you… WAY below. It’s even worth coming if you’re not a cyclist.
The piqueteaderos of Cáqueza are famous. Piqueteaderos are restaurants for eating fritanga, which can have any combination of beef, pork and chicken, criole potato, chorizo, blood sausage, pork rind, fried green plantains (patacones), ripe plantains, fried yucca… and more!
Eat until you’re bursting at the seams and then explore the town a bit to digest. The cathedral in this town is gigantic and beautiful, and the town is full of streets and viewpoints for walking.
Jump into the Cáqueza River
If you’re wanting to cool off, a great plan is to stop at the Waterfront of the Cáqueza River. There, you can leave your car next to the road and walk a few meters to the river for a dip. It’s a perfect plan in a very beautiful and natural environment, and I marked the place on the map below!
Other things to know:
There are a total of 2 tolls between Bogotá and Cáqueza.
The bus ticket to get here costs $9,000 Colombian pesos (less than 2 dollars).
The road to Cáqueza is in good conditions, but it can have a lot of traffic.
Make sure you take cash because a lot of stores and restaurants don’t take cards.
Without a doubt, the most beautiful destination near Bogotá is the entire area behind its Eastern Mountain Range. The whole area that is Choachi, Fómeque and Ubaqué is in the middle of some of the most beautiful mountains we have ever seen. Plus, most of Fómeque is inside Chingaza National Natural Park! It’s a place you need to get to know because of the nature around it, and it gets bonus points because the town itself is beautiful (especially the main square – more about that below). Here’s how to get to Fómeque!
All points and routes are marked on the map below!
How to get to Fómeque
In public transportation:
It’s REALLY simple. Take a bus from the Cootransfomeque terminal in Bogotá. The address is weird: Ac. 6 #1528, but it’s on Calle 6, one block from Avenida Caracas (walking away from the mountains). I left the price below… read on!
In a car:
Write “Fómeque” in Google Maps or Waze and follow the instructions for how to get to Fómeque. In Bogota, take the Circunvalar south-bound to the Universidad Distrital, where you turn left to exit towards Choachi.
Enter Choachi and follow the map to start heading to Fómeque.
Chingaza National Natural Park holds a special place in our hearts. It’s gorgeous, and too few people have been there.
It is one of Colombia’s largest National Parks. The park has entraces from the north through La Calera or from the south, through Fómeque. You’ll see a plethora of lagoons, and its mountains are awe-inspiring.
The only frustrating thing is that it can be difficult to get to some trails because of the TERRIBLE road conditions and the requirements to enter. To read more about how to get to Chingaza National Natural Park, click here!
Go Glamping
If you haven’t experienced glamping, you have to. It’s a combination of camping and glamour. It’s glamorous camping.
You usually sleep deep in the wilderness in domes or cabins made specifically for enjoying nature. The structures are almost always rustic but elegant, offer good food and often have a jacuzzi right next to them.
Walk around the beautiful town and get to know it, but especially Jesús Maestro Park. This is the main square, and you can tell they have put some love into it because it’s a beauty. Green is how I would describe it, and the town’s cathedral is imposing and attractive.
The square and its surroundings are the perfect place to have a small town lunch, whether you’re passing through Fómeque or it’s your destination.
Try Artisan Beer
Fómeque has a craft brewery known for its beautiful bottles with Colombian animals, such as the jaguar and the spectacled bear.
Stop by for a refreshing drink and support a cool local business!
Is it worth your while to drive to the middle of nowhere to see an imposing architectural and historic wonder towering over a gorgeous river? The answer is absolutely yes, although I also have to say the experience isn’t quite as magical as other travel bloggers make it seem. Though Las Lajas Sanctuary is everything they say it is, you’d definitely have to squint a little to ignore some of the negative sides of it, which is relentless crowds (we went on an average Thursday morning) and the gray, disorganized mass tourism infrastructure around the cathedral. That being said, the trip is still worth your while for a foray into culture, history and nature, all at the same time! This is how to get to Las Lajas Sanctuary in Nariño, Colombia.
I’ve marked all the places and some directions in this travel guide in the map at the end of this post!
If you’re driving, look up “Las Lajas Sanctuary” Google Maps or Waze and follow the directions (there’s 1 toll between Pasto and Ipiales).
If you’ve decided to take a taxi, at what I’d consider an unnecessarily steep price, they’ll take you and some will even work as your guides for a day trip. Finding someone who will do this isn’t exactly straightforward, but if you ask around at your hotel, friends or someone trustworthy, pretty much everyone will know someone who offers this service.
If public transportation is your method of choice (probably a good idea because its inexpensive and easy), here’s what you need to know.
From Pasto:
Take a bus from the bus terminal in Pasto to Ipiales (costs $15,000 pesos, or 3.3 dollars).
Take a bus from the bus terminal in Ipiales straight to the parking lot of Las Lajas (costs $2,500 pesos, or half a dollar).
From Ecuador:
Take a bus from the Quito bus terminal (or any other) towards Tulcán, which is on the border with Colombia.
If the bus doesn’t take you straight to the border (a location called Puente Internacional de Rumichaca), take a quick taxi ride from Tulcán to the border.
Once you’ve made it into Colombia, you can either take another quick taxi ride straight to the Las Lajas Sanctuary or grab a bus to Ipiales and then grab another bus to Las Lajas Sanctuary.
Buses will take you back to Ipiales from Las Lajas Sanctuary until 9 p.m.
Watch this video!
What to do at Las Lajas Sanctuary:
Now that you know how to get to Las Lajas Sanctuary, here’s what we think is worth your while to do!
Take advantage and walk!
Since you made it all the way out here, you might as well view the cathedral from every possible vantage point! From my memory, I believe there are 5 or 6 different lookouts with amazing views of the cathedral, the waterfall (yep, there’s a waterfall) and the river below. It ends up being a lot of uphill walking, and being 2,900 meters (almost 10,000 feet) above sea level doesn’t help.
Paseo de olla.
This is an EXTREMELY Colombian tradition, where families will travel out of the city, usually on Sunday, taking a pot (olla in Spanish) full of potatoes, onion, spices, hen, plantain and other delicacies with them. Paseo de olla translates to pot trip. Families will usually cook everything at their destination. At Las Lajas Sanctuary, you can buy one of these pots full of traditional Colombian food and eat on some stumps while you look up at the giant cathedral.
Visit the inexpensive museum and the inside of the cathedral.
I’m not usually a museum guy, but since it cost $3,000 pesos (66 cents), we gave it a try and it was worth it. The inside of the cathedral is also amazing.
Ride the Cable Car.
On your way to Las Lajas Sanctuary, I recommend you tell the bus driver you’ll be getting off at the cable cars. That way, you can arrive at the Sanctuary with style, enjoying the view of the entire canyon and cathedral from WAY above. It’s also a good idea because then, when you’re ready to leave, you can walk up to the buses and taxis through a gorgeous walkway with traditional foods and souvenirs jam-packed on either side of you all the way there.
The cable car ride costs $10,000 pesos (2.2 dollars) one way and $16,000 pesos (3.5 dollars) there and back. The price goes up on weekends and holidays, to $12,000 pesos one way and $20,000 roundtrip.
Crossing the Border
Whether you’re entering or exiting Colombia, the key word is patience. You never know what you’re going to find at the border. It could be a pristine day and a quick process, or it may take you hours to get a stamp on your passport. This could be due to protests going on in Colombia or Ecuador, or because of Venezuelans migrating to-and-fro. Just wait it out and you’ll be on your way!
If you’re looking for a hike that’s a lot like Monserrate, but not as crowded, the hike to La Valvanera Chapel is the one for you. It’s not in Bogota, but in a town right outside the city called Chía. The hike is easy, but nice and steep at some points. There are also two bike trails, one on a road up to the chapel and a mountain biking trail to get down the mountain. This is how to get to La Valvanera.
Check out the map at the bottom of the post for a visual guide!
How to get to La Valvanera in Chía
In Public Transportation (check out the map because getting around Chia can be a little confusing):
If you’re in Bogota, head to Portal Norte (marked on the map below) and take a Flota Chia almost all the way to the Chia Transportation Terminal. This costs $3,500 Colombian pesos.
Get off right before the terminal at Calle 11 – you can tell the driver and they’ll drop you off there.
Walk on Calle 11 all the way until it ends, staying on its weird turns, and passing a bridge that goes over a small but beautiful creek.
If you’re hiking, go left where Calle 11 ends and take the first road to the right. A little to the right of where this new road ends, after some shops where you can buy some treats, you’ll see a big sign, which is the trailhead for the hike up to La Valvanera Chapel.
If you’re biking, go right where Calle 11 ends and take the first road to the left. If you stay on this road, you’re pretty much on the bike route. So keep going straight when you get to an intersection and you’ll start the climb up. At the first definite Y in the road, take a left, and then take the middle road at the middle intersection, where there’s a sign towards the La Valvanera Chapel. This is the longest and least steep bike route.
There are two steeper bike rides coming from the other side of the Chapel, and doing all of them on the same trip is a great idea! I’ve marked all of them on the map below.
In a car: Enter “Parqueadero MTB Chia Valvanera” into Google Maps or Waze and follow the directions. This is where you can park, and the hike starts by the mountainside where you see a big sign.
Like I said before, you can either bike or hike up to the Chapel. Enjoy some wonderful nature while you work those lungs. The hike is half a kilometer long, or about 0.34 miles. There are actually 3 bike routes, from 1 to 2.7 kilometers long, and the shortest one is STEEP. There’s also a gnarly mountain biking descent route.
Have a picnic at the top. You can either take some food and eat on the grass by the Chapel or buy some delicious traditional Colombian food at the restaurant at the top.
As long as you’re in Chia, I’d like to recommend two of my favorite restaurants: El Galápago Campestre, for some huge burgers or amazing steaks, and La Magola, for some of the best Colombian bread (pandeyuca and almojabana) and a fermented rice drink called masato.
Some things to know:
Is it safe? Definitely, if you go in the morning, and even more so on the weekends, because you’ll be surrounded by other like-minded hikers and bikers. It can be a little more lonesome in the afternoon, but still safe. At night, it may or not be unsafe, like any place in Colombia, so just go in the morning!
Going up to La Valvanera Chapel is free.
This hike is pet-friendly.
Take really good care of this area. Not that this doesn’t apply to everywhere you go, but the area is actually an indigenous reserve. Don’t risk everyone’s access to this gorgeous spot by littering or being disrespectful.
To see the biking and hiking routes beforehand, I suggest you search for them on Strava. I’ll link you to the most popular bike route, which is the 2 km one, to see distance, altitude, height gained, etc.
Thanks for making it this far! I’d really appreciate it if you watched the YouTube video above to get a feel for the hike. Happy exploring!
The mountains to the east of Bogota are a unique place right outside the big city. You’re close to the city, but the cool air enters your nose like you’re in the backwoods of who-know-where. All the hikes on Bogota’s mountain range were closed for a few years because they were over-used. Thankfully, they reopened in 2022, although with more restrictions. You have to reserve a spot online and have until about 9:30 am to reach the top of the hike. This all makes for a nicer hike with less crowds. And let me tell you – the amount of people you could find here on a Sunday before the restrictions was CRAZY! Find out how to get to Quebrada la Vieja, make your reservation and more by reading on!
How to get to Quebrada la Vieja:
You can find the map to get to Quebrada la Vieja at the bottom of this post!
Walking:
Get on a Transmilenio to get to the Calle 72 station and walk straight towards the mountains.
On Calle 72, you’ll find the trailhead with a big sign. You’ll still be among the buildings, but on top of a little creek. Follow the trail.
When the trail puts you back on the pavement, keep walking towards the mountain. When you get to the Circunvalar road, or Carrera 2 Este, you have to cross it underneath through a sketchy-looking tunnel. Exit the tunnel and the real trailhead will be right above.
Start hiking and a few minutes in they’ll ask you for your reservation and point you in the right direction. Eventually, tou’ll get to a large clearing. If you continue on the trail towards the left, you can get to a lookout with a statue of a Virgin. If you continue on the trail towards the right and keep going, you can get to a lookout with a cross.
In a car:
To be honest, it’s best to get to Quebrada la Vieja from the Transmilenio or in an Uber.
If Ubering, type in this address and you’re good: Quebrada La Vieja, Cl. 71, Bogotá.
If you do head over in a car:
The closest parking garage is called Park Elite on Calle 72 close to Carrera 7 (I know, that probably means nothing to you, so it’s marked on the map below).
Walk up Calle 72 towards the mountains, eventually walking along a little creek and through a sketchy tunnel. The trailhead will be there right after the tunnel.
Start hiking and a few minutes in they’ll ask you for your reservation and point you in the right direction. Eventually, you’ll get to a large clearing. If you continue on the trail towards the left, you can get to a lookout with a statue of a Virgin. If you continue on the trail towards the right and keep going, you can get to a lookout with a cross.
Is it safe?
During the hours Quebrada la Vieja is open to the public, there are officials spread out across the hike to help make it safe and a police officer at Claro de la Luna. So yes, it is safe!
Watch this video to see Quebrada la Vieja for yourself! It’s hard to believe this is INSIDE Bogotá..
Click on any of the Quebrada la Vieja options. I recommend La Virgen or Alto de la Cruz because Claro de la Luna is an intermediate option from where you can go left to La Virgen or right towards Alto de la Cruz. The “Paramo” option is a longer hike but is usually not available.
Fill out the information and you’re good to go! You have to show your reservation when you get there.
Some things to know:
There is no entrance fee for the Quebrada la Vieja trail.
Pets are not allowed on the trail.
The trail is open Tuesday to Friday from 5:00 to 9:00 am and Weekends from 6:00 to 11:00 am. It’s not open on Mondays and, if the Monday is a holiday, it won’t be open on Tuesday.
The hike to the Virgin is 1.3 km and 1.7 km to the Cross.
You’re only allowed to go to one lookout per visit, so if you want to get to know the Virgin and the Cross, you’ll have to go two separate days.
If you have any questions, write to me on Instagram!
What to do at Quebrada la Vieja:
Have a breakfast picnic while you gaze at Bogota from above.
Take care of your surroundings: people sometimes damage beauty while they try to enjoy it; please try not to! One of the amazing things about Quebrada la Vieja is how wild it feels even though you’re literally minutes from one of the world’s most populated cities. Let’s keep it that way.
Take pictures of towering eucalyptus and pine trees, the morning sun rays splitting the air, the cold morning air visibly entering and exiting your lungs, and Bogota, much smaller from above.
If I had to describe our trip to Playa del Carmen in one word it would be ‘water,’ but then I’d have to break the rule and to say ‘food’ too. Playa del Carmen was our first trip together outside of Colombia. As you’ll know by now from reading us, we aren’t into the party scene. We travel to enjoy active, different experiences. In Playa del Carmen, we went scuba diving, climbing and more (much more!), so read on for some ideas on what to do in Playa del Carmen, as well as some extremely useful tips! This is THE BEST no-nonsense Playa del Carmen travel guide!
The Best No-nonsense Playa del Carmen Travel Guide
Transportation in and around Playa del Carmen
How to Get to Playa del Carmen from the Airport
Transportation to and from the airport is going to be expensive, but it doesn’t have to feel like you got robbed.
On a bus – Purchase an ADO ticket beforehand. This was our preferred transportation method, especially in terms of price. The price between the airport and Playa del Carmen is 216 Mexican pesos, or about 10 dollars. If you want to save some money, its a little cheaper to take a bus from the airport to Cancun and then from Cancun to Playa del Carmen, but you only save about 60 mxn and it can take a lot longer.
Taxi – at the airport, the taxi fare to Playa del Carmen goes between 560-800 mxn, and even more if you pay in dollars ($50 or more). If you need to go to another terminal, taxis will offer you 15 dollar rides between terminals. This is an absolute scam, but some may need to pay it due to luggage and the heat. But just for you to know, the terminals are walking distance apart.
Rental Car – renting a car can definitely be an option, but we thought it would be too much of a hassle. You have to find a company you can trust not to charge additional fees and fine you for false intricacies. Then there’s the possibility of getting randomly stopped by the police, which you never want happening in Mexico. Traveling on a bus or taxi is so much more relaxing.
The Art of Negotiation
NEVER get in a taxi without agreeing upon a price to your destination beforehand. The taxis in Playa del Carmen don’t have meters because they have fixed prices between locations. If you want to simply get on a taxi without too must research, just ask the driver if they’ll take you to your destination for 40-60 mxn. Almost all destinations within Playa del Carmen should cost that much.
If you’re in a touristy area or grab a taxi that’s parked outside a bus station or mall, it’ll cost more because there is a tourist fare that applies (it makes rides cost 100-120 mxn). To keep from having to pay this fee, just grab a taxi a little way from the touristy area. Always pay in Mexican pesos. If you try to pay in dollars, the drivers will charge WAY more.
Is Playa del Carmen Safe?
Yes, Playa del Carmen is safe, especially for tourists. However, like most cities in the world, there are places you simply should not go and people looking to take advantage of anyone who may be an easy target. Here are some tips to stay safe in Playa del Carmen:
Don’t get in a taxi that stopped for you, especially if its late at night or you’re drunk. Make sure you signaled them down and then negotiate a proper price before getting in and heading to your destination. Also, don’t get in a taxi late at night alone, and especially not in the front seat.
Where there are drugs, there are cartels and trouble. So say no to drugs.
Always keep an eye on your drink, because spiking happens all too often.
The worst time for hurricanes is October and November, so possibly avoid visiting during those months.
What to Do!
Of course, there’s too much to do in Playa del Carmen for a blog post, but this is our take on it!
Visit One of the Xcaret Parks
We chose to visit Xel Ha (pronounced Chel Ha) because their slogan was “all you can eat, drink, and snorkel.” I’ve hardly ever heard a better phrase. Truth be told, I was a bit disappointed when we read we had to snorkel with life jackets on at all times. We still went, and we had a fantastic time – we even saw some enormous sting rays. We were in the water for hours upon hours, and when we weren’t, we enjoyed way to much food and beverages. This was both of our first ever all-inclusive type of experience, and it was a lot of fun.
Snorkel with Whale Sharks
This is a typical activity off of Isla Mujeres, and we won’t hide the fact that there were a lot of people. We would recommend choosing a date at either the beginning or end of whale season, when it isn’t vacation season (whale shark season is May to September, but the peak is July and August). We went with Ocean Tours, and they have a great operation. You only jump in the water when the captain spots a whale shark and they position the boat for the shark to be swimming straight towards you. Then, you swim with the shark a few minutes.
Even though your group will be a max of 10 people, there are many boats on site. Each boat is only allowed one couple in the water at a time. Basic snorkeling skills would be recommended to enjoy this fully. If you’re not familiarized with snorkeling, you’ll be worrying more about breathing, floating and swimming rather than gazing at this majestic creature. We also saw some dolphins, and you can sometimes see manta rays, turtles and marlins if you’re extremely lucky. Despite the amount of people with you and having to wear a life jacket at all times, the activity was worth it.
Scuba Dive in the Cenotes
Cenotes, or sinkholes, are one of the things that make Playa del Carmen and the state of Quintana Roo unique. And swimming on their surface or just seeing their beauty from outside is nothing compare to being inside and under them! We have been diving for over 10 years and had never seen anything like this. It’s magical – you can see the different layers of fresh water and salt water, and the illusion it creates is mind blowing. After seeing this, it’s easy to understand how a beach in Bikini Bottom is possible! That’s without mentioning the rays of light that come in from the jungle above (they make the craziest blue and green colors), ‘architecture’ of the caverns, coral fossils and perfectly cool water.
Luis de la Fuente a.k.a. ‘El Nono’ was our Argentinian guide for this trip and he did an amazing job. It was just us two and him, not a big group. He’s fun and, most importantly, made sure we had superbly safe dives. You can see his contact info by clicking here!
Eat at the Local Taquerías (food tips)
Even though 5ta Avenida (a touristy pedestrian road with restaurants and shops) has amazing restaurants, we really recommend eating at other taquerias around the city. If you see carne al pastor hanging on the outside, you are set for a good meal. I marked a bunch of restaurants, mostly taquerias, on the map below! The small taqueria right on the corner outside of the ADO downtown was amazing!
In terms of food, we’ve hardly ever been happier. One of our motivations to go to Mexico was food! Always looking to stay within our budget, we stayed away from touristy areas, and it actually made the experience better. You can get the same Mexican food only 5 blocks from 5ta Avenida for half or even a third of the price, and it’s much more authentic. Our favorite meals during our trip were tacos (al pastor and chorizo), gringas, queso fundido, mole and mojitos!
What We Missed
Visit Chichen Itza. It’s one of the seven wonders of the world. You can go see a very ancient city, which includes a pyramid and the arena where the Maya used to play their ball game. We weren’t able to go, but if you love history and cultural places like this, you won’t want to miss out.
We will also be back to discover more climbing at the Cenotes. From some research we did before traveling, we noticed there is some great outdoor bouldering close to Playa del Carmen. Our trip ended up including more diving than climbing, but we will be back (hopefully during the winter) to climb. If you’re interested in this activity, we suggest you reach out and go to the climbing gym in Cancun called Boulder Corp. The only climbing we did was one day at this gym and it was spectacular!
Is this the best no-nonsense Playa del Carmen travel guide or what? But in all seriousness, I hope it was useful, and let us know if you have any other questions. We’d love to help!
Zipaquirá is a town north of Bogotá known for its Salt Cathedral (more on that below!). We also know it as a great place to climb and bike! If you want to walk around and get to know the place or just do activities nearby, a visit is surely worth your while. This is how to get to Zipaquirá!
(See a map to get to Zipaquiráfrom Bogotá at the end of this post!)
In Public Transportation:
First off, you need to get to Portal del Norte, where a lot of buses exit the city towards smaller towns to the north. It’s right on the Autopista (main highway), so you can get there on a taxi or on a Transmilenio (take pretty much any ‘B’ route, but especially B74, B75 and B13).
Take a bus straight to Zipaquirá at Platform 2, South zone. Look for buses that say “Zipa.” The ride takes about 1 hour.
In a Car:
With a GPS: look for “Zipaquira” on Google Maps or Waze and follow the instructions.
Without a GPS:
Exit Bogota headed north. Keep going, passing a toll, until you get to a bridge.
Once at the bridge, do not cross the bridge. Keep right to go under it towards Chia.
Right before Chia, you’ll get to another bridge. Go up the bridge, staying on the right to begin heading to Zipaquirá, and keep going that way.
When you see a Homecenter, you’ll soon see a sign saying Zipaquirá is to the right. Go right shortly afterwards.
When you get to yet another bridge, stay right following the signs to Zipaquirá and you’ll be there within a few minutes.
What to Do at Zipaquirá
Visit the Salt Cathedral
You may be asking yourself, “Is this a Cathedral made of salt?” Well, no. The Salt Cathedral is a Cathedral deep inside a salt mine right outside of Zipaquirá. Actually, it’s a very touristy attraction, but it is absolutely worth it. You get started walking into the dark salt mine, and it’s a treat from the start. My favorite part of walking inside is looking down into enormous black pits where you can spot workers continuing to mine salt in the most magnificent caverns I’ve ever seen. Of course, there’s also the Cathedral, which is pretty cool, but the real attraction is simply being inside such a huge, ancient mine. You can book tours here. There’s also a climbing wall right outside the mine! That takes us to the next point.
Climb
There’s a cliffside close to Zipaquirá that’s perfect for climbers of all levels! Access to Rocas del Abra is extremely easy and it has enough routes for a whole lot of sport climbing. I marked the spot on the map below. Make sure you pay before you enter and take care of the place. Access here has been blocked before by locals, so please make sure you don’t ruin everyone’s fun.
Bike
Zipaquirá is very hilly, one might even say mountainous, so it has cycling routes in every direction. Our favorite goes up to Páramo de Guerrero, and it’s a gorgeous ride the whole way. You can read about that ride here. Otherwise, we encourage you to explore Zipaquirá and its surrounding towns on a bike!
Walk around Town
If you’ve been to cities and towns in Colombia, you’ve probably realized every one of them has one, if not multiple plazas. Zipaquirá is one of those with multiple plazas. Walking through Zipaquirá is a lot of fun. You can see all the plazas, eat a whole bunch of typical food and visit museums (or so we’ve heard – we don’t love museums).
Some Things to Know
There is one toll from Bogota to Zipaquirá and none on the way back.
Now that you know how to get to Zipaquirá, definitely do so! There’s lots to do in the town and close by!
For some reason, spending a vacation at a destination with no road access is utterly exciting. When it comes to Capurganá, you get that feeling of being isolated from the world in an exotic area while having the accomodations you’d expect from an area that receives a good few tourists. Do keep in mind, Capurganá is not a luxurious destination, but will get you the rest you need. This is one of Colombia’s most special destinations, so I’m here to let you know how to get to Capurganá and what to do while you’re there!
How to Get to Capurganá (From Quickest to Most Adventurous)
See a map of the area at the end of this post!
1. Medellín – Capurganá
First, get to Medellín and head to Aeropuerto Olaya Herrera, which is the small airport in the middle of the city, not the international airport up in the mountains. From there, you’ll have to hire a charter service to fly to your destination: Searca or Tac.
2. Medellín – Acandí – Capurganá
From the Olaya Herrera Airport, ride a plane (usually a Grupo San Germán service, and about COP $330,000 or USD $100) to Acandí. From there, you’ll have to ride a boat for half an hour to your destination. The boat leaves at about 1 p.m. and the ride costs COP $20,000.
3. Monteria – Necoclí – Capurganá
Take a flight to Monteria and, from there, take a taxi to Necoclí for COP $30,000 per person (possibly more depending on the amount of people in the taxi).The ride is about 2.5 hours. Afterwards, you’ll have to ride a boat from Necoclí to Capurgana, which leaves every day at 8 a.m., costs $70,000 COP and takes 1.5 hours.
4. Panama City – Puerto Obaldia – Capurganá
Fly from Panama City to Puerto Obaldia via Air Panama. From Puerto Obaldia, take a 30 minute boat ride straight to Capurgana for USD $20.
5. Bogotá – Apartado – Turbo – Capurganá
Fly on Satena to Apartado from Bogotá. In Apartado, take a taxi (1 hour, COP $40,000 one way) to Turbo. From Turbo, take a 2.5 hour boat ride for COP $75,000. The boat leaves in the morning, between 8 and 9 a.m.
6. Medellín – Turbo – Capurganá
Take a bus from the Northern Bus Terminal of Medellin to Turbo (an 8 hour ride for COP $60,000 one way). From Turbo, take a 2.5 hour boat ride for COP $75,000. The boat leaves in the morning, between 8 and 9 a.m.
What to Do in Capurganá:
Get Lost in Nature
Well, don’t actually get lost, but definitely visit the parks and reserves in the area! Right out of Capurganá, you can walk to Reserva Natural El Cielo, which is a Natural Reserve with some majestic hikes to water falls. Heading towards Sapzurro and further towards Panama, you can also hike 45 minutes to “Pool of the Gods” and La Coquerita, two areas with natural pools right by the ocean.
See Baby Sea Turtles
During April and May, sea turtles crawl onto the beaches to lay their eggs, which hatch in September. If you’re lucky, you can witness either of these beautiful events. It’s a privilege to watch!
Scuba Dive
Capurganá’s waters are home to a spectacular, practically untouched coral reef. There are 24 dive sites in the area, which means more than enough for one wee vacation. Give scuba diving a try! The best dive center in Capurganá is Dive and Green.
Sail to the San Blas Islands
These islands are one of Panama’s golden destinations. It’s actually a group of 365 islands, of which only a few are populated. Needless to say, they are absolutely gorgeous. I recommend, if you want to go from Capurgana, hiring a tour so your entry into Panama goes totally smoothly, since they’ll know the ins and outs of getting tourists to San Blas Islands.
Where to Stay:
I’ll let you do most of the research, but I recommend you check out Los Robles Capurganá, Oleajes Capurganá, Bahia Lodge, Hotel Calypso Capurganá and the many options there are on AirBnB.
Some Things to Know:
Take cash, because there are no banks or ATMs in Capurganá.
The best time of the year to travel here is April to November.
If you’ve looked into what to do in Bogota, you’ve surely heard of Monserrate. From downtown Bogota, just look up to the mountains and it’ll be there with its imposing cathedral. Monserrate is a very well-known destination, and it is easy to reach! There have been some changes due to the COVID-19 pandemic, but everything is now open to the public. Keep reading to learn how to get to Monserrate post-COVID-19.
*The map to get to Monserrate is at the end of this post!
In Public Transportation:
(we recommend you arrive in public transportation because finding parking can be complicated)
First, get to the Las Aguas Transmilenio Station. The routes that pass through this station are J23, J70 and J74.
Exit the station headed north (with the mountains on your right) and then walk towards the mountains of Calle 21 or 22. You’ll pass Universidad de los Andes and Quinta de Bolivar.
Once you get to the Ticket Office for the Funicular and Cable Cars, you have three options to get up to the cathedral – walking or on the Funicular or Cable Car. If you’re going to walk, the path is a little to the left (north) of the ticket office. Entry is free.
In a Car:
With a GPS: look for “Taquilla Funicular Monserrate, Bogotá” on Google Maps or Waze and follow the instructions. You can park in front of the building or in the area.
Without a GPS:
What is important here is getting to the Circunvalar, the road that borders Bogota’s eastern mountains. You can get on this road lots of ways, but the easiest is Calle 26. Once on the road, head south until you hit Calle 21, where you’ll find the ticket office for Monserrate.
You can park in front of the ticket office or in other parking lots close to downtown.
From the ticket office, you can get up to Monserrate walking or on the funicular or cable car. The trailhead in less than a block north from the ticket office.
There are 2 restaurants on the mountain top. Eating up there on Monserrate is definitely a fun experience. Both restaurants serve delicious Colombian and international food starting at about $25,000 Colombian pesos ($10 dollars). Currently, since the coronavirus pandemic, you need to make a reservation to eat here. Make your reservation here!
Hike
We definitely recommend hiking up to Cerro de Monserrate. You can enjoy the landscape all the way up and get some good exercise done. Then, it’s definitely worth heading down on the funicular or cable car, since they’re also fun experiences. Before hiking, officials will have you fill out a form, and access to the trail is free. You can start the hike from 7:00 a.m. to 1:00 p.m.
Cable Cars and Funicular
If the 1-hour walk doesn’t sound like fun, you can take the cable cars or funicular. These comfortable trips are fun because you can watch Bogota get smaller and smaller as you slowly rise hundreds of meters. From Monday to Saturday, a one-way trip costs $13,000 pesos and round-trip costs $22,000 (about US $4 and $6). On Sundays, one way costs $7,500 and round-trip is $13,000 pesos (about US $2.5 and $4).
Watch the Sunset
The best part about Monserrate is the landscape! Truth is, people may visit it to see the cathedral or for the restaurants, but we’ve been there for the views. The sun just so happens to set right over Bogota as you watch from Monserrate, giving tourists a unique experience. The best way to do it is watch the sunset and then see the city light up with life and color. It’s actually a very beautiful experience!
Some Things to Know:
Monserrate’s hours are as follows: Monday and Wednesday from 6:30 a.m. to 6:00 p.m., Tuesday closed, Thursday to Saturday from 6:30 a.m. to 10:00 p.m. and Sundays from 6:30 a.m. to 5:00 p.m.
Monserrate will be closed on Tuesdays for maintenance.
All of Monserrate’s services are currently available after the COVID pandemic, although with social distancing measures and rules. It’s actually much more organized than before.
It’s no longer mandatory to wear a mask!
Pets are not allowed.
If you plan on paying with cash, the rule is you need to pay the exact amount.
Now that you know how to get to Monserrate post-COVID-19, there’s no use waiting anymore. Let us know how it goes!
Deep in the mountains of Santander, about 2 hours from Bucaramanga, there is our friend, Silvio Bejarano. His vision, quite literally, since you can see it from his front door, is a cliff-side with incredible climbing potential. He moved there by himself to launch his hostal, La Antigua Floresta, and develop the climbing nearby. This place is worth visiting because it is going to be big in the climbing community. It already has some spectacular climbs, without even scratching the surface. Plus, out there you really are far from civilization, so it’s a great place to take a deep breath of nature and rest. Read on to get to know La Antigua Floresta and the new climbing area close to Bucaramanga and Tona!
(Find a map to get to La Antigua Floresta from Bucaramanga at the end of this blog post!)
Traveling on Colombia’s bus system is usually easy and inexpensive, but getting to La Antigua Floresta is quite complicated, so we recommend getting there in a car or motorcycle. If you need transportation from Bucaramanga, you can contact Silvio and he’ll set it up for you (more on that below).
With a GPS: look up “La Antigua Floresta, Tona, Santander” on Google Maps or Waze and follow the directions. Park your car at an entrance to a path on the road, shortly after passing “El Gramal” (I marked the spot on the map below). Someone will meet you there for the hike up to the hostel.
Without a GPS:
Exit downtown Bucaramanga on the road to Cúcuta from Megamall. At kilometer 18, take the second exit on the roundabout headed towards Tona.
When you enter the town of Tona, keep going straight, passing the plaza. Head up the road until “El Gramal.” This is the last place you can buy groceries. We recommend you buy them here to support the local economy!
Continue 10 minutes until you find the entrance to the hostal on a wide curve (marked on the map). You can leave your car inside the fence.
From here, you have a 30-40 minute hike left to get to La Antigua Floresta!
What to Do at La Antigua Floresta
Rock Climb!
At the time we visited in October, 2020, there were 17 routes, 11 in one climbing area and 6 in another. All were slabby, but we watched as Silvio bolted a 3-bolt roof with some crazy moves. Further up the cliff (on the second pitch, which you can climb up to on a via ferrata) are several undeveloped climbing areas. There’s everything from insane, layered overhangs to long-ass cracks to slabs waiting to be bolted, and surely of every climbing level. This place is going to have a lot of classic climbs, so it’s worth a visit… and if you can contribute just a tiny bit to developing it by simply visiting and having a great time, I’m sure our buddy Silvio Bejarano would greatly appreciate that.
Hike Along the Whole Edge of the Middle of the Cliff
One of the days we visited Silvio, he showed us one of the hikes on which he plans to take people. You start off hiking up to the first climbing area and along the edge of the cliff where there’s a via ferrata to climb up to a ledge in the middle of the cliff. This ledge spans the entire length of the cliff. From there, you keep hiking all the way up through valleys and boulder fields as you watch the clouds roll in and out of the panorama. The whole way, you have incredible (potential) climbs above your head. It was an 8 hour hike with lunch stop and everything, and worth every moment!
Get in the River
It will be cold! But in a place with so many rivers and watering holes, you just have to take advantage of them. Pretty much every hike runs across a river or creek, so your options are extensive. Lale actually got into the pool from where La Antigua Floresta gets its water and helped clear the pipe of leaves (everyone gets their water from the rivers here, since there is no piping system, and it’s absolutely drinkable).
Pick Andean Blueberries
There are scores of Andean Blueberry plants behind La Antigua Floresta. During a chill day, there’s nothing quite like picking blueberries and then making jelly, dessert or pancakes with them.
You can Apply to Volunteer
As of now, La Antigua Floresta has a ways to go. Silvio is looking to make it a proper hostel for climbers and non-climbers alike, with a capacity to host lots of people and make them feel like they’re at home. If you’re looking to get cheaper lodging, want to get your hands dirty or would like to help develop this upcoming climbing area, we suggest you contact the place and see what you can set up! (Contact info below).
Eat. A lot.
One thing La Antigua Floresta has had from the start is a fully equipped kitchen. They even have one of those industrial ovens with four doors! We made some delicacies while we were there: French bread, lasagna, pizza, cinnamon rolls, some delicious oatmeal and pancakes with Andean blueberries and more. Silvio is a great chef, or you can pay for cooking space. You’ll have to hike in with all your groceries, so choose wisely. Still, I’d say a difficult hike is worth it for a full belly at all times.
Biosafety
The hostel has important biosafety protocols for everyone’s safety. You have to make a reservation beforehand, fill out a Health Statement and Liability Exemption Form and disinfect yourself and your belongings upon arrival. The maximum number of climbers allowed during the pilot program is 8 climbers in the climbing area.
Some Things to Know
To contact Silvio directly, you can call or WhatsApp him at (321) 389-9107. You can also message him on Instagram on La Antigua Floresta or Escalada Tona‘s pages. Drop them a follow too to support this venture!
Staying at La Antigua Floresta costs $25,000 pesos per day.
You can rent all sorts of camping and climbing gear.
Low or old cars might have trouble on the last stretch of the journey up. If you want to play it safe, you can take the same road from above, though it is a longer trip.
Before getting to the hostel, you have to hike a 1.5 km path from the road. We highly recommend taking luggage with which you can hike (learn from our mistake)!
As of October, 2020, there are 11 climbing routes in one climbing area and 6 in the other. Routes are being opened as often as possible, but nuts and bolts are expensive, so the endeavor may be slow at times.
There is ONE toll from Bucaramanga to La Antigua Floresta, and none on the way back.
The cell service that connects best in this area is Claro.
We truly hope this helps make up your mind to visit! It’s a new climbing area close to Bucaramanga, and its going to be huge. If you’ve been wondering where to climb in Colombia or Santander, this is as good a place as any. Let us know if you do!
